We have classic standing paneling with cover battens. Everything is delightfully painted red from the 60s. Since then, I don't think it has received much love. Of course, it's a bit more brittle and burned on the sides the sun hits. Not to mention that the paint can be brushed off down to bare wood with a piazava.
But do you have to replace it? Replacing it doesn't appeal for a second. Will it really be better, and if so, in what way?
I'm thinking that brushing it clean, oiling, and painting should suffice, and then touching it up again in another 8-10 years.
No, why would you change the panel? You don't need to change the panel just because it's old. If any part is rotten, you can replace that part, meaning splice in a new section. That's how it was done in the past. And it works now too.
Not to mention that the paint can be brushed off down to bare wood with a piasava.
This is completely normal for slamfärg/faluröd and doesn't imply that the paint is old/bad in any way.
Note that when it is painted with slamfärg, you cannot paint over it with any other paint unless you strip it down completely to bare wood. So forget about oiling, etc. It's brushing and a new coat of falu rödfärg that is needed.
And the panel doesn't need to be replaced unless you have rotting damage or similar.
P.s. don't be cheap and buy a substandard version; instead, buy a paint of good quality.
Exterior panels are usually replaced based on appearance. As long as water does not seep in and damage the underlying structure, you do not need to replace them.
You prime with falurödfärg but dilute it with 10-20% water when you use it as a base. Or take the opportunity to change color when it's easy to get bare wood if you want (I'm not a fan of slamfärg)
Or take the opportunity to change color when it's easy to get down to bare wood if you want (I am not a fan of slamfärg)
It is difficult to make a change in the paint system work well. Falupigment is an issue, hard to brush away everything sufficiently well.
Then it's not uncommon for Falu red paint to be slightly linseed oil-reinforced, and it has probably absorbed into the wood now in such a case and will cause linseed blisters if you paint over with acrylic.
An alkyd oil paint might work, but no one will take responsibility for it working.
Falurödfärg probably contains some linseed oil, so that you could possibly oil the driest parts with. I would avoid base oil for modern paint systems.
No, don't oil anything, it will be far too much oil then. Red paint can sometimes be a bit linseed oil-reinforced, with a few percent linseed oil and maybe up to 10% for those who feel bold and daring. And then you start risking problems with linseed oil blisters and paint peeling and such.
So don't oil anything beforehand, but possibly mix in a few percent linseed oil in the paint. I reinforced mine a bit during the last painting with the hope that the pigment would become more stable, not washed out as easily by the rain, it didn't work as well as I had hoped.
Furthermore, I am far from a real expert on traditional Swedish paint (although I chose it myself, but I probably regret it a bit too).
I hope someone really knowledgeable can jump into the thread and give input, I know there are some here in the forum.
It is difficult to get a change of color system to work well. The Falupigment is a problem, hard to manage to brush it away sufficiently.
Then, it's not uncommon for Falu red paint to be slightly linseed oil-reinforced, and it may now be sitting in the wood and will cause linseed oil blisters if you paint over it with acrylic.
An alkyd oil paint might work, but no one will take any responsibility for it working.
It is often said that the pain threshold is at 7% linolja. But the original is probably preferable, i.e. completely without linolja, works better for repainting.
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Mikael_L said: