Is there anyone here who can link to a base mortar that I need? The kc base from weber costs 199kr.
Does anyone know of another one and can link it? It should be good.
 
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terjevigen
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H hans.p said:
[link]
Thanks for that
 
I have not laid any foundations for my walls, but I have used stone adhesive...
A cat sitting on top of a concrete block wall with visible rust stains, surrounded by greenery.

Now it is a bit blotchy here and there but joints are not visible...
Concrete wall with light stains beside a wooden deck and steps, surrounded by plants.
Wicker sofa by a planter with greenery, under a pergola with draped curtains, in a sunny garden setting.
Concrete angled wall with white flowering bushes in front, set in a sunny garden. Wheelbarrow in background, no visible mortar joints.
 
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Hammare&Spik
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anders07 anders07 said:
I haven't founded any of my walls, but I've used stone glue...
[image]

Now it's a bit patchy here and there but the joints aren't visible...
[image]
[image]
[image]
Really nice! Was it difficult to get it straight and nice in the 90-degree angles? Where the ceiling meets the wall?

Perhaps you had an angle trowel?
 
  • Garden with concrete planter and shrubs, highlighting 90-degree angles where the wall meets the ground, encircled in red in sunny backyard.
I have those 90-degree metal corners installed under the plaster... Close-up of a plastered corner with metal edge slightly exposed due to wear, showing the 90-degree metal corner beneath the plaster.

Hard to get a picture, but about halfway there you can see that it's scraped off a bit and the metal corner is sticking out a little.
 
anders07 anders07 said:
I have such 90-degree metal corners embedded under the plaster... [image]

Hard to get a picture, but roughly in the middle there you can see that it's been scuffed a bit and the metal corner sticks out a little.
Oh right, you can see a bit of that there.
That was smart! The job must have gotten much easier 😀
 
Hammare&Spik Hammare&Spik said:
Ajuste, you can see a bit of it there.
That was smart! The job must have become much easier 😀
Yes, much easier... I also used metal screeding tracks and went with 40 cm wide tracks.
I removed the tracks fairly early and added some new plaster before I went over everything again.

I somewhat regret not smoothing (or whatever it's called) to get a finer surface.
 
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anders07 anders07 said:
Yes, much simpler... I also used metal render trails and went with 40 cm wide tracks.
I removed the trails fairly early and added a bit of new render before going over everything again.

I regret not smoothing (or whatever it's called) for a finer surface.
You've done a great job! Bravo 👏🏽
One question... Did you use primer on the top of the wall too, or did you just render there?
 
Hammare&Spik Hammare&Spik said:
You've done a great job! Bravo 👏🏽
A question... Did you use primer on the top of the wall too or did you just plaster there?
Thanks, no, just plaster there too...
 
I built an annex house with insulated lecablock (both foundation and walls) over 20 years ago. Plastered with base plaster and plaster according to Finja's instructions, but only with one layer of plaster. Primed and painted with white silicate paint. Still looks good. No grid patterns even after long rainy periods. When I drive around the region, I often see masonry houses where all the joints are clearly visible even long after the last rain. The plaster surely sticks well to the light expanded clay aggregate, but it doesn't look nice. Now I'm building on the main house, again with insulation blocks. I would never plaster without base plaster. It is mercilessly revealed at the latest a few years after. But the base plaster itself I apply quite carelessly and unevenly. I'm just careful to ensure the joints are properly covered.
 
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OcceL and 1 other
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B Bilybianca said:
I built an annex house with insulated lecablocks (both foundation wall and walls) over 20 years ago. Plastered with primer and plaster according to Finja's instructions, but only with one layer of plaster. Primed and painted with white silicate paint.
Still looks good. No grid patterns even after long periods of rain.
When I drive around in the neighborhood, I often see masonry houses where all the joints are clearly visible even long after the last rain. The plaster is surely well attached to the lightweight concrete, but it doesn't look nice.
Now I'm adding to the main house, again with insulated blocks. I would never plaster without primer. It is mercilessly revealed at the latest a few years later.
But I apply the primer plaster rather carelessly and unevenly. I'm just careful that the joints are properly covered.
My walls have stood between 6 and 8 years and don't have any traces of joints in the plaster... As mentioned earlier, they are glued, and it may partly be due to that, since there aren't different "types of mortar" behind.
 
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stealing the thread a bit with a question.. I started plastering a wall for my greenhouse yesterday today I see traces of the joints despite priming with priming mortar A.. is it perhaps something that will disappear when it has fully set?
 
D
O OcceL said:
stealing the thread a bit with a question.. I started plastering a wall for my greenhouse yesterday. Today I see traces of the joints despite priming with Grundning bruk A.. is that something that might disappear once it has fully set?
It is completely normal, the plaster is thicker at the joints.
 
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OcceL
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Hi, how long do you need to wait after priming before you start applying plaster do you think?
 
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