Miscellaneous B(u)ilding Questions

[Gonate]

1. Which screws should be used for 2-inch planks (would be good if they can withstand both saltwater and water and everything,,)
2. Where can one buy 45x170 or 195 with the best impregnation? (NTR-A? since they will have contact with water all year round, a lot of toxins are required)
3. (SEE IMAGE) Are there any "rules of thumb" for how much "overhang" you can have (out towards the lake- without it collapsing)
4. Are post anchors the best option to hold up the structure?
5. Are there any good methods to "contour cut" the planks/beams to the shape of the rock? or is it just done randomly
6. Rough-sawn planks..? is it better than planed and what is the price difference?

 

[mycke_nu]

To begin with another perspective: Looks like a construction that the ice can easily grip. How is it attached to the rock?

 

[Roger Spontare]

He writes salt water, maybe it never becomes ice where he has the dock?

 

[79:an]

1. What screws should be used for 2-inch planks (it would be good if they withstand both saltwater and water and everything,,)
2. Where can you buy 45x170 or 195 with the best impregnation? (NTR-A? since they will have contact with water all year round, a lot of toxins are required)

I think you should try to get a type of wood called NTR-M (marine) which is made for contact with water, it's probably a special order item. Otherwise, I've read somewhere that untreated aspen wood should be used in saltwater, I believe they use it for constructions in and around saltwater quite extensively in Norway.

 

[mycke_nu]

He writes salt water, maybe it never becomes ice where he has the dock?

Probably kollosalt salt in that case.

 

[Gonate]

The same "järn" that holds up the rear brackets; (SEE PHOTOs) ...
Where could one order "marine" impregnation? Of course, I want it as local and cheap as possible (Stockholm)
Not so much ice nowadays, but before I can imagine it was close a few times... (Not there in the winter)

 

[anaitis]

1. Which screw should be used for 2-inch planks (would be good if they withstand both saltwater and water and everything...)
2. Where can you buy 45x170 or 195 with the best impregnation? (NTR-A? since they will be in contact with water year-round, a lot of treatment is required)
3. (SEE IMAGE) Are there any "rules of thumb" for how much "overhang" you can have (out towards the lake - without it falling down)
4. Are post supports the best option to hold up the construction?
5. Are there any good methods to "cut to shape" the planks/beams to match the rock's form, or do you just go by guesswork?
6. Rough-sawn planks...? is that better than planed, and what is the price difference?

1. Stainless steel (or galvanized) hex head screw or carriage bolt. At least 8 mm, preferably 10 mm.
3. No, this requires a calculation.
4. I would personally choose post supports.
5. Cut a template from cardboard.
6. I would choose planed - want to walk barefoot in the summer.

 

[mycke_nu]

Vote for stainless steel screws, expensive but it lasts. If you choose galvanized, it should be hot-dip galvanized, that is, not electro-galvanized.

 

[Gonate]

Okay.. sounds good.. Is a 25 mm hole in the rock sufficient if the irons (post shoes) are 17 mm in diameter... anchor mass/concrete.. what should be used in these conditions?

 

[79:an]

The same "järn" that holds up the rear joists; (SEE PICTURES) ...
Where could one order "marin" impregnation? Of course, I want it as local and cheap as possible (Stockholm)
QUOTE]

Where in Stockholm it is available and cheap I don't know, but here are some links to check out:

[link]
[link]

 

[Gonate]

It has now also turned out that the water surface has unfortunately risen so that the lower irons are a bit below. I would prefer not to move back (and thus raise everything), does anyone know how to move the water when casting?

 

[MathiasS]

Is this in the Baltic Sea? I suspect you need to think a bit about the height of this construction. Last winter, for example, we had extremely high water levels, and with a bit of bad luck, it freezes during such a period. If you have a dock that gets caught in the ice, it doesn't matter how you anchor it to the rock - it goes out with the ice anyway....

 

[Gonate]

In the Baltic Sea yes, but it has been there for,, well over 25 years and held up well until now at the end...

 

[anaitis]

It has now also been shown that the water surface has unfortunately risen so that the lower irons are a bit submerged. Prefer not to move back (and thereby raise everything), does anyone know how to move the water when casting?

Do an underwater casting!
First, make a tight (reasonably) mold. Well secured!
Then cast via a pipe that discharges at the bottom of the mold. You fill up the concrete through the pipe.
The pipe is then slowly pulled upwards as the concrete surface rises.
The pipe should always be under the concrete surface.
The water that was originally in the mold is pushed upwards when you fill up the concrete.
The concrete should have a higher cement content than for regular castings.

 

[Gonate]

hmm? sounds pretty difficult for a "beginner" if you're making a form anyway, you might as well make a form and then seal it with silicone or something and then remove the water.. but even that will be difficult as the rock is very slanted and angular and d'Ant.