Planning to put up an interior wall to create an extra children's room. I'll have OSB and drywall on both sides but am considering the studs. Initially, I thought of using 45x70, but then I heard that 45x45 would be sufficient. But how do you handle the electrical? It feels a bit weak to drill a hole for it in a 45x45, not much would be left then. How have others done it who have built with 45x45?
It works. The studs are significantly reinforced by the OSB board.
Great, thanks!D Daniel 109 said:
Then I will probably go with that. What spacing (cc) should I use? I guess tighter than 60?
As you can understand, I'm a rookie at this....
Glue is not needed. Insert insulation into the wall.
I have an interior wall built with 45x45 studs with OSB and gypsum on both sides. That wall is solid and good. You can notice a difference compared to the bathroom wall, which is 45x70 on 45 cc with 15mm ply, but it doesn't feel flimsy or wobbling. As long as you screw the OSB as you should, no glue is needed. Also, use proper 13mm gypsum and not the 6mm variant. That affects the rigidity as well.
What kind of glue should I use? Something special? Do I put it on the sides of the studs before I lift up the OSB and screw it in place, or how should I proceed?M maverik said:There is a big difference in stability with glue on the studs. Whether it's needed is a matter of definitionsome are satisfied with an "ok" final result, while others want it perfect.
What does "as you're supposed to" mean? Specific spacing between the screws or anything else I should consider?Janus82 said:
A Annalundqvist said:
By the way, what happens if the OSB "swells" if it's glued? i.e. movement due to moisture/temperature?? But it's still attached even if it's screwed, I think in any case… ??M maverik said:There is a big difference in stability with glue against the studs. Whether it's necessary is a matter of definition
M maverik said:
I was planning to have a sliding door recessed in the wall, so it becomes a bit difficult with insulation...D Daniel 109 said:
I have always screwed my boards (both OSB and gypsum) with centers of about 20-30 cm. I quickly googled and saw that Gunnebo claims that according to Hus AMA, you should screw OSB with 15cm centers on the edges and 30cm centers in the middle of the board. I may have been a bit sloppy before, but the house still stands.A Annalundqvist said:
I might be saved by using 55mm gypsum screws that go through the OSB and attach to the stud.
You will not get a pocket frame in a 45mm wall. I have a sliding door to the kitchen and if I remember correctly, it requires 70-studs in the wall for it to work.R Robin Wahlman said:
Oh thanks for the answer!! So I need 45x70 studs and a door frame for a wall width of 122 if I want to fit OSB and drywall on both sides? Since there is no insulation there, I think it would be weak with just drywall, but I might be wrong?I have always screwed my boards (both OSB and drywall) with a spacing of about 20-30 cm. I just quickly googled and saw that Gunnebo claims that according to Hus AMA, OSB should be screwed with a spacing of 15 cm on the edges and 30 cm in the middle of the board. I may have been a bit careless before, but the house is still standing.
I might be saved by using 55mm drywall screws that go through the OSB and secure into the studs.
You won't be able to fit a pocket frame in a 45mm wall. I have a sliding door to the kitchen, and if I recall correctly, you need 70mm studs in the wall for it to work.
I think, with an emphasis on *think*, that you should choose a pocket frame for a wall width of 96mm. The pocket frame I used accounted for attaching only one plasterboard on the outside of the pocket frame, and it is with this plasterboard that the finished measurement becomes 96mm.
I wanted to use a plywood board first to have the option to mount something on the wall where the door is hidden, even if it means using short screws. Additionally, the pocket frame is a bit flimsy, so it's nice to reinforce it with a plywood board at the bottom. When doing it this way, you need to add the width of the outermost plasterboards to the specified thickness of the frame, resulting in 96+13+13=122.
Check the installation instructions for the pocket frame you want to buy and think a bit about how it's constructed. I believe that the frame which is 122mm thick only has more air beside the door and doesn't offer better opportunities to mount an extra wooden board before the plasterboard. But I could be wrong.
I wanted to use a plywood board first to have the option to mount something on the wall where the door is hidden, even if it means using short screws. Additionally, the pocket frame is a bit flimsy, so it's nice to reinforce it with a plywood board at the bottom. When doing it this way, you need to add the width of the outermost plasterboards to the specified thickness of the frame, resulting in 96+13+13=122.
Check the installation instructions for the pocket frame you want to buy and think a bit about how it's constructed. I believe that the frame which is 122mm thick only has more air beside the door and doesn't offer better opportunities to mount an extra wooden board before the plasterboard. But I could be wrong.