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15 replies
cracks along the corner guards
I have put corner protectors on all the outer edges in two rooms that I am renovating.
But now it has cracked along the corner protectors in two places. (I haven't even painted the final coat)
I fastened them with some screws and then spackled over them.
Should you also need to put paper tape there?
You can see the crack along the inner edge of the corner protector all the way through the picture.
But now it has cracked along the corner protectors in two places. (I haven't even painted the final coat)
I fastened them with some screws and then spackled over them.
Should you also need to put paper tape there?
You can see the crack along the inner edge of the corner protector all the way through the picture.
but does it matter if the screw pulls.
because I read here on the forum someone who just putty on the metal profiles without anything else. attached the metal profile and puttied over it. the putty would thus also act as the "glue."
the screws I put in were long drywall screws but unfortunately only screwed through several layers of drywall so they didn't grip like in wood.
do you have any tips on what I should do.
the only thing I can think of is to knock off all the putty and glue on a paper strip and putty again.
because I read here on the forum someone who just putty on the metal profiles without anything else. attached the metal profile and puttied over it. the putty would thus also act as the "glue."
the screws I put in were long drywall screws but unfortunately only screwed through several layers of drywall so they didn't grip like in wood.
do you have any tips on what I should do.
the only thing I can think of is to knock off all the putty and glue on a paper strip and putty again.
Sounds tough,
I've also heard about that special tool. If you have plenty of time, you can drive in quite a few screws into the wood stud behind. That worked for me.
I remember having trouble getting the corner profile screws to grip in the wood when I had double plasterboard, but it worked.
What I think will be sufficient for you are long screws that reach into the wood stud.
You just have to screw into the existing profile without doing anything special with it. Then you just plaster over the new screw heads.
I'm not sure how close together to screw, but the closer, the better. I think I placed two screws per 10 cm on each wall. You could probably manage with double or triple that distance, but I didn't bother thinking too much when I put up the profile.
I've also heard about that special tool. If you have plenty of time, you can drive in quite a few screws into the wood stud behind. That worked for me.
I remember having trouble getting the corner profile screws to grip in the wood when I had double plasterboard, but it worked.
What I think will be sufficient for you are long screws that reach into the wood stud.
You just have to screw into the existing profile without doing anything special with it. Then you just plaster over the new screw heads.
I'm not sure how close together to screw, but the closer, the better. I think I placed two screws per 10 cm on each wall. You could probably manage with double or triple that distance, but I didn't bother thinking too much when I put up the profile.
Had the same problem in a room. The last few times I've installed corner protection, I've screwed it as tightly as the plasterboard is screwed (200-250mm) and it has worked very well. Of course, I tried to hit wood as much as possible.
okay. thanks for all the answers.
should have had them before I did it just
I've actually attached a lot of corner protectors and just taped them in place.
should have had them before I did it just
I've actually attached a lot of corner protectors and just taped them in place.
When embedding them, you should apply plaster on both sides of the drywall and then press the corner bead in place. A drywall joint compound is recommended. Then, plaster as usual. In my opinion, screws are the worst option. Another convenient way if you want to avoid buying the tool is to apply a bead of PL400 in the corner bead and press it in place.[email protected] said:but does it matter if the screw pulls.
because I read here on the forum someone who just plastered on the metal profiles without anything else. put on the metal profile and plastered over it. the plaster would thus act as the "glue" as well.
the screws I used were long drywall screws but unfortunately just screwed through several layers of drywall so they didn't hold like in wood.
do you have any tips on how I should do it.
the only thing I can think of is to remove all the plaster and glue on a paper strip and plaster again.
I actually tested with PL400. But I constantly needed to adjust the corner protector and that glue dried very quickly, which resulted in me having to pull it off again and taking the plaster with it too 
What exactly is a plaster filler? Is it a powder you mix with water? In what contexts is it otherwise used?
Ardex 828 used for filling wide depressions on gypsum or concrete, form-stable so it doesn't sink.[email protected] said:
can you use it when applying joint compound to paper tape as well?
okay. it might actually be better to use it than regular spackle. for the paper strip that is.
