Hi, thank you for all the answers. I have now bought 100 mm styrofoam and glued it together (with PL200 - thanks for the tip, it worked great) and clamped it in the stairwell. There was no sheet at all, not any felt either.
The indoor temperature has risen to 22 degrees (!). However, I've had the air heat pump and electric heaters on max and it's costing me. In the last week, I've averaged 200 kW/h per day!
Due to the enormous consumption, I've turned off the heaters and hope that the air heat pump can manage to maintain the temperature somewhat now that it's a bit milder outside (-14.8 according to the thermometer at the time of writing). The next step will be to mask the windows.
The indoor temperature has risen to 22 degrees (!). However, I've had the air heat pump and electric heaters on max and it's costing me. In the last week, I've averaged 200 kW/h per day!
Due to the enormous consumption, I've turned off the heaters and hope that the air heat pump can manage to maintain the temperature somewhat now that it's a bit milder outside (-14.8 according to the thermometer at the time of writing). The next step will be to mask the windows.
Then you should get one of those before you go bankrupt!Decamber said:
http://www.verktygsboden.se/?id=80193
gadu^: Why should you cover Styrofoam? Can the heat penetrate anyway, or is it for potential gaps that you should cover it?
kamilenski: That diesel heater can provide 30 kW of heat, and that wouldn't be too bad.
But how about the exhaust, can it be vented out with a hose, or do you have to endure the whole house smelling like a tractor?
I have calculated a bit on the electricity costs. We have consumed 5248 kW/h since we moved in mid-November. In November-December we averaged around 70 kW/h per day. Now that it has been cold, we've reached 200 kW/h per day. We have had six radiators running more or less constantly (set to max and I've never seen the thermostat turn off). The radiators have a combined nominal output of 5.3 kW. In one day, that becomes 127.2 kW/h.
Other big consumers are the water heater, heat pump, washing machine, dryer, dishwasher, coffee maker...... many little streams. But now we have turned off all the radiators except the bathroom's, which is at 600 W, where we have only turned down the thermostat.
kamilenski: That diesel heater can provide 30 kW of heat, and that wouldn't be too bad.
But how about the exhaust, can it be vented out with a hose, or do you have to endure the whole house smelling like a tractor?I have calculated a bit on the electricity costs. We have consumed 5248 kW/h since we moved in mid-November. In November-December we averaged around 70 kW/h per day. Now that it has been cold, we've reached 200 kW/h per day. We have had six radiators running more or less constantly (set to max and I've never seen the thermostat turn off). The radiators have a combined nominal output of 5.3 kW. In one day, that becomes 127.2 kW/h.
Other big consumers are the water heater, heat pump, washing machine, dryer, dishwasher, coffee maker...... many little streams. But now we have turned off all the radiators except the bathroom's, which is at 600 W, where we have only turned down the thermostat.
Now maybe you know something about TS that I don't know, but that wood is free is not true. You need to have TIME and ACCESS to timber. Otherwise, you buy pre-split wood, and it's not free.Tossegubbe said:73 kwh sounded very little to me? I assume you don't have a 50m2 house anyway
Interesting about the consumption. Living in a 75 sqm cottage. In November, we used around 350 kwh, i.e., just over 10 kwh per day. In December, just over 650 kwh, so about 20 kwh a day. It will be interesting to see for January then, it's been cold for a long time now.
It should be added that we burn a lot in the stove. It's difficult to calculate kwh for the wood though.
You can get one with 15kW. It has 100% combustion. Slight diesel smell--- yes a little. But it's good until you have sorted out the insulation.Decamber said:gadu^: Why should one cover the styrofoam? Can the heat penetrate anyway or is it for possible gaps that it should be covered?
kamilenski: That diesel heater can provide 30 kW of heat and that would not be unwelcome.
I have calculated a bit on the electricity costs. We have consumed 5248 kW/h since we moved in mid-November. In November-December, we averaged around 70 kW/h per day. Now that it has been cold, we have ended up at 200 kW/h per day.
We have had six radiators running more or less constantly (set to max and I have never seen the thermostat shut off). The radiators have a total rated power of 5.3 kW. In one day, that becomes 127.2 kW/h.
Other large consumers are the water heater, air source heat pump, washing machine, dryer, dishwasher, coffee maker...... many little streams. But now we have turned off all the radiators except the bathroom's which are at 600 W, there we have just turned down the thermostat.
kamilenski: 100% combustion sounds a bit so-so. Although possibly the remaining substances are negligible from a health point of view, considering that it will only be used for a short period. I'll consider it.
Regarding the styrofoam, I have been searching for blankets on Tradera to throw over, but got outbid on three today, which indicates that there are more out there who are freezing. It leans towards using a board after all. I have a few masonite boards left over and maybe they can help a bit, or do you think it's six of one and half a dozen of the other?
It's quite despairing how expensive it can be to live in a fairly decent climate during a winter. A lot of planning is required for next year... the windows need to be checked, insulation... I will probably take the opportunity to borrow the thermal camera from work and do some shooting. Around windows and doors, I already know there are massive leaks, but the question is how well the structure/facade is insulated and how it differs in height. The house was built in 1905; wasn't it common to use kutterspån in the walls at that time, and doesn't that tend to settle around ground level over time?
I need to research additional insulation. I know that you should insulate from the outside in so that the structure stays warm, partly considering the risk of condensation and partly for cold drafts. But I guess it's a thousand times easier to screw on styrofoam boards on the inside, for instance.
Regarding the styrofoam, I have been searching for blankets on Tradera to throw over, but got outbid on three today, which indicates that there are more out there who are freezing.
It leans towards using a board after all. I have a few masonite boards left over and maybe they can help a bit, or do you think it's six of one and half a dozen of the other?It's quite despairing how expensive it can be to live in a fairly decent climate during a winter. A lot of planning is required for next year... the windows need to be checked, insulation... I will probably take the opportunity to borrow the thermal camera from work and do some shooting. Around windows and doors, I already know there are massive leaks, but the question is how well the structure/facade is insulated and how it differs in height. The house was built in 1905; wasn't it common to use kutterspån in the walls at that time, and doesn't that tend to settle around ground level over time?
I need to research additional insulation. I know that you should insulate from the outside in so that the structure stays warm, partly considering the risk of condensation and partly for cold drafts. But I guess it's a thousand times easier to screw on styrofoam boards on the inside, for instance.
I would recommend propane over diesel if you're going to heat indoors and the price is roughly the same. Propane costs 20-25kr/kg in P19 bottles, and I'd rather exchange a clean, fine bottle than refill diesel indoors
By chance, I also have a propane heater for sale hehe But it's 130KW, so maybe not quite suitable for a house
By chance, I also have a propane heater for sale hehe But it's 130KW, so maybe not quite suitable for a house
Today I have put masking tape around all the windows on the ground floor. There was a lot of draft before and now the airflow should at least decrease. However, I wonder how much benefit the tape can provide overall. The insulating ability of paper is likely quite negligible in this context. Talked to a friend who has been a painter for a hundred years, he said that there is insulating "masking tape" that can be used for this purpose. Can anyone confirm this and if so, where can you buy it?
Taping around the windows is not done to increase insulation but to seal the gaps. The purpose may be the same, but the tape is meant to prevent drafts from coming in. It does not need to be insulating.
Regarding alternative heat sources, it is usually considered that oil is one of the most expensive ways to heat a house. It can hardly be cheaper because you buy it at the gas station. The linked heat cannon provides 30 kW and consumes 2.44 liters/hour. If diesel costs 12 kronor per liter, that means 1 kr per kWh. Additionally, there's the noise, moisture, diesel smell, diesel mess, and not least the investment. The regulation is certainly worse than radiator thermostats if it even has a thermostat. Thus, consumption increases. It's surely a good machine for its purpose, but it is not intended as the primary heat source in a house. I also do not think that propane is the right way to reduce the heating cost. Heating with an open flame requires very good ventilation.
Tape the windows and put sealing strips on the doors. If you have the opportunity to shut off the upper floor, that's good. It's not such a long part of the year that it is this cold. It will be cheaper by summer.
Erik
Regarding alternative heat sources, it is usually considered that oil is one of the most expensive ways to heat a house. It can hardly be cheaper because you buy it at the gas station. The linked heat cannon provides 30 kW and consumes 2.44 liters/hour. If diesel costs 12 kronor per liter, that means 1 kr per kWh. Additionally, there's the noise, moisture, diesel smell, diesel mess, and not least the investment. The regulation is certainly worse than radiator thermostats if it even has a thermostat. Thus, consumption increases. It's surely a good machine for its purpose, but it is not intended as the primary heat source in a house. I also do not think that propane is the right way to reduce the heating cost. Heating with an open flame requires very good ventilation.
Tape the windows and put sealing strips on the doors. If you have the opportunity to shut off the upper floor, that's good. It's not such a long part of the year that it is this cold. It will be cheaper by summer.
Erik
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Regarding such a heater, it should be placed in, for example, a window so that it only draws in cold outside air, which it warms before blowing in. I don't think anyone suggested using it as the sole heat source, but rather to relieve electric heating since 1kr/kW is at least about half the price compared to electricity even under normal circumstances and these days just a few percent of the price (don't forget all the network fees, taxes, transmission fees, etc. with electricity).
Avemo said: