4,155 views ·
3 replies
4k views
3 replies
Correct way to fix issues with thick door linings so doors can open all the way?
If you have thick door frames, around 35mm, it's not easy to make them open fully without wider hinges.
Is there a standard solution for this, that was used in the past? Considering that door frames were significantly thicker further back in time? Or did people simply not open the doors 180° and settled for maybe 160-170°?
I definitely want to be able to open up 180°, all the way to the baseboard in principle, so the door leaves are out of the way.
I have searched for old-fashioned hinges that are wider than usual, but can't find any. Also, they can't be too wide either, because then it's not possible to open the door fully either.
Is there a standard solution for this, that was used in the past? Considering that door frames were significantly thicker further back in time? Or did people simply not open the doors 180° and settled for maybe 160-170°?
I definitely want to be able to open up 180°, all the way to the baseboard in principle, so the door leaves are out of the way.
I have searched for old-fashioned hinges that are wider than usual, but can't find any. Also, they can't be too wide either, because then it's not possible to open the door fully either.
Last edited:
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 257 posts
Hello.
A standard hinge on an interior door today can handle going around a trim up to 30mm (perhaps a few millimeters more, but then you risk scraping).
You might just be able to move the hinge out a bit in the frame/door leaf. With just 3mm, you'll get 6mm more space when open. Just be careful that the door leaf doesn't "catch" on the frame on the opposite side.
And don't forget the doorstop to avoid holes in the wall from the handle
A standard hinge on an interior door today can handle going around a trim up to 30mm (perhaps a few millimeters more, but then you risk scraping).
You might just be able to move the hinge out a bit in the frame/door leaf. With just 3mm, you'll get 6mm more space when open. Just be careful that the door leaf doesn't "catch" on the frame on the opposite side.
And don't forget the doorstop to avoid holes in the wall from the handle
When you think about interior doors, the old molding strips were 12-15 mm on the edge towards the door and 20-25 mm on the outer edge. At least around here. Since the strip had such a wedge-shaped profile, you got a decent opening angle on the door even with regular hinges... but it didn't quite reach a full 180 degrees. Until the mid-1800s, there were hand-forged, externally mounted hinges that were visibly riveted onto the door leaf. The hinge went on a "spåra," meaning a forged hook that was hammered into the frame. The hinge joint itself was thick and protruded quite far. Then the doors generally opened 180 degrees.
Okay, there might not be any standard methods then, so to speak, for regular, embedded hinges. Other than that they would need to be a bit wider.
What I'm worried about if I set them further out is that they might not hold well in the mounting. The doors are made of solid wood and are large, so they are heavy (a lot to support). You could indeed add extra hinges to distribute the load.
I've also considered making the frames (since I'm building new ones anyway) so that they protrude a bit in front of the trim, i.e., so the trim is not nailed to the frame but rather mounted beside the frame instead. This way, I can let the frame stick out maybe a centimeter, which would solve quite a few problems.
The question is just whether it looks okay, or if it looks strange... I almost need to make a small test piece to see.
I think it's important to have the door out of the way when open. More space and better in all ways.
What I'm worried about if I set them further out is that they might not hold well in the mounting. The doors are made of solid wood and are large, so they are heavy (a lot to support). You could indeed add extra hinges to distribute the load.
I've also considered making the frames (since I'm building new ones anyway) so that they protrude a bit in front of the trim, i.e., so the trim is not nailed to the frame but rather mounted beside the frame instead. This way, I can let the frame stick out maybe a centimeter, which would solve quite a few problems.
The question is just whether it looks okay, or if it looks strange... I almost need to make a small test piece to see.
I think it's important to have the door out of the way when open. More space and better in all ways.
Click here to reply