Continue tearing down the walls? Help!

[Jumos]

We have tried several different methods...

- Renovation wallpaper on top works, but you have to seal the Treetex with paint to prevent it from absorbing all the wallpaper paste. It also didn't work well for us to keep the old wallpaper on the Treetex; the adhesive from the renovation wallpaper loosened the old wallpaper from the Treetex, resulting in bubbles. Raw Treetex + paint + renovation wallpaper works better.

- Renovation plasterboard on Treetex. Works well if the Treetex is relatively flat. If the wall is bumpy, the plasterboard will partially follow the bumps.

Tearing out and replacing with plasterboard is what we're doing in the room we're working on now. Honestly, it feels like it's the simplest way to achieve a good final result. Our exterior walls are 40 cm thick, so the insulation value of the Treetex feels like a non-issue for us, though the Treetex does have pleasant sound-dampening properties that one might miss.

 

[justusandersson]

A split-level house from 1964 is likely a facade brick-clad wooden house with a stud frame on a basement foundation of concrete hollow blocks on an uninsulated concrete slab. An exterior wall on the upper floor, in cross-section from the outside in, likely consisted of half-brick facade brick, an air gap of about 2.5 cm, some type of asphalt felt, 2x4 inch wooden studs with 60 cm spacing filled with 10 cm mineral wool boards, construction paper, horizontal batten, and 16 mm gypsum boards. You don't need to break open the wall. That's how they built between 1950 and 1975.

 

[Miki_s]

Many thanks for all the answers! But as I said, I will probably keep it on all the walls except in the bedroom where I've already torn it down then put 13mm gypsum over the mess. It'll be interesting to see the difference this winter in our bedroom, and in the daughters' where I'm keeping it.

 

[Killen123]

The house is a split-level house from -64 with brick on the upper floor. The question is what kind of insulation might be between the plank and the brick, so to speak. I can guess that they used sawdust at that time? It would be interesting to break up a few planks to see.

Tretex is not only insulating against cold but also against sound, conducts heat, i.e. also cold. I have planned to install ceiling heating and will use plasterboard as a surface treatment due to the conductivity of plaster.

 

[Stefan1972]

In the past, tretex wasn't installed for insulation purposes. It was mainly used as a base for further surface layers. It's much easier to wallpaper on tretex compared to a raw plank wall, for instance...........If you wanted to paint, you might continue with masonite.

 

[Killen123]

But in the past, tretex wasn't installed for insulation purposes. It was mostly to provide a base for further surfaces. It's much easier to wallpaper on tretex compared to a raw plank wall, for example.........If one wanted to paint, they might continue with masonite.

 

[Killen123]

You can think or believe whatever you want about that, but my house was built in 1952 and has double layers of Tretex in addition to 10 cm mineral wool as insulation. The person who built it was a master builder, as were 3 of his sons, who also confirmed the question about Tretex as insulation.

 

[Stefan1972]

Yes, of course, you can add tretex if you're looking for a bit more insulation, but what I meant was mostly in general terms. It's not like they skipped tretex if the rest was well-insulated. They also needed something to put the surface layer on, and there wasn't much else back then. Tretex and masonite were what was available, apart from wooden panels.

 

[mickeforsberg]

Big thanks for all the responses! But as I said, I will probably keep it on all the walls except in the bedroom where I've already torn it down then cover it with 13mm drywall. It'll be interesting to see the difference this winter in our bedroom, and in the daughters' where I keep it.

Did you notice any difference?