I have demolished a lightweight concrete wall in the basement to create one large room from two small ones. It turns out that the floors in the respective rooms are not level, with a difference of 15 mm. On the concrete floor, there was a linoleum mat, completely unblemished after almost 50 years (the house was built in 1960), which must mean there is no moisture problem in the concrete. We would like to have a 7 mm parquet floor. What is the best way to fix the level difference? Using self-leveling compound seems unnecessary since the existing floor surface is smooth and nice.
I suspect that self-leveling compound is the best option. Alternatively, foam plastic designed for foot traffic in the right size.
Otherwise, the easiest might be to make a threshold and have different levels in the rooms, but that might not be an option?
Otherwise, the easiest might be to make a threshold and have different levels in the rooms, but that might not be an option?
The thinnest cell plastic unfortunately is 20 mm. You mentioned parquet that is 7 mm? You must be thinking of laminate flooring, right? I recently installed a laminate floor that is 9 mm thick. The alternative is to lay renovation gypsum (6 mm) and a laminate floor of 9 mm so you reach 15 mm. Some might object when I suggest laying gypsum directly on the concrete, but if you haven’t had any moisture problems before, it should work fine. After all, gypsum is a non-living material even though it's not 100% moisture-resistant. Check out Optimera for flooring. That's where I bought mine. Hope you find a solution!
You could lay out 12 mm type mortar sand and then 1 layer of 3mm masonite, so you avoid self-leveling compound, the masonite can be taped together. Just make sure the sand can't "sneak out" through holes in the floor or wall and it works well.
Sand is cheap, about 185 kr/ton, and it's soundproofing.
A lot of apartments in the 60s were built this way, but they had 100-150mm of sand under the tongued masonite and they still work.
Best regards, Jawen
Sand is cheap, about 185 kr/ton, and it's soundproofing.
A lot of apartments in the 60s were built this way, but they had 100-150mm of sand under the tongued masonite and they still work.
Best regards, Jawen
I think there was a thought error, since laminate is going to be laid in "both" rooms, it can't be counted as a height addition. If you lay 6mm gypsum, you'll be missing 9mm for it to be at the same level.Onelight said:
But a 13mm board should work since a 2mm difference certainly won't be noticeable.
However, I'm skeptical about gypsum on concrete, the paper can smell bad if it gets damp.
On the other hand, if you're laying plastic first, it shouldn't be a problem at all; otherwise, the wood floor would go to ruin as well. You could also lay plywood or another board of your choice.
Remember to lay lump paper between the floor and the board as a sound dampener. If you use 13mm gypsum, the paper probably adds 1mm as well, and then it only differs by 1mm which will never be noticed.
Personally, I think self-leveling compound seems to be the easiest and safest option. Why don't you want to use it?
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The reasons I would prefer to avoid self-leveling compound are:
1. The existing floor is even and nice
2. I have never worked with self-leveling compound (okay, I could outsource the job)
3. Can we be sure that self-leveling compound is an okay material today, with no risk of harmful emissions?
I'm considering Platon Yellow Line (plastic mat with studs, builds up 3 mm) as a moisture barrier against the concrete and then, as you suggest, plywood or another board (is there 12 mm plywood?).
But I haven't completely ruled out self-leveling compound.
1. The existing floor is even and nice
2. I have never worked with self-leveling compound (okay, I could outsource the job)
3. Can we be sure that self-leveling compound is an okay material today, with no risk of harmful emissions?
I'm considering Platon Yellow Line (plastic mat with studs, builds up 3 mm) as a moisture barrier against the concrete and then, as you suggest, plywood or another board (is there 12 mm plywood?).
But I haven't completely ruled out self-leveling compound.