Hello,
I am going to notch the frame for a beam at the wall plate on my garage's outer wall. In two places, there will be fixed windows that are 1200 wide. The trusses are spaced at 600mm. What size should the header be that is let in? Do I need to double it where I have windows? The frame is 45x120. Can the header be notched so that only 30mm of the stud remains?
I also wonder how the horizontal header is attached. Do you nail/screw it to what's left after notching, or do you toe-nail downward into the vertical stud and upward into the wall plate?
The same question applies to a laminated beam that will be carrying load over the garage door opening. Is it fastened with a metal plate to the columns/studs, or how is it done?
I am going to notch the frame for a beam at the wall plate on my garage's outer wall. In two places, there will be fixed windows that are 1200 wide. The trusses are spaced at 600mm. What size should the header be that is let in? Do I need to double it where I have windows? The frame is 45x120. Can the header be notched so that only 30mm of the stud remains?
I also wonder how the horizontal header is attached. Do you nail/screw it to what's left after notching, or do you toe-nail downward into the vertical stud and upward into the wall plate?
The same question applies to a laminated beam that will be carrying load over the garage door opening. Is it fastened with a metal plate to the columns/studs, or how is it done?
One needs to know more in order to provide good advice. This applies both to how you have planned the lintel over the windows and general information about the size of the garage. Generally, beams should rest on posts or similar supports. If using, for example, hangers, the possible load is significantly limited. Sketches or drawings provide the best communication.
Hello,
My question is about the window lintel. The garage is about 7x7 meters. It has a low pitch insulated metal roof that is installed with rafters at 600 mm center-to-center, resting on the wall plate. There are two fixed windows, 1200x400, on one side where the rafters rest. The wall plate and what is sometimes called an "injacked" beam will run along the entire load-bearing exterior wall. Should the "vertical wall plate" be 45x195 or 45x220, and should I use a double one, i.e., 90x195/220 over my windows? This leaves only 30 mm of the beam remaining.
A glue-laminated beam 90x450 spanning over the garage door will rest on a laminated 90x90 post and a 45x120 for sufficient bearing length. Do you usually fix the beam to posts and studs with nail plates and anchor screws? The rafters will rest on the beam so no joist hangers needed.
My question is about the window lintel. The garage is about 7x7 meters. It has a low pitch insulated metal roof that is installed with rafters at 600 mm center-to-center, resting on the wall plate. There are two fixed windows, 1200x400, on one side where the rafters rest. The wall plate and what is sometimes called an "injacked" beam will run along the entire load-bearing exterior wall. Should the "vertical wall plate" be 45x195 or 45x220, and should I use a double one, i.e., 90x195/220 over my windows? This leaves only 30 mm of the beam remaining.
A glue-laminated beam 90x450 spanning over the garage door will rest on a laminated 90x90 post and a 45x120 for sufficient bearing length. Do you usually fix the beam to posts and studs with nail plates and anchor screws? The rafters will rest on the beam so no joist hangers needed.
If I understand you correctly, you want a beam as a lintel over two windows, each 400 mm high and 1200 mm long, placed one after the other on one garage wall. The beam then has a span of 2.6 meters. To handle the snow load (which in Stockholm is 2 kN/sqm) and its own weight, you need a beam consisting of 2 pieces of 45x195 in strength class C24, mounted next to each other.
However, if you have one or more standing studs between the windows that the beam can rest on, 1 piece of 45x145 class C24 will suffice.
The glued laminated beam must be secured both along its length and laterally. An easy way to do this is with the help of an angle iron mounted between the column on which the beam rests and the underside of the beam. Anchor screws are good. The iron should be of a sturdy dimension. A glued laminated beam of 90x450 is quite a hefty affair.
However, if you have one or more standing studs between the windows that the beam can rest on, 1 piece of 45x145 class C24 will suffice.
The glued laminated beam must be secured both along its length and laterally. An easy way to do this is with the help of an angle iron mounted between the column on which the beam rests and the underside of the beam. Anchor screws are good. The iron should be of a sturdy dimension. A glued laminated beam of 90x450 is quite a hefty affair.
Thank you for the help. There are two separate windows with braces in between, so I interpret it as that a standing 195 along the entire wall would suffice. The reason I was pondering was because in this video they used doubles at the window. https://youtu.be/3KunI3KaiDA
Regarding the iron and the glued laminated timber. Do you mean that you screw the flat iron on top of the post and then lay the beam on the post and then screw the piece of iron that sticks out beyond the post into the underside of the glued laminated beam?
Again, thank you.
Regarding the iron and the glued laminated timber. Do you mean that you screw the flat iron on top of the post and then lay the beam on the post and then screw the piece of iron that sticks out beyond the post into the underside of the glued laminated beam?
Again, thank you.
One can view the problem in multiple ways. In the YouTube clip, they make a solution that should generally hold regardless of where in the country one is located (the snow load varies significantly between south and north) and regardless of the building's size (the building's roof area determines the size of the total loads that must be handled). Calculating the problem instead based on the current conditions leads to a more optimal solution.
A standing 195 all the way is over-dimensioning but of course a good solution.
To your second question, I answer yes, but I prefer to call it angle iron, not flat iron.
A standing 195 all the way is over-dimensioning but of course a good solution.
To your second question, I answer yes, but I prefer to call it angle iron, not flat iron.