One more question... 
Since I also have to fill up the near side on the right picture above, I'm now considering filling up with foam and buying concrete by truck. It will be cheaper and easier than working with leca, and I’m not in a hurry with that part, so it doesn't matter if it takes a month to dry.
Now to the question; do I need reinforcement to cast on 30 mm foam placed directly on the old slab? The slab thickness will be about 3-4 cm at the thickest part. On top of that, 50 mm grooved foam + underfloor heating + parquet will be laid.
Many questions I have...
Since I also have to fill up the near side on the right picture above, I'm now considering filling up with foam and buying concrete by truck. It will be cheaper and easier than working with leca, and I’m not in a hurry with that part, so it doesn't matter if it takes a month to dry.
Now to the question; do I need reinforcement to cast on 30 mm foam placed directly on the old slab? The slab thickness will be about 3-4 cm at the thickest part. On top of that, 50 mm grooved foam + underfloor heating + parquet will be laid.
Many questions I have...
Hi,
I have a studded bedroom and a hallway on the ground floor where I was considering something similar, but for some reason, I'm worried about casting in foam plastic. I think moisture gets trapped there and is forced up into the walls or stays and becomes "moldy." If someone who is an expert on this could say what works and what doesn't, that would be great!
Therefore, I'm leaning towards using leca and then casting coarse concrete on this, or alternatively casting everything with EPS cement.
My slab on the slab is going to be 10cm thick.
How thick do you pour in total?
What is the cost per m2?
Why did you choose not to use a leveling floor or similar?
I have a studded bedroom and a hallway on the ground floor where I was considering something similar, but for some reason, I'm worried about casting in foam plastic. I think moisture gets trapped there and is forced up into the walls or stays and becomes "moldy." If someone who is an expert on this could say what works and what doesn't, that would be great!
Therefore, I'm leaning towards using leca and then casting coarse concrete on this, or alternatively casting everything with EPS cement.
My slab on the slab is going to be 10cm thick.
How thick do you pour in total?
What is the cost per m2?
Why did you choose not to use a leveling floor or similar?
Hello Joel.
I apologize for missing your post. I don't see embedding cellplast as a problem; sure, moisture might rise in the walls, but since I don't have any organic material there, it's not a concern. Leca is probably fine too, but it has significantly worse insulation value than cellplast.
The slab I'm going to pour will be about 10-11 cm thick with 2x10cm cellplast underneath. I have no idea about the cost, it will be a pleasant surprise on the day I decide to look at the receipts
Nivellgolv seems like a hassle, and besides, I will have a bath and laundry room there, so I don't see any other option.
Now to my question.
Now that I've finally gotten around to chiseling out channels where I've laid the plumbing and then filled it with gravel around. I've leveled the floor slope with sand. How precise does the evenness of the substrate need to be? Does it matter if it varies by +/- 1-2 cm? I mean, the weight of the concrete should even most of it out.
I apologize for missing your post. I don't see embedding cellplast as a problem; sure, moisture might rise in the walls, but since I don't have any organic material there, it's not a concern. Leca is probably fine too, but it has significantly worse insulation value than cellplast.
The slab I'm going to pour will be about 10-11 cm thick with 2x10cm cellplast underneath. I have no idea about the cost, it will be a pleasant surprise on the day I decide to look at the receipts
Nivellgolv seems like a hassle, and besides, I will have a bath and laundry room there, so I don't see any other option.
Now to my question.
Now that I've finally gotten around to chiseling out channels where I've laid the plumbing and then filled it with gravel around. I've leveled the floor slope with sand. How precise does the evenness of the substrate need to be? Does it matter if it varies by +/- 1-2 cm? I mean, the weight of the concrete should even most of it out.
I would like it a little smoother. There is a bit of a risk that you might damage the styrofoam otherwise during the reinforcement and underfloor heating phases.
Then I find it difficult to lay the underfloor heating at an even depth if the styrofoam isn't flat and stays put.
Then I find it difficult to lay the underfloor heating at an even depth if the styrofoam isn't flat and stays put.
What I'm afraid of is that there might be a "bom" somewhere, but since there's not much of a difference, I'm assuming the weight of the slab ensures the cell plastic stays snug against the ground.
Damn, how paranoid one gets
Damn, how paranoid one gets
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The work continues and here are a number of pictures from the project. It will eventually become a laundry room and a large bathroom with a sauna. The immediate task is to get the slab cast so that we can use the space as temporary housing for the next year(s) while we renovate the upper floor... Tomorrow, it's time to lay the underfloor heating pipes.
It's important that you don't point out any possible mistakes visible in the pictures, I don't have the energy to start tearing up and starting over
It's important that you don't point out any possible mistakes visible in the pictures, I don't have the energy to start tearing up and starting over
Member
· Norrbotten
· 3 390 posts
Fun with pictures. Looks well-made, you've even got symmetrically placed distancing blocks
Are you going to tie the underfloor heating pipe to the reinforcement on top? From a heating standpoint, that's wise, but it requires a lot of work and tying so that it doesn't stick up anywhere. Many of the systems rely on clips or barbs that are attached directly to the foam.
A smart idea that I gather you've already touched on is to foam or cast the floor drains in position and level before the concrete truck arrives.
How are you going to form the slopes to the drains? Work by hand or with guide pipes?
Are you going to tie the underfloor heating pipe to the reinforcement on top? From a heating standpoint, that's wise, but it requires a lot of work and tying so that it doesn't stick up anywhere. Many of the systems rely on clips or barbs that are attached directly to the foam.
A smart idea that I gather you've already touched on is to foam or cast the floor drains in position and level before the concrete truck arrives.
How are you going to form the slopes to the drains? Work by hand or with guide pipes?
Nice to hear that it looks well-made, especially since it's my first time doing this The underfloor heating pipe will be tied on top of the reinforcement because I want the pipe fairly close to the surface and not at the bottom. It would definitely be much more convenient that way. I’ll be wrestling with the pipe during the day, so it'll be interesting to see how it goes. By the way, I bought the pipe (2x200m) from a guy in Avan for almost half the price compared to Rinkaby. He also sold other stuff for underfloor heating systems. I'll call him about distributors.
Yes, it certainly is foam-sealed. I would say it's hermetically sealed I’m planning to hire out the actual casting to those who know how. I feel it's a bit too big of a job for me and my mixer (24m2), especially when gradients, etc., need to be done. If I were casting it myself, I would lay out guide tracks/iron pipes.
How's it going in Unbyn then?
The underfloor heating pipe will be tied on top of the reinforcement because I want the pipe fairly close to the surface and not at the bottom. It would definitely be much more convenient that way. I’ll be wrestling with the pipe during the day, so it'll be interesting to see how it goes. By the way, I bought the pipe (2x200m) from a guy in Avan for almost half the price compared to Rinkaby. He also sold other stuff for underfloor heating systems. I'll call him about distributors.Yes, it certainly is foam-sealed. I would say it's hermetically sealed
I’m planning to hire out the actual casting to those who know how. I feel it's a bit too big of a job for me and my mixer (24m2), especially when gradients, etc., need to be done. If I were casting it myself, I would lay out guide tracks/iron pipes.How's it going in Unbyn then?
Member
· Norrbotten
· 3 390 posts
Interesting, who was it, was his name Landfors perhaps? I live so close, and have still ordered stuff via Rinkaby. q(;^jeppeknaster said:
p But further additions are likely needed, maybe directly from Avan then?Yep, poured the slab two weeks ago now. Did everything by hand, leveling against pipes, smoothing/finishing, and sloping toward drains. Not a perfect result, but quite okay for a complete amateur. Watering is done and the frame is up. Rafters were placed yesterday evening.
Called him the day before yesterday and apparently, he has stopped selling stuff because his "contact" moved south... Typical when you need a bunch of stuff. So it'll have to be Rinkaby.
How big is your slab?
How big is your slab?
Do you mean in height? 2x10 cm foam and then 10-12 cm concrete