Now I have torn up all the decking, how can I be sure that the joists and beams are in good enough condition? The deck was built in 1998 and the decking is original, so it was really worn out.
I think the beams look okay.

I plan to try to place one of the pergola's pillars by the beam in the middle.
 
  • Wooden deck framework after removing the boards, showing joists and beams adjacent to a white house with a red roof.
  • Close-up of aged wooden joists with visible wear and moss, part of a deck frame from 1998.
  • Decking removed showing wooden joists and beams over dirt and leaves, indicating an old deck renovation project.
  • Wooden deck joists exposed after removing old decking boards, part of a 1998-built structure. Planning to place pergola post on the middle beam.
  • Wooden deck joists and beams exposed after removal of decking boards, near a white house. Nails and some wear visible; grass borders the area.
  • Deck frame with exposed joists and beams next to a white house, soil and gravel ground, suggesting ongoing renovation or inspection work.
I think it looks good. I would have put a stone slab under the beam where you place the post, not because it's necessarily needed but because it's easily done for safety's sake.

Edit: Reread and saw that you probably meant the long beam, in that case, no stone slab is needed.
 
J jehr said:
I think it looks good. I would put a stone slab under the ledger where you set the post, not because it might be necessary but because it's easily done just in case.

Edit: Reread and saw that you probably meant the long ledger, in that case, no stone slab is needed.
There is a certain moisture on the top, but it doesn't feel soft in any way. Should I spray some kind of product to remove algae before laying the new decking, do you think?

Yes, exactly, if I attach the long ledger with coach screws and some joist hanger, it should hold well!
 
Marcus0321 Marcus0321 said:
5 m is too long for the support span; the beam will sag considerably. So there will be another post. It doesn't need to be placed in the middle but can be placed where it works well, about 1.5-1m out from one side at the least.
I'm considering placing one or two posts about 1.5m out, not at the 90-degree angle, it would feel much more open this way!
 
J joasag said:
Should one spray some solution to remove algae before laying the new decking, you think?
No
 
J joasag said:
Okay, I'm thinking of maybe putting something like this on existing studs to protect them from more moisture in the future.
[link]
Won't it be quite expensive compared to regular underlay felt?
 
F fribygg said:
Isn't it quite expensive compared to regular underlagspapp?
Yes, there are much cheaper options, e.g.
https://amzn.eu/d/3ppWRN0
 
It will probably last another 20 years without you doing anything, but you can apply some algae wash and clean them off if you want.
 
J joasag said:
I have a plan to build a pergola on a part of the terrace as the deck is being replaced this spring.
The idea is that it should look something like this:
[image][image]

So I thought of attaching one side to the facade or on the overhang of the hipped roof. Is there anything specific I should consider when doing this?
Here is a poor picture showing the hipped roof and the space where the pergola will be attached.
[image]

I am also considering whether I can skip the post that ends up in the middle of the terrace by having a longer beam. But this might just complicate things, and require a larger dimension of timber?

[image]
Completely unrelated question, but: Which program did you draw this in?
 
C comatose_tortoise said:
Completely unrelated question, but: Which program did you draw this in?
Sketchup
 
J joasag said:
Now that I've torn up all the decking, how can I be sure that the joists and beams are in good enough condition? The deck was built in 1998 and the decking is original, so it was really worn out. The beams look okay to me.

I was thinking of trying to place one of the pergola's posts next to the beam in the middle.
All the joists seem to be toe-nailed into the underlying beam. Should I take the opportunity to install joist hangers or brace them with some sturdy stainless steel construction screws? The deck has been stable before, but it feels quite flimsy now that no decking is on the joists.
 
T
J joasag said:
All the joists seem to be toe-nailed into the underlying support beam. Should I take the opportunity to install joist hangers or fasten them with some stable stainless construction screws? The deck has been stable in the past but feels quite weak now that no decking is on the joists.
It will be less stable when you remove the decking, but it returns to being stable with new decking. The joists will remain in place with the current nails. No new ones are needed.
 
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Need to raise/lower the studs a bit as it is not quite level. Any tips? Jack and a wooden shim in the brackets?
 
  • Wooden beams on a gravel foundation, possibly needing adjustment to level the surface.
T
Yes, if the spike is not enough, although it may be difficult to reach with it.
Then wedge in the iron and screw it tight.
 
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