I have a thought. I'm planning to build a sauna in the basement and need to construct an interior wall to partition a larger room. Initially, I considered using metal studs but have now decided to build with leca blocks. This means I only need to plaster the outside so it blends with the other walls in that room. I also don't need to worry about any wall coverings being sensitive to moisture.
I have previously built with Byggmax leca blocks (the wider variants), but for this wall, 90 mm width should suffice. This narrower option doesn't have the grooves for reinforcing rods, like the wider ones do, which has made me start looking for alternatives.
I'm wondering if others have tested the different variants of leca blocks available. Byggmax has this one for 20.95 each:
https://www.byggmax.se/murblock-p04509
Alternatively, there is this one at Beijer for 37.71 each:
https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/byggmaterial/byggnadsblock-ballast/murblock-lättklinker/leca-block-95x198x498mm-rak-006591107
The latter looks quite convenient, as you can attach tracks to the floor and walls to hold the blocks in place, instead of drilling in reinforcing rods. They also have the option to run electricity inside the blocks. However, I'm not sure how significant this is in the basement since all the other electrical wiring is surface-mounted.
The price difference is quite large. Then I'm considering how Webers' mortar works without a masonry box (I don't intend to buy one for several thousand for a small interior wall). The holes in these blocks mean you can't just slap on the mortar, since half of it will fall into the holes if you lay it on traditionally with a trowel.
Another thing to consider is that the floor currently has a slope, so I need to compensate for this by applying a thicker layer of mortar on one end of the wall (perhaps in several courses). With Webers' thin mortar, the joints will only be millimeters thick.
I have previously cast a floor drain in the middle of the upcoming sauna. I'm planning to build up the wall and then apply self-leveling compound inside the sauna (I probably need to create some kind of threshold at the door since the floor slopes in that direction today).
I have previously built with Byggmax leca blocks (the wider variants), but for this wall, 90 mm width should suffice. This narrower option doesn't have the grooves for reinforcing rods, like the wider ones do, which has made me start looking for alternatives.
I'm wondering if others have tested the different variants of leca blocks available. Byggmax has this one for 20.95 each:
https://www.byggmax.se/murblock-p04509
Alternatively, there is this one at Beijer for 37.71 each:
https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/byggmaterial/byggnadsblock-ballast/murblock-lättklinker/leca-block-95x198x498mm-rak-006591107
The latter looks quite convenient, as you can attach tracks to the floor and walls to hold the blocks in place, instead of drilling in reinforcing rods. They also have the option to run electricity inside the blocks. However, I'm not sure how significant this is in the basement since all the other electrical wiring is surface-mounted.
The price difference is quite large. Then I'm considering how Webers' mortar works without a masonry box (I don't intend to buy one for several thousand for a small interior wall). The holes in these blocks mean you can't just slap on the mortar, since half of it will fall into the holes if you lay it on traditionally with a trowel.
Another thing to consider is that the floor currently has a slope, so I need to compensate for this by applying a thicker layer of mortar on one end of the wall (perhaps in several courses). With Webers' thin mortar, the joints will only be millimeters thick.
I have previously cast a floor drain in the middle of the upcoming sauna. I'm planning to build up the wall and then apply self-leveling compound inside the sauna (I probably need to create some kind of threshold at the door since the floor slopes in that direction today).
It might be more convenient with metal studs, but I thought it would be sturdier with a masonry wall. Then all the walls would be done the same way (I was thinking of putting up SPU boards and then wooden studs inside the boards to nail the sauna panel against).
The mortar joint becomes stronger than the block. It's just about laying a moderate amount of mortar with a suitable trowel. It doesn't need grooves for rebar, place bed joint reinforcement in the joint, they are quite thin compared to rebar.
I haven't tried the beijervariant, I usually cut out for electricity afterwards with a diamond blade on the angle grinder, and then plaster it in. But if some mortar falls into the hole, it doesn’t really matter.
The difference in height is easily managed with the mortar.
I would go with mortar b and the usual cheap solid leca blocks. Personally, I think leca is a good choice for basements.
I haven't tried the beijervariant, I usually cut out for electricity afterwards with a diamond blade on the angle grinder, and then plaster it in. But if some mortar falls into the hole, it doesn’t really matter.
The difference in height is easily managed with the mortar.
I would go with mortar b and the usual cheap solid leca blocks. Personally, I think leca is a good choice for basements.
I will think about it. Thanks for the tips!