Hello!
I'm sketching how to build an interior wall under my glulam beam as smoothly as possible, i.e., incorporating the beam into the new wall.
The beam is 90 wide. The problem is that if I cover it with drywall on the side the guy is standing on (see linked video clip) http://screencast.com/t/ZDdmMTJk, the wall will be 13 mm out, compared to the existing wall. The beam is thus in line with the existing wall. How can this be solved?
In the linked video, I've sketched a solution with a 70 stud and drywall up to the beam on one side. Maybe one can hide the joint between the wall and the beam with some kind of molding? On the other side, I take the drywall up to the ceiling.
I'm a happy amateur, so perhaps someone has another solution?
Best regards,
Niclas
I'm sketching how to build an interior wall under my glulam beam as smoothly as possible, i.e., incorporating the beam into the new wall.
The beam is 90 wide. The problem is that if I cover it with drywall on the side the guy is standing on (see linked video clip) http://screencast.com/t/ZDdmMTJk, the wall will be 13 mm out, compared to the existing wall. The beam is thus in line with the existing wall. How can this be solved?
In the linked video, I've sketched a solution with a 70 stud and drywall up to the beam on one side. Maybe one can hide the joint between the wall and the beam with some kind of molding? On the other side, I take the drywall up to the ceiling.
I'm a happy amateur, so perhaps someone has another solution?
Best regards,
Niclas
I'm not quite sure if I have understood what you mean but the options should be.
1. Frame up (with 90mm studs) in the space under the beam and clad the whole wall with plaster.
2. Frame up in the space with 90 - 13 - 13 = 67mm studs and plaster only that space. So the plaster is recessed under the beam, then you patch it.
Alt 1 is best.
1. Frame up (with 90mm studs) in the space under the beam and clad the whole wall with plaster.
2. Frame up in the space with 90 - 13 - 13 = 67mm studs and plaster only that space. So the plaster is recessed under the beam, then you patch it.
Alt 1 is best.
Option 1: the surface-mounted drywall will make the new wall not align perfectly with the old wall (will build out 13 mm). Maybe it's possible to manage with some sort of vertical trim that hides the transition?
Option 2: Do you mean to putty the joint between the drywall and beam, or? Surely you can't putty the entire beam without it cracking, right?? As mentioned, a bit of a novice here
Thanks for the feedback!
Option 2: Do you mean to putty the joint between the drywall and beam, or? Surely you can't putty the entire beam without it cracking, right?? As mentioned, a bit of a novice here
Thanks for the feedback!
Add a layer of 13mm gypsum to the existing wall as well?
Good, it's just that it becomes necessary since it's the wall to the staircase between the floors, so there will be some "follow-up work" to avoid the seam (i.e., continue down the stairs and also one of the hall walls below). But definitely a variant to keep in mind!
Plaster the old wall as well was what I meant with option 1. I myself did according to option 2 when I did the same thing. I filled and used fiberglass tape where the plasterboard met hardboard. Where the plasterboard met the beam, it held with just putty. Then I painted on top of the putty.
Place microlit fabric over the beam and plaster according to option 2.
/Jörgen
/Jörgen