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One thing I've learned is to be paranoid that everything can catch fire for the smallest reason.

Now I'm considering building a larger room where you might have a mini workshop, maybe even welding...

I've often wondered how to do that, you must make sure it's more sealed than if it were a regular room.

Or well, it could apply to garages or boiler rooms in general, how do you make sure everything doesn't catch fire from the smallest spark?

;)
 
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Construction is done to withstand a fire, ensuring that the ventilation does not transmit smoke to other areas and does not exit outside a wooden facade, etc. The door to the room should be metal and insulated. The frame should be metal. No wooden details in the room, like window casings, etc.

For the risk of ignition from sparks from grinding and welding, you can use several different mtrl. such as 0.71 mm galvanized sheet metal, which is a cheap and good solution. Obviously, do you have concrete flooring in the room? Ceiling clad with metal.

However, do not rely on drywall. They are only fire-retardant for about 15 minutes. Better to use Cemenwood panels and similar mtrl. Eternit and Internit were once much used as mtrl. for fire protection (no longer available).
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Builder
 
The most important thing is to ensure there are no seams or gaps/cracks in the walls and against the floor where any welding/grinding sparks can dance in.
 
Y
I was kinda hoping you would say it's not that bad, just like the friend who was welding in his woodworking shed with an overflowing basket of papers next to him, etc. :)

I find it hard to imagine how I would clad the workshop in metal, but in my question, the idea was actually to build a room inside the largest building. Maybe I should have built with brick or cast(?) since they should provide good resistance. I had the idea that the ceiling would be strong enough to serve as a load-bearing upper floor.

In the workshop, there is a concrete floor and brick walls, but the ceiling is old wood, classically angled, is it worth spending time protecting this, relatively high ceiling.
 
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Yrrol said:
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Maybe one should have built with bricks or cast(?) because they should provide good resistance.. I had the idea that the roof should be strong enough to work as a load-bearing upper floor..

In the workshop, there is a concrete floor and brick walls, but the roof is old wood, classically angled, is there any point in spending time to protect this, relatively high ceiling.

Both bricks and concrete are considered/are non-combustible. Therefore suitable.

If you have a high ceiling, it should be very high for the sparks from an angle grinder to not reach up there. They can easily fly both 5 and 6 m.

But why set the protection so high up? If you don't need the height, you can lower/suspend the ceiling by hanging battens with band iron to the existing roof construction and stretch a metal mesh on these to catch the sparks.
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Byggaren
 
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In my mind, I'm juggling between refurbishing the existing workshop or building a room in a large building.

For the existing workshop, I need high ceilings since I have a car lift.

I guess I simply need to consider what my actual goal is, a fine mechanic's room or a full-size car workshop. :)

Although, knowing a bit about the materials & technology was helpful for making the decisions.
 
build up with bricks/leca and then plaster, it will look really nice remember to have water+fire extinguishing equipment in the premises as well as a fire alarm....
 
Plaster is classified as a fire-protective covering, so it works just as well to build with it. It would take quite a lot of welding splatter before it even starts to glow...

A standard plasterboard resists fire for 15 minutes, a fireboard for 30... The wall's construction as a whole is what determines the fire resistance.

I know there are requirements in BBR on how a room with "flammable activities" should be constructed.

I would guess that if you ask the building committee, they will give you a fire requirement you need to fulfill.
 
Elvis69 said:
Gypsum is classified as fire-protective cladding, so it's just as good to build with. It would take quite a bit of welding spray before it even starts to glow...

A standard gypsum board resists fire for 15 minutes, a fire-resistant board for 30... The wall's overall construction is what determines fire resistance.

I know there are requirements in the BBR on how a room with "flammable activity" should be constructed.

I would assume that if you ask the building committee, you will get a fire requirement you need to meet.
Addition to yesterday's post:

In BBR, it states:

5:513 Surface layers and cladding in certain rooms
...Walls and ceiling surfaces in assembly rooms and rooms for flammable activities
should have a surface layer of class B-s1,d0 (class I) attached to material of
A2-s1,d0 (non-combustible material) or cladding in class K210/B-s1,d0 (fire-protective
cladding)...

5:674 Premises for flammable activities, etc.

Premises for flammable activities and laboratory rooms where the fire risk is
significant, must be designed as their own fire compartment and separated in at least class EI 60...

EI60 walls can be built in several ways.
 
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But when people use their old buildings as workshops, is it okay just because they were built in times when there were no requirements? Or is there an obligation for everyone to adapt their old premises?

If my old building from the 30s catches fire in the wooden roof or something, will it be a huge hassle with the insurance companies then?
 
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Yrrol said:
But when people use their old buildings as workshops, is it okay just because it was built in times when there were no requirements? Or is there an obligation for everyone to adapt their old premises?

If my old building from the 30s catches fire up in the wooden roof or something, will it be a big mess with the insurance companies then?
Changed fire regulations mean that the premises have to be altered.

It's not the case that just because you are approved once, you are approved forever.
 
The premises are also approved for a certain purpose, and if this changes, one must also obtain a new approval. I think one should cover the wood with plasterboard and keep everything flammable in cabinets. Safety trash can for rags etc. Check out http://www.jiwa.se/.
 
Drywall on a steel stud frame with one layer of standard gypsum board on each side holds fire rating EI30. With 2 layers on each side, it is fire rating EI60, according to Gyproc's handbook. Alternatively, one layer of gypsum and one layer of minerit can be used to be extra safe. One of the biggest fire risks in garages, as I see it, is disorder such as full wastebaskets, dust and shavings, lumber, packaging, and other materials that can ignite. Gypsum walls do not self-ignite precisely.
 
The only times it has caught fire when I was welding was old rust protection in beams, so far I haven't managed to ignite anything with the angle grinder. Well-cleaned and tidied up + two 6kg powder extinguishers (or a CO2 one if you don't want to make a mess) is good. Gypsum on walls and ceiling with a concrete floor should be fine, right?

I don't think a layman needs to think too much about the fire rating of the premises if common sense is applied in their use.
 
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