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I'm going to build a cold storage and am thinking about the outer wall. The roof is cc30 to manage with 45x145 with a span of 340 cm.

How should I handle the outer wall?

I hope to frame the wall with vertical studs cc60 but the top plate is a horizontal 45x95. Maybe it will sag in the middle then?
 
  • Sketch of a storage shed with dimensions; open design with slanted roof, vertical supports, and base frame, showing construction plans.
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I have more questions :)

Do you have the outer ridge hanging like this?

Can you have it?

Going to have metal, no råsont
 
  • Illustration of roof structure with a highlighted outer roof ridge; query about its positioning and metal sheeting without decking.
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D Derbyboy said:
I have more questions :)

Do you have the outer ridge hanging like this?

can you have it.

I will have sheet metal, no råsont
No, that ridge serves no purpose other than weighing down the sparse paneling and sheet metal. It should either rest on something or be removed.
 
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D Derbyboy said:
I'm going to build a cold storage and am considering the outer wall. The roof is cc30 to manage with 45x145 with a span of 340 cm.

How should I do with the outer wall?

I hope to be able to frame the wall with vertical studs cc60 but the top plate is a horizontal 45x95. Maybe it sags in the middle then?
Drop in a 45x95/120 at the top of the vertical studs supporting the top plate, and you'll be fine.
 
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T Testarn said:
No, that ridge beam serves no function other than to weigh down sparse paneling and sheet metal. It should either rest on something or be removed.
It might not be called a ridge beam, but it can be used to attach the fascia board and the front plank, in case a gutter is to be attached.
 
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It might be supported by the hammarbandet if you let it go there and if it is supported by an infälld regel as I wrote before. It might not need to be of the same large dimension to save some weight?
 
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It will be difficult to make the facade look nice if I let the hammarband go all the way out.

I experimented a bit with a thinner dimension and it could work, but if it can be 145, it covers the protruding rafters on the long side. I think it looks nice.
 
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Then the question is whether the battens are of a dimension that can support the ridge and the metal sheet as well as the snow load...? Perhaps you could add a few more battens in the last sections?
 
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Yes, it's a good thought.

I was thinking battens 34x70 cc 600 (but can go down to cc400 in the last sections). The overhang is about 20 cm.
 
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There's not much of an overhang, it looked longer on the drawing. :)

I would probably just double the battens in the last two sections, then it will be easier to set the battens and then throw a few in between. Then it's a done deal!
 
D Derbyboy said:
Do you have the outer roof ridge hanging like this?
I would skip it, or replace it with a 45*45 if you find it difficult to fasten the wind board only in the protruding batten.
 
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Yeah, I'm not really sure if it's a good idea to attach a fascia board to the end grain of the roof battens which are 34x70.

I don't know if it makes a difference to "hang" something like a 45x70 to better secure the fascia board.

The reason I wanted to use a 45x145 was to hide the protruding roof rafters on the long side when you look at the shed straight from the side.

Also, it will probably be easier and better to attach the long plank that will run along the long side if I go with a 45x70.
 
  • Shed roof frame design showing rafters and beams, with yellow highlights on specific sections for potential wind protection installation.
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It's called "takfotsbräda" :)
 
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