I'm planning to build my grill tomorrow.

But when I "dry stack" as a test, I realize that my planned shift with half a brick, with only one cut brick in each course (except at the ends every other course, of course), results in a joint that runs (vertically) through the entire wall—not good. See the red marking on the image.

According to tegelmaster.se, there should be a shift with at least 1/4 brick for a good bond.

How would you have solved this?

Brick layout with a red vertical line highlighting alignment issue. Set on a white surface, surrounded by greenery in the background.
 
You can just pull in and move the band to the right, hard to explain but if you start with a half at the front edge then maybe you'll understand?
 
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Alko
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Stefan N Stefan N said:
You need to pull in and move the join to the right, hard to explain but if you start with a half one at the front edge, you might understand?
Ok, but if I go as planned with whole stones overlapping at the corners, I can't avoid two vertical joints exactly over each other unless I use two cut stones in every other course to get a decent overlap of 1/3 or 1/4 stone, but I guess it has to be that way, just annoying.
 
I don't understand the problem? If you just move it to the right of the red line by half a stone so there is no gap, rotate the lower stone in the right corner, and then just push in the right side by half a stone, isn't it fine? Or is there a requirement that it should be alternating whole, alternating half outward on both sides?
 
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Alko
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J Jensa86 said:
I don't understand the problem? If you just move it to the right of the red line half a brick so there’s no gap, rotate the lower brick in the right corner and then just push in the right side half a brick, won't it be fine? Or is there some requirement that it has to be alternating whole, alternating half outwards on both sides?
What happens then is you end up with a wall without bonding. You always want to lay courses staggered to get a stronger wall. Otherwise, there wouldn't be any problem, of course.

Trying to reduce the number of cuts of this hard-fired clay paver and maintain sufficient overlap between the bricks in the courses.
 
Jensa thinks the same as me but I don't think you understand what we mean. Everything will be in förband if you do that.
 
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Alko
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Aha, thanks, now I get it. I got fixated on the idea that it should be the same on both sides outward in the gables, but of course that's not a requirement.
 
In short, you can skip the symmetry at the front on both sides. If you overlap all the way around, you will have a half-brick off every other round at the front. (I assume)
 
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