8mm of courseM myrto said:
Ah, but how typical, why did they give me these countersunk screws at Hornbach?! I bought the brackets from them at the same time, so he knew what I was going to do, and he went around picking these out for meA atomlab said:
It's hard now to get to Hornbach/Bauhaus etc. They are far away, and I don't have an available car right now. Is it completely wrong to use countersunk anyway?
It will work just fine. But when there were opportunities to get the right stuff, it's a shame it didn't go all the way. The board part should sit in the subject you're fastening. Now you have the majority of the screw in the wall completely unnecessarily. Is it flat metal or countersunk hole in the metal?M myrto said:Ah but so typical, why did they give me these countersunk screws at Hornbach?! I bought the brackets from them at the same time so he knew what I was going to do and he went around picking these for me
It's hard now to get to Hornbach/Bauhaus, etc. They are far away and I don't have an available car right now. Is it completely wrong to use countersunk anyway?
Drive with the screw you have. It can be changed later on (which you probably never do).
If you get a good grip, it will handle substantial weight.
If you get a good grip, it will handle substantial weight.
There are screws in more places. A countersunk screw in something completely flat rarely looks nice. Perhaps you have a Clas Ohlson or Järnia store nearby? Or maybe your local grocery store has a small but adequate selection of screws for this? What you're looking for is fully threaded, i.e. threads along the entire length of the screw, with a flat surface against the wall. The length of the one you have seems fine, slightly shorter works. The head should be slightly larger than the hole in the brackets; double-check that as the things you've been helped with don't seem completely thought through.
I pictured that TS had enormously long screws for their plugs, not that they just slightly go through the plug.Nicro said:
Hello.
You may have already drilled your holes.
If not, drill with the 8mm drill until it doesn't reach further. Then use the 6mm drill to get the right depth for the hole.
Matte
You may have already drilled your holes.
If not, drill with the 8mm drill until it doesn't reach further. Then use the 6mm drill to get the right depth for the hole.
Matte
If you drill first with 6mm, there's a risk that the 8mm drill might catch, I think. The reverse, as others suggest, works fine.
The knowledge of the staff at these stores is extremely lacking and often virtually non-existent. Today, not many stay very long at these types of workplaces and thus don't have time to learn anything. Employers do not take their responsibility either and do not send staff for training, perhaps because they know that most will have left within a year anyway.M myrto said:Ah, but so typical, why did they give me these countersunk screws at Hornbach?! I bought the brackets from them at the same time, so he knew what I was going to do, and he went around and picked these out for me
It's hard now to get to Hornbach/Bauhaus, etc. They're far away and I don't have an available car right now. Is it completely wrong to use countersunk anyway?
The result is that most of the staff guess or convince themselves that they "know" the answer to all the questions they get so as not to appear foolish in the situation.
M myrto said:
Isn't there a little misunderstanding here? Is the screw really too long? The screw head shouldn't be pulled all the way up to the plug. I guess the unthreaded part sits inside the bracket. So the thread might be just the right length for the plug. If it still bottoms out (check before you put the plug in), extend the hole with the 6mm bit. That is, 8mm first, then run the 6mm inside the existing hole.M myrto said:
Would it be completely wrong to drill the 8 mm hole first and then extend with the 6 mm drill bit? Then there shouldn't be any risk of cracks.Claes Sörmland said:
