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8 replies
5k views
8 replies
Bending corners on window sills can't get it right help needed
have checked online and followed the instructions. The problem is that the sheet metal in the corner where I have bent up an edge is sticking out a bit. So it does not lie flush against the rule, which will be a problem during installation as it will not fit all the way into the groove. The sheet metal somehow slides when I bend the corners? I am using a "falstång" when doing it. About 10 cm is affected, and you can see the gap at the arrow. Tips are welcome.
it's sure to be nice when you install the sheet metal in the windowVulcan61 said:
have checked online and followed the instructions. The problem is that the sheet metal in the corner where I have bent up an edge, the sheet metal sticks out a bit. So it doesn’t lie against the beam, which will be a problem during installation as it won’t fit all the way into the groove. The sheet metal is pushed in some way when I bend the corners? I have a folding tool when I do it. It's about 10 cm that gets a blow, you can see the gap at the arrow. Tips are welcome
https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threa...eck-daer-foenster-moeter-altandoerren.256395/
installation in the window should be one of these?
http://www.teknikhandboken.se/handb...vriga-infastningar/fonsterbleck-till-trakarm/
However, it doesn't turn out perfect in the corner. I attached a couple of flashing pieces in the same way last year in PVC windows. Used flashing screws. It's when you pinch the ear and hammer in the ear that tensions occur in the metal. Wooden windows probably would have worked better since there's more to grip into.
Renovator
· Kalmar län
· 2 600 posts
When you have bent upwards with the folding pliers, there will be a small gap between the fold and the part that rests against the window. When you bend the flap, the gap closes at the expense of the angle between the standing and horizontal parts, it approaches 90 degrees, which causes your problem. You need to try to adjust some material so that this gap closes before you bend the flap. I usually do it with the folding pliers. It's hard to explain, I felt. But if the flashing hadn't been tilted, the gap wouldn't have appeared, then the flap created when you bend up would have been flat immediately; this is the position you need to reach before bending the flap. Well, I hope something in this rambling is comprehensible and can help you in the right direction.
Sure, but with solid wood the threads grip better. If there's resistance in PVC, just spin the screw as the threads get loose. Instead, I made a groove in a stud and fastened the bracket with clamps, then bent the corners, which made it better.
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