Hi,

I asked the same question in a possibly incorrect thread for the purpose.
I have a prefab house where the window has been replaced and I feel that it has sagged in the middle, furthermore the window is tightly clamped and the window frame bends inward.

Is the post in the middle load-bearing or rather was the post in the middle of the circled area load-bearing?

Attaching some pictures.
Blueprint section highlighting suspected load-bearing post in window area. Window frame with visible damage; middle area circled in red, indicating concern about structural integrity. Asks if central post is load-bearing. Close-up of a window frame in an element house, showing a gap and potentially sagging middle support post, with insulation and wood visible above.
 
  • Blueprint diagram of a house wall section with a highlighted area. Includes notes on window placement and mentions of load-bearing questions.
At first glance, it undeniably looks like a post has been removed and the window frames have been loaded with the roof load.
But perhaps it's "just" an underdimensioned beam that has had enough?
 
I believe that the beam is the two "boxes" above the window. So, the beam ala prefab house is a box construction, but this is a guess on my part since I can't see that there is space to place a load-bearing beam above the box and under the floor on the second floor. This is without knowing anything for sure.

There is a pole in the drawing (circled) should it be interpreted as load-bearing?

I have read here in the forum that windows or parts of windows (it might have been referring to the post in the middle rather than the window itself) can be load-bearing in prefab houses. It was after reading this that I examined the window more closely.
 
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L-E said:
I think the beam is the two "boxes" above the window.
That might be the case, but a joint in the middle of a beam? What the heck was that designer thinking?
 
Bob_the_builder
If we assume that the window is in a long side wall (i.e. where the rafters are on a typical gable roof) then all wall studs are load-bearing. You cannot remove a stud without offsetting it with a beam.
 
the window is on a long side and the roof is a gable roof, prefabricated house built in 1970

what does one mean by long lip?
 
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In my house, I had load-bearing frames. All windows and window doors were 900 wide, just like all other wall modules. There was no full beam over these, just 900 mm long placed on each stud/frame. It only works as long as you don't remove any of these posts.

It looks the same in your pictures. So check it and replace it with a beam as soon as possible.
 
I will purchase a lifting device and a column tomorrow.
 
What is the kym on the new windows?
 
1.6 m2/window, meaning the opening is 1.6 * 2 m
 
If the old and new windows were/are 10 x 16, then maybe there wasn't a post between the frames?
 
there is a fresh saw cut moreover there is a post marked in the drawing so there was definitely a post there
 
I also live in an Elementhus from Mockfjärd but still can't answer for sure. You have a good starting point since you have better drawings of your house than we do. I recommend you contact the man behind this company for advice. http://www.czbygg.se/menysidor/Elementhusakuten---hjalp_851
He helped us a lot when we had questions about our roof.
 
In our house, many studs are built together with the frames, which has meant that when replacing windows, we've had to cut a stud and splice in a new one. A really dumb construction, but it holds together. In the living room, we have a row of windows that is 7 meters long.

If you're going to splice a stud in the middle, you probably have to replace the window, right?
 
Your old windows were load-bearing. You can clearly see how the old frames/sides extend past the top and bottom parts and replace a standing rule. I have replaced thousands of windows in such houses; it looks exactly the same as in your picture. If it's "only" two windows in width, it usually works well to do as shown in the picture, but it's important to pack them properly so they don't sink. Ideally, you should support them in advance, then install the new windows, and pack them. If there are more windows in a row, you should either install the new (smaller) windows frame-to-frame and keep the standing frame parts, or alternatively, tear down and replace with a calculated beam.
 
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