At the same time, one must also place the ultimate responsibility on the homeowner. If you tear down load-bearing walls based solely on what an unknown person with a clown avatar on the internet said in a fleeting post, then imho you have only yourself to blame.KnockOnWood said:
I thank you for all the help! I just wanted to check with you what you thought, I'm not going to do anything until I have brought someone who knows. So you don't need to criticize each other, all opinions are welcome! Btw where can I get a blueprint of the house? I have no idea where to turn. As mentioned, it's from 1942.
Look who's talking, George Costanza :wow:Nyfniken said:
It's not a clown, it's Ernie serving ink burgers.
I put up a new wall half a meter in, then I tore down the other one. Absolutely nothing happened. It didn't feel like there was any pressure on the wall. For the other wall, I'm just planning to create an opening and install sliding doors.
But as I said, I don't know if it had any load-bearing purpose or not since I haven't consulted an expert. However, moving it half a meter was no problem at all!
A simple way to test if something that is going to be removed is load-bearing is to saw it off with a simple horizontal cut. If the saw binds, it is load-bearing. The sawed-off load-bearing part can, if you are worried, be reinforced with some nail plate until it is replaced with a new load-bearing structure, in our case a laminated beam four times as thick.
Exactly as anna_h explained, I did too. And it was loose so nothing sank! But even if a wall isn't load-bearing, there can still be some pressure on it.
The blue you see is a wind barrier for ventilation. I was a bit panicked to redo the roof because I started in November. There was no ventilation, and several roof trusses were bad. So I had the roof completely open, fixed the bad trusses, and used wind barrier instead of fiberboard because it was faster. Then 2"2 and tongue-and-groove boards. Just as I laid the last row of tiles, the snow came; sometimes, you get lucky
The blue you see is a wind barrier for ventilation. I was a bit panicked to redo the roof because I started in November. There was no ventilation, and several roof trusses were bad. So I had the roof completely open, fixed the bad trusses, and used wind barrier instead of fiberboard because it was faster. Then 2"2 and tongue-and-groove boards. Just as I laid the last row of tiles, the snow came; sometimes, you get lucky
All the way out?
You could insulate and panel the entire roof, eliminating the crawl spaces.
But you should probably not remove the vertical support beams.
If they are properly dimensioned, they definitely serve a function.
By the way, it looks like the carpenters were in a hurry when they laid the roof.
Many nails missed the nearest beam.
I hope the roof doesn't blow away for you. But it's probably been up for a few years
You could insulate and panel the entire roof, eliminating the crawl spaces.
But you should probably not remove the vertical support beams.
If they are properly dimensioned, they definitely serve a function.
By the way, it looks like the carpenters were in a hurry when they laid the roof.
Many nails missed the nearest beam.
I hope the roof doesn't blow away for you. But it's probably been up for a few years
Well, it's been there since '69....
How do I insulate?
I suppose I need some sort of air gap between the insulation and the raw board?
It will be exciting to calculate the project.
The dream is to blow out the entire upstairs and redo the bathroom, etc.
I'm sketching to install a stove (2) one in the kitchen and one in the living room, so I have to figure out the best place for the pipe to go up.
I need to replace the roof in 5-10 years, and I'm thinking maybe I'll install the stoves at the same time.
How do I insulate?
I suppose I need some sort of air gap between the insulation and the raw board?
It will be exciting to calculate the project.
The dream is to blow out the entire upstairs and redo the bathroom, etc.
I'm sketching to install a stove (2) one in the kitchen and one in the living room, so I have to figure out the best place for the pipe to go up.
I need to replace the roof in 5-10 years, and I'm thinking maybe I'll install the stoves at the same time.
The thing about sawing and being satisfied if the saw doesn't pinch. I've heard that sometimes the attic "posts" are not there to absorb compressive force from the roof, but so that the intermediate floor can hang in the roof truss. That is, if you have a slightly too long span on the joist, it gets support by hanging in the roof truss.
Could it also depend on the season?hempularen said:
If there's a lot of snow on the roof, the rafters presumably bend downwards, and the support legs are subjected to a compressive force.
And maybe the opposite situation when there is no snow.
But of course, I don't know anything about building statics