Hello!
I plan to build a wall in my living room to divide it. I'm thinking of screwing the floor piece into the floor. Likewise, the studs that are attached to the wall with screws. The ceiling, however, is a sloped ceiling that meets at an angle in the middle so to speak, and the ceiling consists of gypsum. Where the wall is supposed to go, there are no wooden studs behind the gypsum to attach the ceiling piece to. My thought is that the ceiling piece will be secure if it's attached to the ceiling with several molly screws or similar. There won't be any significant forces to speak of since there will be studs between the sole and the ceiling piece that relieve the ceiling piece from weight. The only force I can imagine affecting such an attachment is if someone rushes full speed into the wall.
I was thinking of using 45*45 with double boards since I want to keep as much room space as possible. Is that sufficient?
So what do you think? Is there even another solution that is better?
I plan to build a wall in my living room to divide it. I'm thinking of screwing the floor piece into the floor. Likewise, the studs that are attached to the wall with screws. The ceiling, however, is a sloped ceiling that meets at an angle in the middle so to speak, and the ceiling consists of gypsum. Where the wall is supposed to go, there are no wooden studs behind the gypsum to attach the ceiling piece to. My thought is that the ceiling piece will be secure if it's attached to the ceiling with several molly screws or similar. There won't be any significant forces to speak of since there will be studs between the sole and the ceiling piece that relieve the ceiling piece from weight. The only force I can imagine affecting such an attachment is if someone rushes full speed into the wall.
I was thinking of using 45*45 with double boards since I want to keep as much room space as possible. Is that sufficient?
So what do you think? Is there even another solution that is better?
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No one has a clue? I've googled without finding anyone with this problem..
I wouldn't do it because plaster doesn't hold very well. Place an OSB board in the ceiling that transfers the forces to the framework.
Glue the ceiling rail with adhesive, and a couple of molly screws. The adhesive distributes forces more evenly and better than screws. Furthermore, I would have used 45x70 in this case. 45x45 otherwise works for partition walls, but in your case, you want all the additional stability you can get.
Is the plasterboard not mounted on studs? If so, then you have more mounting options.
How high will the wall be? 45x45 should work but no higher than about 2700 mm, then it becomes flimsy. Then I would go with what AG A suggests, 45x70.
How high will the wall be? 45x45 should work but no higher than about 2700 mm, then it becomes flimsy. Then I would go with what AG A suggests, 45x70.
You mean that I should tear down a length of plasterboard and replace it with OSB?Thomas_Blekinge said:
Well, maybe there is furring behind it, that sounds reasonable, but I'll have to check first. Otherwise, it will be glue and some molly anchors. Don't know the height exactly, but I'll keep your advice in mind!Villa vista said:
Another thing: sloping ceiling as mentioned, then the wall will go from one outer wall to the other, along the direction of the rafters. But then I will also put a wall in the other direction so it becomes a smaller storage room as well. Then the roof beam will be slanted, so to speak. On one side, you can cut the beam along its length so it aligns with the vertical studs, but on the other side of the beam, there will be a gap between the beam and the plasterboard that will be added later... Does that even matter? Maybe you just take a longer screw that reaches the beam at the top of the ceiling, or do you not even need to screw the plasterboard all the way up?
Haha, I feel like this became a bit hard to understand maybe? Or do you get what I mean? I can draw a picture tomorrow otherwise!
Best regards
If you have plaster in the ceiling, it is most likely attached to lath - If the wall is to be erected in the direction of the roof trusses, the lath is likely perpendicular, which gives you an excellent opportunity to find something to screw into. It's a little more challenging on the other wall at an angle to the first one as you might just end up between two laths.
Drill and use Molly bolts, but there's a high chance you will go through the vapor barrier if the house is of a newer design.
Build the large partition wall first, dress the side facing the future storage with cladding, notch into the wall, or measure out and add an extra stud where the second wall will meet the first. Then secure a stud on the new wall as a foundation for wall no. 2 + a stud on the outer wall. Then you angle screw the top plate into these two and complement with adhesive to the ceiling. It will work perfectly.
If you hit a lath, it's just a matter of screwing into it.
Use a stud finder or the like, considering you need to plaster and paint, so you can test screw where the wall will stand until you find something. However, if there's a vapor barrier, I would choose a stud finder.
Keep in mind that if you are going to insulate in any way, metal studs are better from a sound perspective. Also, look at the Piano Soundboard from Isover for soundproofing.
You are also talking about two sheets per side, and I would say OSB and plasterboard so you can hang something on it without thinking about what you're securing with.
If you use OSB and plasterboard, remember to stagger the joints, i.e., do not align the OSB joints on the same stud on the inside and outside of the wall for as stable a wall as possible. Then offset the plasterboard over the OSB joints...
Drill and use Molly bolts, but there's a high chance you will go through the vapor barrier if the house is of a newer design.
Build the large partition wall first, dress the side facing the future storage with cladding, notch into the wall, or measure out and add an extra stud where the second wall will meet the first. Then secure a stud on the new wall as a foundation for wall no. 2 + a stud on the outer wall. Then you angle screw the top plate into these two and complement with adhesive to the ceiling. It will work perfectly.
If you hit a lath, it's just a matter of screwing into it.
Use a stud finder or the like, considering you need to plaster and paint, so you can test screw where the wall will stand until you find something. However, if there's a vapor barrier, I would choose a stud finder.
Keep in mind that if you are going to insulate in any way, metal studs are better from a sound perspective. Also, look at the Piano Soundboard from Isover for soundproofing.
You are also talking about two sheets per side, and I would say OSB and plasterboard so you can hang something on it without thinking about what you're securing with.
If you use OSB and plasterboard, remember to stagger the joints, i.e., do not align the OSB joints on the same stud on the inside and outside of the wall for as stable a wall as possible. Then offset the plasterboard over the OSB joints...
The house is from the early 1900s but completely renovated. I don't know what a typical ceiling looks like. But the battens are then directly under the plasterboard? And then the vapor barrier is between the battens and the roof trusses?slacker said:
Ok, so I build the long wall first and clad the side that the other wall will form a right angle with using OSB and plasterboard. Then just set a stud in the outer wall and one against the clad wall?
Why not finish all the studs and walls before dressing them with plasterboard? Does it make any practical difference?
And the short wall that sits at a right angle to the long wall will have a ceiling stud sitting in the sloped ceiling, should I then buy a wider ceiling stud so I can saw it to be 90 degrees relative to the floor? It might be a bit tricky at the top of the ceiling stud when fastening the plasterboard otherwise? Maybe it doesn't matter in any case.