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20 replies
10k views
20 replies
Asfa AND wind barrier?
Page 1 of 2
Was completely convinced that it was Asfa OR outdoor gypsum OR perforated metal tape + building paper that applied, but my father wants to add building paper inside the Asfaboard. Right or unnecessary, what does the assembly say?
I was just going to seal the horizontal asfa-joints with building paper and asphalt adhesive...
And add diagonal perforated metal tape despite the asfa for safety, but maybe that's also overkill?
I was just going to seal the horizontal asfa-joints with building paper and asphalt adhesive...
And add diagonal perforated metal tape despite the asfa for safety, but maybe that's also overkill?
If you mean under the panel, then yes.
Common construction from outside to inside:
Panel
Nail battens
Asfa
Stud frame with insulation, e.g., 195X45
Vapor barrier plastic
Stud frame 45X45. Here, among other things, you run the electricity
Gypsum
Wallpaper
Common construction from outside to inside:
Panel
Nail battens
Asfa
Stud frame with insulation, e.g., 195X45
Vapor barrier plastic
Stud frame 45X45. Here, among other things, you run the electricity
Gypsum
Wallpaper
I would settle for just asfaboard. And maybe be a bit careful where joints are not pressed against other materials.
Asfaboard is reasonably waterproof and reasonably diffusion-open.
See page 8 in this PDF.
http://www.student.hv.se/dynamaster...927e0a84fb9848804ac39742/Byggfysik 070820.pdf
Asfaboard is reasonably waterproof and reasonably diffusion-open.
See page 8 in this PDF.
http://www.student.hv.se/dynamaster...927e0a84fb9848804ac39742/Byggfysik 070820.pdf
And to complicate things a little further:
1. In addition to Asfaboard: Wind barrier or Windproof fabric?
2. Wind barrier on the outside of Asfaboard, or inside?
3. If it's Windproof fabric, on the outside or inside of the Asfaboard?
4. Why not tape Asfaboard seams with, for example, Sitko Flex sealing tape? Or does it not adhere well to Asfaboard? Maybe it loosens over time?
1. In addition to Asfaboard: Wind barrier or Windproof fabric?
2. Wind barrier on the outside of Asfaboard, or inside?
3. If it's Windproof fabric, on the outside or inside of the Asfaboard?
4. Why not tape Asfaboard seams with, for example, Sitko Flex sealing tape? Or does it not adhere well to Asfaboard? Maybe it loosens over time?
No response yet, so I'll ask a question.
If there is also an outer insulation layer, i.e., a thinner insulation layer outside the frame, wouldn't it be possible to assemble as follows with desirable results?:
From inside to outside, and I'll skip everything inside the frame:
1. Frame, yes, say 145 studs for example, with 145 insulation then.
2. Windproof membrane
3. Outer insulation layer 45 mm
4. Asfaboard
5. Air gap 28 mm
6. Panel
The windproof membrane would then serve as an extra wind barrier, between the thicker insulation and the thinner outer insulation. Then you have the asfaboard taking the first air currents.
Shouldn't that be extra good, right?
If there is also an outer insulation layer, i.e., a thinner insulation layer outside the frame, wouldn't it be possible to assemble as follows with desirable results?:
From inside to outside, and I'll skip everything inside the frame:
1. Frame, yes, say 145 studs for example, with 145 insulation then.
2. Windproof membrane
3. Outer insulation layer 45 mm
4. Asfaboard
5. Air gap 28 mm
6. Panel
The windproof membrane would then serve as an extra wind barrier, between the thicker insulation and the thinner outer insulation. Then you have the asfaboard taking the first air currents.
Shouldn't that be extra good, right?
Cool thread lift
, but the question is still relevant.
As long as the asfan is joined over the stud, it should handle wind loads well enough. There is a certain risk of water penetration combined with wind leading to moisture in the joints, but I don't think it's really a significant problem.
We have an asfaboard behind our siding. When dismantling windows and siding from the early 80s, the joints at the bottom near the sill (in line with the outer edges of the window) were a bit crumbly but didn't have any functional significance. It was evident that water had seeped in behind the window trim and run along the asfan joints, so this was a worst-case scenario. Behind the siding at the bottom near the sill, there was nothing to comment on. Under the window is always a weak spot, and clearly unnecessary to join the asfan right there (even though it was easier).
In the garage above the garage doors, it is uninsulated and the asfan is joined without stud support in one place. A little moisture has seeped in when the west wind and rain have combined, with emphasis on a little. If there had been either a piece of stud and/or full insulation and a tight wall covering on the inside, I doubt there would have been any penetration.
An extra layer of windproofing I see only as a plus that improves/strengthens and acts as a second line of defense when the first fails, which it normally always does over time. In our house and outbuildings, there is plenty of evidence of various damages to the asfan, such as nail holes, hammer hits/misses, transport/handling damages, etc., all of which are entry points for further destruction as insects and rodents sink their teeth into even the smallest fray/hole/damage. I doubt there are many houses without a single minor defect of this kind. And even if new houses have adequate protection against rodents and insects and moisture, there are often exposures over time, such as during facade renovations, extensions/enlargements/additions, window replacements, etc.
As long as the asfan is joined over the stud, it should handle wind loads well enough. There is a certain risk of water penetration combined with wind leading to moisture in the joints, but I don't think it's really a significant problem.
We have an asfaboard behind our siding. When dismantling windows and siding from the early 80s, the joints at the bottom near the sill (in line with the outer edges of the window) were a bit crumbly but didn't have any functional significance. It was evident that water had seeped in behind the window trim and run along the asfan joints, so this was a worst-case scenario. Behind the siding at the bottom near the sill, there was nothing to comment on. Under the window is always a weak spot, and clearly unnecessary to join the asfan right there (even though it was easier).
In the garage above the garage doors, it is uninsulated and the asfan is joined without stud support in one place. A little moisture has seeped in when the west wind and rain have combined, with emphasis on a little. If there had been either a piece of stud and/or full insulation and a tight wall covering on the inside, I doubt there would have been any penetration.
An extra layer of windproofing I see only as a plus that improves/strengthens and acts as a second line of defense when the first fails, which it normally always does over time. In our house and outbuildings, there is plenty of evidence of various damages to the asfan, such as nail holes, hammer hits/misses, transport/handling damages, etc., all of which are entry points for further destruction as insects and rodents sink their teeth into even the smallest fray/hole/damage. I doubt there are many houses without a single minor defect of this kind. And even if new houses have adequate protection against rodents and insects and moisture, there are often exposures over time, such as during facade renovations, extensions/enlargements/additions, window replacements, etc.
What do you think about my example then? That is, having asfaboard outermost, and windproof fabric 45 mm inside with 45 insulation in between. Citing my own post:Oldboy said:
An extra layer of windproofing I see only as a plus that improves/strengthens and acts as a second line of defense when the first fails, which it normally always does over time. In our house and outbuildings, there is plenty of evidence of various damages from asfan, such as nail holes, hammer strikes/misses, transport/handling damages, etc., which all serve as entry points for further destruction by insects and rodents that set their teeth into the slightest scratch/hole/damage. I doubt there are many houses without a single minor defect of this kind. And even if new houses have a complete protection against rodents and insects and moisture, there are usually gaps over time, such as during facade renovations, modifications/extensions/additions, window replacements, etc.
"From inside to outside and I'll skip everything inside the frame:
1. Frame, let's say 145 studs, for example, with 145 insulation then.
2. Windproof fabric
3. Outer insulation layer 45 mm
4. Asfaboard
5. Air gap 28 mm
6. Panel"