I'm building a staircase and need suggestions for suitable brackets and screws to attach the treads to the stringers and the risers to the treads.

The plan is to screw the treads from underneath with a 90-degree bracket against the stringers and attach the risers and treads in the same way. (The steps are resting on the stringers, they are not recessed.)

In the worst-case scenario, I can make the brackets from aluminum angle profiles, but it would be nice to have something ready-made.

Regarding the screws, anchor screws would be ideal, but they are a bit long. Is there anything suitable when the material is between 20-40 mm?
 
Eh... you don't just mean regular angle brackets, do you? Alternatively, furniture angles... it's fine to fasten angle brackets with regular wood screws with round heads, just make sure to choose the right length/dim...
 
I probably mean that, I've only seen building angles and they don't fit so well.

Regarding the screw, I would like a recommendation for a screw with a really good grip.
 
Can't you just take a piece of läkt or something and lay the treads on it? Instead of a bunch of angles.
 
You can angle screw the treads on the inside of the vangstycket, since they rest on top.
And the upper side of the risers with a furniture angle against the overlying tread, alternatively angle screw there as well, depending on how much overhang you have on the treads.
And the lower side of the risers is screwed straight through into the tread?
 
How do you make a proper indoor staircase?
 
Can't you buy a Domino and mill some slots?
 
MathiasS said:
How do you make a proper indoor staircase?
On a proper staircase, you mill grooves into the sides of the stringers for the steps. It's a bit too advanced for me and my equipment.

I prefer not to screw through the treads from the top, and there's also a risk it won't be stiff enough if the steps want to warp.

Screw driving probably won't hold either; there's a risk I'll split the stringers.

The fittings I envision are perhaps 20 cm long, angled at 90 degrees with flanges of about 2-3 cm.

Attaching a picture of the construction. The steps in the picture are temporary; it will become Gotland kärnvirke in due course.
 
  • Temporary wooden staircase under construction, with visible risers and tread supports. Surrounding area shows construction tools and materials.
Sturdy träplugg?
 
Regarding anchor screws, unfortunately, they don't hold any better than any other screw. Buy any screw with the right thickness and length for the fittings.

And instead of fittings, maybe you can just screw and glue a type of batten in the stringer and place the step on it.
 
Mikael_L
4 angles under each step then? Vinkelbeslag.jpg

You will probably have a hard time getting a staircase free from creaking, in any case. :|
 
I'll consider battens for the treads if I can't find suitable brackets. It will certainly be cheaper if nothing else.

For the risers, I'll probably have grooves routed into them for the treads and then glue and screw them (after pre-drilling) from behind.

If anyone is wondering, I've custom-ordered the stringers from a carpentry factory. It's not something you just glue and cut yourself without further ado. 5 meters long with a precision of 0.1 mm. There will be a closet underneath that stabilizes the otherwise rather delicate construction.
 
Mikael_L said:
4 angles under each step then?
[bild]

You will probably have a hard time making a staircase free from creaks, in any case. :|
It absolutely must not creak! There will be a lot of gluing and screwing done here!
 
Aha, didn’t know it was such a serious build. Thought it was some outdoor stairs with a few steps.
There are ready-made stairs of this model available for purchase, but I don't know how they assemble them.

What are you planning to treat the surface with?
Otherwise, it's probably counterbore and wood plug that work well, drill out plug from the same type of wood you're making the steps from.. (what's it called in Swedish?).

(I saw that you didn't want to screw from above.)
If you're worried about the steps twisting/warping, maybe a longer 90-degree aluminum strip is better.
Cut to the right length, and drill some holes, countersink. Shouldn't be any major issue.
 
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