Alternative to gypsum to handle larger CC measurements? (Concerning basement)

[Anders.83]

Hi! I'm working on enclosing the pipes in the basement in a "box" and have a few ideas to discuss.

The problem I've encountered is that the row of pipes means the distance between the studs will be a maximum of CC80, so drywall directly is ruled out.

Usually, the obvious choice would be to install battens between the studs and then attach the drywall to these. But the 2.8cm that the battens add would make the finish against the door less attractive, so I'm looking for alternatives.

Adding additional studs between the pipes is possible but would be difficult since it's tight to reach between them, and the CC measurements would still slightly exceed recommendations (~40-45).

So I'm wondering if there are alternatives to drywall that can handle a larger CC measurement without risking bending over time? Does anyone have experience with other sheet materials? For example, would MDF be able to handle CC80 in a horizontal position?

Or is adding battens between the studs the only proper solution?

 

[Mazen]

Glue double layers of drywall.
Alternatively OSB/plywood + drywall.

It still looks like you should be able to fit a thinner stud between the pipes so the center-to-center distance becomes smaller, which is good whether you use single or double panels.

 

[Bart]

Everything will sag a little over time. But if you don't have fire protection requirements, you can use plywood or OSB, for example. It will sag significantly less than plasterboard. MDF would likely be very heavy.

I don't know if Huntonit has ceiling panels with a cc of 800 mm? They have with a cc of 600 mm.

 

[Aunty]

why don't you just mount a hat profile between the studs and then put gypsum on it and the problem is solved?

 

[Anders.83]

Glue double layers of gypsum.
Alternatively, OSB/plywood + gypsum.

It still looks like you should be able to fit a thinner stud between the pipes so the center-to-center distance becomes smaller, which is good whether you use single or double boards.

Leaning towards adding another stud, but even then the largest distance would be ~450.

Do you have experience with double gypsum, sounds interesting?

Over time, everything will bulge a little. But if you don't have fire protection requirements, you can use plywood or OSB for example. It will bulge significantly less than gypsum. MDF might become very heavy.

I don't know if Huntonit has ceiling boards with a 800 mm center-to-center? They have with 600 mm.

Are there any guidelines for OSB/Plywood regarding what center-to-center they could support?

Looked a bit at Huntonit, but as you said, can't find anything that supports 600.

 

[Anders.83]

why don't you just mount a hat profile between the studs and then drywall over it, and the problem is solved?

Unsure about what is meant by "hat profile," guessing it's a stud between the studs and an anchoring in the ceiling?

Ruled this out as it would need to be built up in height to make it work since the studs are edge-to-edge with the pipe that protrudes lowest.

There were many solutions that are easier than what I'm leaning towards (more studs and double boards), but the centimeters count due to the door.

 

[Mazen]

Do you have experience with double gypsum, sounds interesting.

Only from building a slot around a standing drainpipe, where I glued together a box with double layers of gypsum (I think I combed out a flooring adhesive between the boards and regular setting glue for the joints), but it became rigid. And no screws were used. If you can fit a slimmer stud in between, I would go for it... in the worst case you can glue on another board.

If it's really tight in terms of dimensions, maybe a k-plyfa 12 mm with a glued 6mm repgips could be an option. (The gypsum I think of for easier painting/wallpapering. Alternatively, if you can skip the gypsum altogether and use a thicker cover fabric.)

 

[Aunty]

Uncertain about what is meant by "hat profile," guessing it's the rule between the studs and an anchoring in the ceiling?

Ruled this out as it would need to be built up in height to make it work since the studs are edge-to-edge with the pipe that protrudes the lowest.

There were many solutions that are easier than what I'm leaning towards (more studs and double boards), but the centimeters matter with the door.

but what you lose with a hat profile or spacing is 25mm and you get a construction that works excellently.
besides, you practically lose less anyway since you were thinking of using double plasterboard.
Then hat profile + 1 layer of plasterboard builds 12mm more than 2 layers of plasterboard.

 

[prototypen]

Isn't it possible to place a longitudinal beam between the pipes attached to the ceiling?
Protte

 

[z_bumbi]

I guess that Ultraboard works but I haven't checked it. If not, you can attach brackets that protrude between the pipes and screw directly through the board.

 

[raveper]

Can't you use 22mm råspont as gles? And cc 30.

 

[nino]

Screw the gypsum at cc800, it will probably work well with that too

 

[Anders.83]

I ended up splitting some studs and bracing between the pipes. Even if the dimensions aren't ideal, I think they still provide some relief. Let's just keep our fingers crossed that it works in the long run. Thanks for all the responses.