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Additional thread about tiles and chipboard
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Member
· Västra Götaland
· 245 posts
I've read a bit about this and understand that there are plenty of disadvantages to tiling on live materials. I've made some changes in the kitchen and for several reasons, it has to be OSB that is tiled on. Getting drywall in is not an option.
I've understood that tile adhesive is the key. What other tips are there on this? I read something about putting wet room wallpaper behind to help. Is there anything that can be treated/painted on the OSB to help it survive/adhere better? Building out from the wall more than 1-2mm (besides tile with adhesive) is not an option. Regarding the grout, if it wants to move a bit, it would be nice if there was a more elastic/softer grout, I guess?
So yes, I understand that many would want to answer "use drywall," but now the question is "how is the best way to tile if the substrate is OSB?"
Edit: Perhaps there is a special form of tile that is more suitable, are large or small tiles preferable...?
I've understood that tile adhesive is the key. What other tips are there on this? I read something about putting wet room wallpaper behind to help. Is there anything that can be treated/painted on the OSB to help it survive/adhere better? Building out from the wall more than 1-2mm (besides tile with adhesive) is not an option. Regarding the grout, if it wants to move a bit, it would be nice if there was a more elastic/softer grout, I guess?
So yes, I understand that many would want to answer "use drywall," but now the question is "how is the best way to tile if the substrate is OSB?"
Edit: Perhaps there is a special form of tile that is more suitable, are large or small tiles preferable...?
Last edited:
Moderator
· Stockholm
· 57 843 posts
I seem to remember that OSB has a wax coating on the surface, which would imply a risk that it adheres exceptionally poorly to it.
I don't think it will work at all
I don't understand why you renovate and then still do it in a way that you know isn't good...
If you don't know and make a mistake, that's one thing, but to know and still ignore it...
I plastered on an OSB with wet room filler and was going to sand it the next day, then the whole plaster cake fell down, so we primed with weave glue, then it worked
I don't understand why you renovate and then still do it in a way that you know isn't good...
If you don't know and make a mistake, that's one thing, but to know and still ignore it...
I plastered on an OSB with wet room filler and was going to sand it the next day, then the whole plaster cake fell down, so we primed with weave glue, then it worked
Yes, there is a good proverb for thisnino said:I don't think it will work at all I don't understand why one remodels and then still does it in a way that is known not to be good... If you don't know and make a mistake, that's one thing, but to know and still ignore it... I applied plaster on an OSB with wet room filler and was going to sand it the next day when the whole plaster layer fell off, then we primed with fabric glue, and then it worked
- If you're gonna go wrong, do it with confidence
Fibo-trespo kitchen panel might be an alternative instead
I think the problem will be getting the fix to adhere well to the surface; primer doesn't solve everything.
Do you mean silicon sealant? All sealants today are more or less flexible, as is the fix, but it's still a cement product.
If it adheres to the board, S48 would probably be the best choice.
Do you mean silicon sealant? All sealants today are more or less flexible, as is the fix, but it's still a cement product.
If it adheres to the board, S48 would probably be the best choice.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
I have had two instances where tiles have come loose from chipboard, the third time I switched to gypsum and we'll see.
The grout held so you could lift away 4 tiles at a time.
Protte
The grout held so you could lift away 4 tiles at a time.
Protte
If you're going to cheat with wood substrates, why not do it like when plastering on wood in the past? Buy plaster mesh and staple it up with tight stapling. The adhesive sticks to the mesh that hangs in the staples.
I myself did a real quick renovation of the kitchen tiles, and glued oak veneer flooring onto the old tiles. It turned out really well. Long "planks" with a 30cm width.
A budget-fibo-trespo-solution, you might say. A new kitchen for a few hundred kronor. Yes, and a new countertop was added as well.
A budget-fibo-trespo-solution, you might say. A new kitchen for a few hundred kronor. Yes, and a new countertop was added as well.
But what is really the problem? You can just try tiling on the OSB board. If it works, it works, if it doesn't, you've only wasted a couple of hours of work and need to redo it.
Suggest the following: go over the OSB board with 40 sandpaper to remove any wax. Prime. Tile with tile adhesive. Grout with regular tile grout.
Suggest the following: go over the OSB board with 40 sandpaper to remove any wax. Prime. Tile with tile adhesive. Grout with regular tile grout.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
The problem is that OSB/particleboard shrinks and swells alternately and breaks the fix. The first year it stays solid as a rock, but in 5-10 years it might fall down.
Protte
Protte
No, you might as well go for it, if it works it works....f91jsw said:But what is really the problem? You can just try tiling on the OSB board. If it works, it works, if it doesn't, then you've only spent a few hours of work unnecessarily and will have to redo it.
I suggest the following: go over the OSB board with 40-grit sandpaper to remove any wax. Prime. Tile with tile adhesive. Grout with regular tile grout.
But if you're renovating, I think you should do it as properly as you can.
