70mm or 95mm studs for built-in double sliding door?

[Alejandra L.]

Hello!!
I am going to order a double sliding door to be installed recessed into an existing non-load-bearing wall in old concrete (probably a precursor to blue concrete) in an apartment built in the 40s. The pocket frame can be ordered with 70mm studs or 95mm studs. The craftsman who will do the work is on vacation and cannot be reached. Since there is up to 8 weeks delivery time, I would like to make the order as soon as possible. But, which should I order? with 70 or 95 mm studs? What does the difference in mm mean in practice? That is, how does it affect the construction?
Thank you so much in advance for all the help I can get!!
/Alejandra

 

[Heij83]

How thick is the wall?

 

[Alejandra L.]

How thick is the wall?

How thick is the wall?

Hi Heij 83!
198 mm including a layer of wallpaper on each side of the wall.
/Alejandra

 

[Rickard.]

Since your wall is likely thicker than both options, it doesn't matter that much as neither will fit directly and some form of extension will be needed.

 

[Heij83]

It should be noted that I'm not a carpenter.
But I would have ordered the wider frame if you are going to keep the existing wall, that way there will be less material needed to extend the frame to reach the wall.

 

[PappasHammare]

What differs is the width of the board/trim that the door closes against and the trims on the side of the pocket frame.

I guess with such a wide wall, you wouldn't use the strike board but set your own...
And if it were me building, I would have just bought a track and a door leaf to then build it in myself.

 

[PatrikJo]

A non-load-bearing wall at 198 mm? That sounds quite generous. Is there not a waste pipe or something running through the wall?

 

[hapazard]

The difference is the width of the board/strip that the door closes against and the strips on the side of the pocket frame.

Guess that with such a thick wall you won't use the strike board but will place your own...
And if it were me building it, I would just buy a track and a door leaf to then build it in myself.

Yep.

Hi!!
I'm going to order a double sliding door to be installed built-in on an existing non-load-bearing wall in old concrete (probably the predecessor to blue concrete) in an apartment built in the 40s. The pocket frame can be ordered with 70mm studs or 95mm studs. The craftsman who's going to do the job is on vacation and can't be reached. Since there's up to 8 weeks delivery time, I'd like to place the order as soon as possible. But, which one should I order? with 70 or 95 mm studs? What does the difference in mm mean in practice? That is, how does it affect the construction?
Thank you so much in advance for any help I can get!!
/Alejandra

Keep in mind that the pocket frame may need to be placed on top of existing studs. Buying a separate track and door leaf makes it much simpler to insert a thin construction.

 

[Alejandra L.]

A non-load-bearing wall at 198 mm? That sounds quite substantial. Is there no drainpipe or anything in the wall?

Hi Patrik Jo,
You're absolutely right. I measured again, now with a much better tool (designed for this), and found that the wall is 100 mm thick.
/Alejandra

 

[Rickard.]

Hi Patrik Jo,
You're absolutely right. I measured again, now with a much better tool (designed for such), and confirm that the wall is 100 mm thick.
/Alejandra

Then you must of course choose 70mm.

 

[Alejandra L.]

Yep.

Keep in mind that the pocket frame might need to be placed outside existing studs. If you buy a loose track and door leaf, it's much easier to recess a thin construction.

Hi Hapazard,
Your suggestion sounds interesting. If I follow it, how much thicker should the studs be in relation to the track?
/Alejandra

 

[Alejandra L.]

Since your wall is likely thicker than both alternatives, it doesn't make a huge difference as nothing will fit directly and some form of salning will be needed.

Hi Rickard,
What is salning?
/Alejandra

 

[hapazard]

Hello!!
I am going to order a double sliding door to be installed recessed in an existing non-load bearing wall made of old concrete (probably a precursor to blue concrete) in an apartment built in the 1940s. The pocket frame can be ordered with 70mm studs or 95 mm studs. The contractor who will do the work is on vacation and cannot be reached. Since delivery can take up to 8 weeks, I would like to place the order as soon as possible. But, which one should I order? With 70 or 95 mm studs? What does the difference in mm mean in practice? That is, how does it affect the construction?
Many thanks in advance for all the help I can get!!
/Alejandra

Hi Hapazard,
Your suggestion sounds interesting. If I go with it, how much thicker should the studs be in relation to the rail?
/Alejandra

They can be thin, like the door leaf's thickness + a few cm for some margin around.

 

[Alejandra L.]

The difference is the width of the board/trim that the door closes against and the trims on the side of the pocket frame.

I guess with such a wide wall, you won't use the stop board but will set your own...
And if it were me building, I would just buy a track and a door leaf to then build it in myself.

Hi HappasHammar,
Your suggestion sounds interesting. If I follow it, how much thicker should the rules be in relation to the track?
/Alejandra

 

[hapazard]

Hi Rickard,
What is salning?
/Alejandra

Molding, etc., around the frame.