Hello everyone,
You are reading the words of happy amateurs here, and we encountered (unsurprisingly) some surprises when we "just" wanted to saw a doorway in a non-bearing wall. There had previously been a door in the wall, which was confirmed when we started sawing and found a completely intact old door frame. We want to put in a module that is 13.3x21, but the current door frame is significantly smaller, so we sawed and tore it down. Our hope was, of course, to be met by nice studs, but instead, we face plaster and probably lekablock. The surface layers don't seem to be more than fiberglass wallpaper, so the question is - how do we continue to "saw" the door opening and how do we attach new studs for the door frame?
You are reading the words of happy amateurs here, and we encountered (unsurprisingly) some surprises when we "just" wanted to saw a doorway in a non-bearing wall. There had previously been a door in the wall, which was confirmed when we started sawing and found a completely intact old door frame. We want to put in a module that is 13.3x21, but the current door frame is significantly smaller, so we sawed and tore it down. Our hope was, of course, to be met by nice studs, but instead, we face plaster and probably lekablock. The surface layers don't seem to be more than fiberglass wallpaper, so the question is - how do we continue to "saw" the door opening and how do we attach new studs for the door frame?
Hi Tompafix,T Tompafix said:
The condominium was built in the late 40s - so above us are our neighbors. We are not entirely sure about the module size, but the width on the "outside" of the door frame is 82 cm wide and just over 2 meters high, so probably 8x21 in module size.
You should probably check with the association if you are allowed to make such a modification. The wall might be load-bearing. It's also difficult to determine what material it is. If you're unlucky, it's blåbetong which contains radon. You shouldn't tear it down just like that.
Best answer
Provided that it is a non-load-bearing wall made of lightweight clinker/slag plates or lightweight concrete, the easiest way to create the opening is with a reciprocating saw with a blade intended for lightweight clinker. If it's brick, then use a saw with a diamond blade.
Be prepared that the masonry above the door opening may fall if you widen it as much as to 13 module, there is probably no beam there today, and the old frame acted as a "beam" to hold up the blocks against the joists. The frame was probably bricked together with the door, where the nail was placed between the courses and "caulked" with mortar.
You don't need studs for the door frame, frame screws and plugs work perfectly fine. If it becomes too uneven, you can apply some plaster and smooth it out with a straightedge so it's reasonably flat for the frame screws. Personally, I caulk interior doors in masonry with foam sealant, it feels more secure and the installation feels more rigid.
Be prepared that the masonry above the door opening may fall if you widen it as much as to 13 module, there is probably no beam there today, and the old frame acted as a "beam" to hold up the blocks against the joists. The frame was probably bricked together with the door, where the nail was placed between the courses and "caulked" with mortar.
You don't need studs for the door frame, frame screws and plugs work perfectly fine. If it becomes too uneven, you can apply some plaster and smooth it out with a straightedge so it's reasonably flat for the frame screws. Personally, I caulk interior doors in masonry with foam sealant, it feels more secure and the installation feels more rigid.
Hi KjellTimell!K KjellTimell said:
Many thanks for your help
According to the guide, it is non-load-bearing! Thanks for the great tips - is there any way to prevent the masonry above the door opening from collapsing? Because that's exactly the feeling we got that it's going to do
. Your description of how the door frame was installed sounds exactly as it looks! Our reciprocating saw is battery-powered 18 volts - can it handle the task with the right type of blade?
The solution you describe feels reassuring - THANK YOU!
Blåbetong does not contain radon, it emits radon. Radon is a gas.T Tompafix said:
No. Radon is a gas. It is produced through radioactive decay of other substances (that are not radon) present in the material.T Tompafix said:
It's the alum shale in the blue concrete that contains radium, and when radium decays, Radon gas is formed, as well as gamma radiation. The amount of Radon gas & gamma radiation formed depends on where the alum shale comes from.T Tompafix said:
https://www.stralsakerhetsmyndigheten.se/omraden/radon/vad-ar-radon/radonkallor-i-inomhusluften/
Well, I think the safest is to take down the masonry. If you were just changing the frame, it would work, the blocks lock quite well into each other. But since you are increasing the span, I would address it at once, instead of later when everything is "finished."T Tofe said:Hello KjellTimell!
Many thanks for your help
According to the association, it is non-load bearing! Thanks for the good tips - is there any way to prevent the masonry above the door frame from collapsing? Because that was exactly the feeling we got that it is going to do
Your description of how the door frame is installed sounds exactly like it looks! Our reciprocating saw is battery powered 18 volts - does it have the power for the task with the right type of blade?
The solution you describe feels safe - THANK YOU!
You can place a horizontal plank and prop it up until you have cut the wall, then assess if it will hold.
If it won't hold, you can leave the plank and cut the lintel in "blocks" and take it down in somewhat controlled forms, then remove the prop/support.
The simplest is to frame a new lintel and plasterboard it. Then fill until the walls align with each other.
Yes, if it's lightweight concrete, slag blocks, or aerated concrete then that reciprocating saw will work fine, I am convinced of that. Some battery change/charging might be required. These materials are very porous and easy to saw through. Not much force is required.