Hello
We are going to extend our house this summer/fall by 67 m2. For our part, it will mostly be painting work, while the contractor builds the rest. However, I'm wondering if it's possible to buy pre-whitewashed paneling for the ceiling (vaulted ceiling), double tongue and groove paneling that is between 18 and 22 mm thick.
Anyone have any tips on this???
We are going to extend our house this summer/fall by 67 m2. For our part, it will mostly be painting work, while the contractor builds the rest. However, I'm wondering if it's possible to buy pre-whitewashed paneling for the ceiling (vaulted ceiling), double tongue and groove paneling that is between 18 and 22 mm thick.
Anyone have any tips on this???
We put this kind all over our ceiling..
http://www.siljan.com/8c-panel_produkt1.asp
It's stain-painted, but it almost looks a bit waxed.. Personally, I don't really like whitewashed, I think it easily looks a bit pink and also yellows over time. Apparently, the one I linked to is much more colorfast. Ours has been up for 3 years now and it has the exact same shade as when it was new..
The price was (as I recall) just over 110kr/sqm.
http://www.siljan.com/8c-panel_produkt1.asp
It's stain-painted, but it almost looks a bit waxed.. Personally, I don't really like whitewashed, I think it easily looks a bit pink and also yellows over time. Apparently, the one I linked to is much more colorfast. Ours has been up for 3 years now and it has the exact same shade as when it was new..
The price was (as I recall) just over 110kr/sqm.
Thanks for all the answers.
Interesting with white wax etc. as an alternative to whitewashing. I do NOT want it to yellow, so I need to check this...
The one bought at Byggmax, do you mean the one that was 15mm thick? We need at least 18mm, preferably 22mm for it to properly support the insulation, we have been told.
Best regards, Anna
Interesting with white wax etc. as an alternative to whitewashing. I do NOT want it to yellow, so I need to check this...
The one bought at Byggmax, do you mean the one that was 15mm thick? We need at least 18mm, preferably 22mm for it to properly support the insulation, we have been told.
Best regards, Anna
Is it completely out of the question to do it yourself?
It goes really quickly to glaze it yourself, and if you can just stand outside and handle the wood, it can be done in a day. It dries quickly too, so if you do it now, the wood can dry a bit before it is nailed up.
It goes really quickly to glaze it yourself, and if you can just stand outside and handle the wood, it can be done in a day. It dries quickly too, so if you do it now, the wood can dry a bit before it is nailed up.
:
We were supposed to paint the panel ourselves, but we changed our minds when we found pre-stained panels at a cheaper price (at Byggmax) than what our contractor had included in the estimate. Now, it wasn't the right thickness, but that got us thinking along these lines. Painting all the exterior panels, etc., might be enough, we thought, but you might be right that it's easily done and cheaper in the long run.
Best regards, Anna
We were supposed to paint the panel ourselves, but we changed our minds when we found pre-stained panels at a cheaper price (at Byggmax) than what our contractor had included in the estimate. Now, it wasn't the right thickness, but that got us thinking along these lines. Painting all the exterior panels, etc., might be enough, we thought, but you might be right that it's easily done and cheaper in the long run.
Best regards, Anna
Borrowing the thread and expanding a bit: those of you who have applied glaze yourselves - have you used knot sealer first? Does it work well without, or do you get unavoidable yellow spots from the resin after a year? I can't imagine that the pre-glazed panel is "knot-treated" to begin with...
Usually, battens are nailed onto the rafters onto which the panel is then nailed = 22+15 mm. Nailing directly into the rafters with a span of up to 120 cm but using small thin nails like those for the panel and then loading on, in our case, 45 cm of insulation seems risky. The thicknesses you mention aren't standard roof panels…but anything's possible.
; both spruce and pine contain resins which cause them to yellow over time when exposed to sunlight. Spruce yellows significantly less than pine, however. Pine panels, on the other hand, tend to have a smoother surface since they don't rise as much during planing and coating. This doesn't make much difference unless you choose a profile with a lot of surface area that you can’t easily finish (which they do during the coating at the factory).
I have just ordered a pre-coated spruce tongue and groove panel...doing the coating yourself saves money, but with pre-coated, you save time
…besides, there's always a lot of dirt in the air (pollen and who knows what), so we didn't think painting outside was an option due to lack of space.