Thin inner wall without holes in the floor?

[Svae]

Hello!

I'm looking to set up a thin interior wall without having to nail/screw into the floor (parquet). It's a "temporary wall" to divide a larger room as I need a room-within-a-room. No problem if there is impact on the walls and ceiling.

One wish is if it also allows for a "window" (glass pane) for light intake.

Sound insulation is not the highest priority.

"Press-fit wall"?

ALL suggestions are gratefully received!

 

[Ola78]

Screw in the ceiling joist and the wall studs, attach the sill with angle brackets to the wall studs. Then just insert the studs you need, screw them diagonally into the sill so you don't damage the floor, or attach them with angle brackets, apply the sheet material, fill and wallpaper................done.

edit: by wall studs I meant the method Mikael_L prescribes if I was unclear:blushing:

 

[Mikael_L]

Between the floor and the floor joist (syll), I would use double-sided tape, the kind with a few mm thick foam core. Think adhesive pads. However, I'm not sure where to buy it.

Then I would install the vertical studs with tension, so the foam compresses.

And if it doesn't damage the walls, I would drive screws in the middle and at the bottom of the stud that sits against the walls. Yes, maybe more screws, but at a minimum.

edit:
Otherwise, I agree with Ola78.

 

[Svae]

Sounds very interesting!

How do you tension the vertical studs? A bit too long and force them in?

Another aspect I didn't think of when writing this is that it's a corner that I'm going to partition from the room. This means it becomes an "outer corner," but maybe it will still work since I can set studs in the ceiling/walls and can "tension" with vertical ones...?

Does it work with 45mm studs or do I need 70mm? I have very little room for a bed to fit in the space, just want to check my options.

Thank you for your involvement!!!

 

[Hubbe2]

possibly you can pinch the lower hammer beam with slightly too long studs up to the ceiling, which are struck into place. Then the boards and such hold everything in place.

 

[Hubbe2]

it will probably be even better with a corner.
Then the wall braces itself in both directions.
The only thing is the small "flap" that can become wobbly which is the wall with the door hole if you don't get a good tension on the nearest stud. Or if you can live with a little threshold.

45s should suffice since you're going to have boards on anyway. BUT I would use 70x45 and put the long side outwards, at least for those that need to be under tension. 45x45 might be weak.

 

[Ola78]

I'm not quite sure I understand how you intend to divide the room, maybe you could post a small picture? As for the vertical studs, cut them a few mm longer than they need to be to get them under tension. The dimensions for the frame should probably be 45*70; 45*45 risks being too wobbly.

 

[Svae]

Ok, it doesn't sound like there should be any problems fixing this. Shouldn't take too long, excluding the surface layer, etc.

45*70 with a 45 mm wide wall, in other words? Sounds like a good way to get a little more stability without the wall becoming wider. Smart!

Ola78: Basically, you could say that I'm going to make a smaller square room in one of the corners of a larger room. Is that easier to understand?

 

[Mikael_L]

Sounds very interesting!

How do you set the vertical studs under tension? A bit too long and force them in?

Yep. If it's that springy tape I suggested, then an extra mm might be good, otherwise it's probably a bit less. Access to an electric miter saw is nice, and then sand down a tenth at a time until it feels snug to knock in, you shouldn't need to use much force. Then dry/non-dry wood might be an issue. It's advantageous if you buy the studs and let them sit indoors for a few weeks, if you can. Wood shrinks less along the grain.

Another aspect I didn't think about when I wrote this is that it's a corner I'm going to partition off from the room. This means it will be an "outer corner," but maybe it works anyway since I can set studs in the ceiling/walls and "tension" with verticals...?

Should work. Be a bit more meticulous with fixing the stud in the corner, and it can have higher clamping force than the others. Here you'll have at least two studs to attach the panels to. Take, for example, a 120mm and a 45mm and screw them together into an L.

Does it work with 45mm studs or do I need 70mm? I have very small margins for a bed to fit in the space, just want to check my options.

It works. The wall will be relatively weak. But even with wider studs, it's not anchored well to the floor, etc. You'll just have to accept that it won't be a fully adequate wall. Two electrical boxes opposite each other on either side won't fit in a wall with 45x45mm.

 

[Ola78]

I started thinking a bit and I understand now how you were thinking, it's just that I'm starting to get a bit foggy in the head.....sorry:S

 

[Alfredo]

Between the floor and the floor beam (sill), I would use double-sided tape, the kind with a few mm thick foam core. Think mounting squares.

I'm not sure if you can remove the tape without a trace when you need to take down the wall again. That kind of tape tends to stick quite firmly and, in the worst case, can "bond" with the lacquered surface of the parquet. Sure, it might work, but I wouldn't dare if it's important that the parquet remains unaffected.

 

[Hubbe2]

I would not use tape. If you clamp the lower hammer strap with the studs, it will hold like hell anyway.
Just keep in mind that the stud that clamps the most should be the outer corner. Here, an L-profile of 120x45 and 45x45 was a very good idea.

 

[Svae]

For a novice, hammarband = regel? In this case, the horizontal rule?

I had thought a bit and didn't think such a "simple" solution would work, but am now convinced. This also means that putting in an interior door and some kind of window won't be a problem since I have träreglar (thought for a while that plåtreglar were an issue...).

If I skip the tape, should I have some kind of foam (for example, what is used when laying click flooring) anyway? I imagine it protects the floor a bit but still shouldn't make the base "slippery" for the reglar.

Follow-up question: Does a door frame work when the wall is so thin? How thick is a door frame, are there different types?

 

[Ola78]

For a novice, hammarband = beam? In this case, the horizontal beam?

If I skip the tape, should I still use some kind of foam (for example, the kind used when laying click-lock flooring)? I imagine it protects the floor a bit but still shouldn't make the foundation "slippery" for the beams.

Follow-up question: Does a door frame work when the wall is so narrow? How thick is a door frame, are there different types?

Hammarband is the upper horizontal beam in a wall, and the lower one is called a sill.

It doesn't hurt to put something in between to protect the floor, so you can lay the foam used for click-lock flooring or place a strip of gray cardboard.

It will probably be difficult with a door frame if you have a wall that is only 45 mm + plasterboard on both sides; it will only be 71 mm in total, and I recall that a frame is usually 95 mm, which you get with a 70 mm beam wall + plaster.

 

[Mattias_Jo1]

There are 63mm and 93mm karmar!