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Tips for solving door trim at dishwasher
Hello,
between the kitchen and the laundry room, I have a folding door. I want to remove this door and replace it with a regular interior door. Installing an interior door is not a problem.
The issue I foresee arises when I need to add door moldings. The dishwasher door will hit the nearest molding when it's opened. It's simply too tight.
Check the attached images.
Any tips on how I can solve this?
between the kitchen and the laundry room, I have a folding door. I want to remove this door and replace it with a regular interior door. Installing an interior door is not a problem.
The issue I foresee arises when I need to add door moldings. The dishwasher door will hit the nearest molding when it's opened. It's simply too tight.
Check the attached images.
Any tips on how I can solve this?
Hobby carpenter
· Västra Götaland
· 1 496 posts
How thick is the wall? The frame is about 90-95mm deep. You can't align it with the kitchen wall; instead, it needs to align with whatever is behind the door. The thinnest molding you can buy is 8mm, but you can of course split a casing with a table saw to about 3mm, and that would fit.
As mentioned, the thinnest frame is 68mm. If, for example, your wall is 95, you align the frame with the wall inside the laundry room, so you can butt the moldings on the kitchen side against the door opening instead of having them rest on the outside of the wall.
However, considering the type of door currently installed, one might assume that your wall isn't thick enough for this to be an option.
An alternative is to do as in the example above but let the frame extend slightly into the laundry room, solving the problem there instead. Either with moldings or perhaps building out the wall.
Otherwise, sealant solves a lot. Skip the moldings and seal/paint everything. The risk is that it might crack over time, but you can just apply another round of sealant. Or use Tec7 instead of sealant. That way, you probably avoid the cracking issue, but the door will be difficult to remove the day it needs to be done
However, considering the type of door currently installed, one might assume that your wall isn't thick enough for this to be an option.
An alternative is to do as in the example above but let the frame extend slightly into the laundry room, solving the problem there instead. Either with moldings or perhaps building out the wall.
Otherwise, sealant solves a lot. Skip the moldings and seal/paint everything. The risk is that it might crack over time, but you can just apply another round of sealant. Or use Tec7 instead of sealant. That way, you probably avoid the cracking issue, but the door will be difficult to remove the day it needs to be done
A Albans doktor said:As mentioned, the thinnest frame is 68mm. If your wall, for example, is 95, you align the frame with the wall inside the laundry room, then you can fit the moldings that are on the kitchen side against the door opening instead of them being on the outside of the wall.
But considering the type of door currently installed, one can assume you don't have a thick enough wall for this to be an option.
An alternative is to do as in the example above but with the frame protruding slightly into the laundry room, so you solve the problem there instead. Either with moldings or by building onto the wall, perhaps.
Otherwise, sealant resolves a lot. Skip the moldings and seal/paint everything. The risk is that it might crack over time, but then you can just go over with the sealant again. Or use Tec7 instead of sealant. Then you might avoid the cracking problem, but the door will be difficult to remove the day it needs to be done![]()
Hello!I ImTheBeast said:Hello,
between the kitchen and laundry room, I have a folding door. I want to remove this door and replace it with a standard interior door. Installing an interior door is no problem.
The issue I foresee arises when I need to place the door trim. The dishwasher door will hit the nearest trim when it opens. It's simply too tight.
Check the attached images.
Any tips on how I can solve this?![]()
You could move the frame inward so that it does not align with the kitchen wall but slightly inward and trim around the door opening. If the frame protrudes into the laundry room, you can disassemble it and cut it down so that it aligns with the wall in the laundry room. The door will then open into the kitchen. Just move it in enough so that the trim fits; otherwise, the door might not open fully.
Perhaps the same as others have suggested but which I haven't understood…🤔
Thanks for the tips!
I have something to go on now. I'll check if I can find the right door size without needing framing on any side. I'll align the door frame with the laundry room and there will be a recess on the kitchen side.
I believe in this
I have something to go on now. I'll check if I can find the right door size without needing framing on any side. I'll align the door frame with the laundry room and there will be a recess on the kitchen side.
I believe in this
Ran into a problem. With the threshold.
Since I bought a 68mm door frame, the threshold no longer fits. Partly because the laminate floor doesn't go all the way under the previous threshold, but that was solved with a quarter threshold to cover the gap. But with the new threshold, the floor absolutely doesn't go under it because it's only 68mm deep.
Can you find a deeper threshold for a 68mm frame????
Since I bought a 68mm door frame, the threshold no longer fits. Partly because the laminate floor doesn't go all the way under the previous threshold, but that was solved with a quarter threshold to cover the gap. But with the new threshold, the floor absolutely doesn't go under it because it's only 68mm deep.
Can you find a deeper threshold for a 68mm frame????
Member
· västra götaland
· 212 posts
Buy a wider and longer threshold and adjust it.I ImTheBeast said:Encountered an issue. With the threshold.
Since I bought a 68mm door frame, the threshold no longer fits. The laminate floor didn't go all the way under the previous threshold, but that was solved with a quarter-round threshold to fill the gap. But with the new threshold, the floor absolutely does not go under it because it's only 68mm deep.
Can you find a deeper threshold for a 68 mm frame????
Understand that, but you will see the edge on the sides of the frame because it is narrower.
So you need to build something of your own or place the threshold that came with it on top of the oak piece.
So you need to build something of your own or place the threshold that came with it on top of the oak piece.
Member
· västra götaland
· 212 posts
In between, I was thinking. Just saw it to fit. Or place a piece underneath as also suggested. If you want a rebated threshold, then you'll probably need an oak piece in front to cover the gap to the tiles.I ImTheBeast said:
In hindsight, maybe I should have bought a 92mm door frame, but it's really tight against the door trim when the dishwasher needs to be opened. Everything needs to be exact measurements. I don't even have 1mm of margin between the dishwasher or trim. But if it had worked, you automatically get a wider threshold as well. I would still need a threshold extender to fill the floor gap, though.
With a 68mm door frame, I have margins.
I also need to frame the sides of the door opening to reduce the gap. Right now, I have 35mm on each side when the frame is in place. It gets a bit tricky when the trim is supposed to be installed and the nails have nowhere to be nailed into except for the frame. For this, I have 70mm frame screws. They feel short when the door opening is so large.
Or what do you think?
With a 68mm door frame, I have margins.
I also need to frame the sides of the door opening to reduce the gap. Right now, I have 35mm on each side when the frame is in place. It gets a bit tricky when the trim is supposed to be installed and the nails have nowhere to be nailed into except for the frame. For this, I have 70mm frame screws. They feel short when the door opening is so large.
Or what do you think?
I would do what someone mentioned earlier. Buy a piece of oak and place it between the threshold and the floor, it needs to be wide enough to cover the old kitchen floor, about 15mm. Saw or rout a groove on the underside so the oak piece lies on the subfloor, against the threshold, and over the kitchen floor. Customize the groove so there is a gap in the groove between the kitchen floor and the oak piece so the kitchen floor can move (4-5mm).I ImTheBeast said:In hindsight, maybe I should have bought a 92mm door frame, but it's really tight against the door trim when the dishwasher is being opened. Everything really has to be exact measurements. I don't even have a 1mm margin between the dishwasher or trim. But if it had worked, you would automatically get a wider threshold as well. However, I would still need a threshold extender to cover the floor gap anyway.
With a 68mm door frame, I have margins.
I also need to adjust the sides of the doorway to reduce the opening. Now I have 35mm on each side when the frame is in place. It becomes a bit tricky when the trim is to be applied and the nails have nowhere to be nailed in except for the frame. For this, I have 70mm frame screws. They feel short when the doorway is so large.
What do you think?


