Hello, I have a door reveal for the front door that is about 35 cm deep. The frame is plastered brick, and I have applied putty to the reveal and was planning to put microlite fabric, a baseboard at the bottom and paint. But now I believe it would be significantly better in connection to the door trim, etc. (see image 1), to simply glue a panel on the sides and top of the reveal and skip the baseboards in this part. For it to look good at the bottom, the panel must be flush against the floor. The floor is uneven, but I will fix that with a compass and so-called "scribing."
The only question is what panel material to choose, MDF doesn't seem entirely suitable considering it will be at the bottom against the (scrubbed) floor in a hallway with some wear, same with plywood, it could swell with moisture. I found the Malå board at Beijer and thought it sounded perfect - a glued panel of solid pine. But they only had it in 18mm, and I don't want that much thickness. I found a very nice example in Gård&Torp, see image 2. Just like that is how I would like to achieve it.
Anyone know what panel material can be used to achieve that "construction"?
Image 1
Image 2 (example from Gård&Torp no. 3/2009)
The only question is what panel material to choose, MDF doesn't seem entirely suitable considering it will be at the bottom against the (scrubbed) floor in a hallway with some wear, same with plywood, it could swell with moisture. I found the Malå board at Beijer and thought it sounded perfect - a glued panel of solid pine. But they only had it in 18mm, and I don't want that much thickness. I found a very nice example in Gård&Torp, see image 2. Just like that is how I would like to achieve it.
Anyone know what panel material can be used to achieve that "construction"?
Image 1
Image 2 (example from Gård&Torp no. 3/2009)
I would undoubtedly use MDF. If you're worried about moisture, just make sure to paint extra carefully on the ends before installing. I have MDF in the doorway myself and haven't had any issues for 4-5 years.
You should be able to find laminated pine in both 12 and 16mm, don't you think?
You should be able to find laminated pine in both 12 and 16mm, don't you think?
Yes, 6 mm is available, but it is usually not in stock at the hardware store. They can order it for you. Try to get combined shipping with the hardware store's regular deliveries so you don't have to pay shipping for one board, which can be expensive.
Since you have stone and the board is thin, I would have glued it with mounting glue. Saw some sticks that are slightly longer than what you have from trim to trim and put the glued trim under tension with the sticks.Alko said:
And lock the door
Ok. That was a good tip that I will take into account during the gluing. I'm considering using plywood instead of MDF. The downside is probably the price, which is irrelevant on this scale. You can go down to 4mm there, for example.
Since I'm an amateur, I set the molding first as shown in the image below, edge to edge with the untrimmed reveal, instead of first paneling the reveal and then adjusting the molding sideways to cover any gaps between the panel and the (likely) uneven wall. Now the side of the panel is visible (one reason why you want it as thin as possible), but it should be possible to achieve a good result with the fine cut from Festool TS-55 and some latex caulk in between, I hope. The advantage is that any cracks between the molding and the reveal are less visible as you're not trying to achieve an invisible smooth surface.
In the image from Gård & Torp (the first post), they also seem to have a marked edge between the panel in the reveal and the molding.
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Since I'm an amateur, I set the molding first as shown in the image below, edge to edge with the untrimmed reveal, instead of first paneling the reveal and then adjusting the molding sideways to cover any gaps between the panel and the (likely) uneven wall. Now the side of the panel is visible (one reason why you want it as thin as possible), but it should be possible to achieve a good result with the fine cut from Festool TS-55 and some latex caulk in between, I hope. The advantage is that any cracks between the molding and the reveal are less visible as you're not trying to achieve an invisible smooth surface.
In the image from Gård & Torp (the first post), they also seem to have a marked edge between the panel in the reveal and the molding.
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It will probably be fine, placing the trim exactly flush with the edge reveals all the little imperfections. (That's why you typically extend/insert(?) the trim by 5 mm or so. In my own house, previous owners couldn't quite make up their minds, some indents are 2 mm - others 2 cm...)
Alternatively, use 6 mm MDF and route a round edge on the smyg so it blends in with the trim, making it look as if it were done in the "right" order.
How great the advice you get here! In my case, there won't be a real indentation since I did it in the wrong order. The "indentation" will be just as thick as the MDF. But a small bead of sealant will probably fix any gaps. And milling a rounding also makes the MDF less sensitive to knocks on the edge. But it's frustrating how the smallest mistake in the details can cause extra work!
This morning I wondered if I should remove the casings (with everything that entails - removing a nearby element, new baseboards that align, adjusting surface-mounted conduit in line with the casing, etc., etc.). Glad I can probably manage without all that...
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This morning I wondered if I should remove the casings (with everything that entails - removing a nearby element, new baseboards that align, adjusting surface-mounted conduit in line with the casing, etc., etc.). Glad I can probably manage without all that...
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