Roofing felt or plastic spacers under wooden posts?

[Klabbis 3000]

I have wooden posts supporting the roof of the carport that stand on a concrete base/foundation running along the entire carport. Currently, the posts are only on a layer of sill paper, very close to the base, which allows water to get close to the end grain, and I'm considering whether it would be better to add more layers of sill paper to create more distance from the concrete, or if plastic spacers are preferable in this case. The problem is also that the posts were never oiled and primed before they were placed there. There's a possibility to lift them a maximum of a few centimeters, so I also wonder if there's any clever way to apply primer oil and primer paint to the end grain while adding more paper or plastic spacers?

 

[Matti_75]

Many plastic spacers cannot withstand large loads over time. They are intended for temporary shimming and then for grouting. A post base is safer in your case.

 

[tgr_se]

If you lift and thread under a plastic bag that you can pull up around the pole, you can fill it with oil and let it soak in. There will probably be some spillage but it should work.

Stable spacers can be cut from cutting boards (plastic) from Ikea.

 

[Klabbis 3000]

If you lift and slip under a plastic bag you can pull up around the pole, you can fill it with oil and let it soak in. There will probably be some spill but it should work.

Stable spacers can be cut from cutting boards (plastic) from Ikea.

Smart with the bag

 

[Klabbis 3000]

Many plastic spacers cannot handle large loads over time. They are intended for temporary shimming and then to be underpinned. A post base is safer in your case

Yes, it should ideally be a post base, but unfortunately, that's not possible now since it was built like this in the past.

 

[ToRy]

There isn't enough room to shift the post sideways by the decimeter needed to access drilling into the concrete beneath the post? Wood is quite a flexible material as long as nothing is in the way.

 

[fribygg]

Many plastic spacers cannot handle large loads over time. They are intended for temporary shimming and then to be grouted. A post shoe is safer in your case

It is appropriate to choose a shim plate that is made to handle the load in TS case

 

[Klabbis 3000]

Is there no space to push the post sideways the decimeter needed to access and drill into the concrete under the post? Wood is quite a flexible material as long as nothing is in the way.

Might be difficult unfortunately

 

[Klabbis 3000]

I got a whim and sealed with Tec7 and painted over, but it's questionable if that's a really good solution, so I'm considering trying to get more syllpapp underneath instead or spacer plates then. Does anyone think it might actually be a good solution to seal around the post to prevent water from seeping in?

 

[ToRy]

Hmmm... you already have some sort of post-shoe-like device there. I assume it goes in under the post and possibly up on the other side, like a U? And that it is screwed into the concrete under the post...? The latter is hard to know in hindsight though...

In that case, I would have probably done as you were thinking and as tgr_se gave a good tip about; saw off the post and insert some thicker spacer material. It shouldn't be a major problem to support the beam resting on the post to relieve the post and be able to saw off and insert spacer material.

I probably wouldn't apply a paint that seems very reluctant to let moisture through. The risk is that the moisture that does get in won't get out...

 

[Klabbis 3000]

Hmmm... you already have some form of post-shoe-like thing there. I assume it goes under the post and possibly up on the other side, like a U? And that it is screwed into the concrete under the post...? The latter is hard to know in hindsight, though...

In that case, I would probably do as you suggested and as tgr_se gave a good tip about; cut off the post and squeeze in some thicker spacer material. It shouldn't be too much of a problem to prop up the beam resting on the post to relieve the post and be able to cut off and insert spacer material.

I probably wouldn't apply a paint that seems very reluctant to let moisture through. The risk is that the moisture that does get in won't get out...

The iron rod is embedded in the concrete and is only on one side of the post, bolted as an anchorage when the weather gets rough. The post is not attached in any other way than this. The idea with that sealant was to prevent moisture from getting in, but I now realize the risk that it might anyhow for some reason, and then all breathing ability for the wood is gone. It can be raised a little over a centimeter with a jack, which should be enough then if you add more layers of sill paper to raise it off the concrete a bit more properly?

 

[fribygg]

With tar paper or a pallet board under the post, you prevent moisture from capillary rising up into the post, and as you have now painted and smeared it, it probably doesn't matter since the wood cannot dry anyway.

Let it be, move on with life.

 

[Klabbis 3000]

With sill paper or a pad under the post, you prevent moisture from capillary rising into the post. Since you have now painted and smeared it, it probably doesn't matter as the wood can't dry anyway.

Let it be, move on with life.

Yes, but the question was whether it is more sensible to remove the sealant at the bottom between the wood and concrete, then lift up a bit more with a jack and place more sill paper or spacers so it's not so tightly joined with the concrete base.

 

[fribygg]

Well, it will probably manage in your time anyway, and the next owner of the property will probably replace what is bad and ugly.

 

[Klabbis 3000]

Hmmm... you already have some form of bracket-like thing there. I assume it goes under the post and possibly up the other side, like a U? And that it's screwed into the concrete under the post...? The latter is hard to know in hindsight, of course...

In that case, I would probably do what you are considering and as tgr_se gave a good tip about; saw off the post and wedge in some thicker spacer material. It shouldn't be a big problem to prop up the beam resting on the post to relieve the post and allow sawing off and inserting spacer material.

I probably wouldn't apply a paint that seems very reluctant to let moisture through. The risk is that the moisture that does get in won't come out...

How much do you think should be in between there then? Is 7-10 millimeters enough?
The hope is that it could be enough to lift up with a jack and then place thicker sill paper or those kind of spacers. Much more than 10 millimeters I don't think is possible without having to cut, but maybe 10 millimeters is good enough?