I am planning to build a "self-supporting" staircase with 4 steps according to the sketch below, if possible. My question is what dimension I should use to ensure it holds. The intention is to cut out the steps in the stringers. Sketch of a floating staircase with four steps, dimensions labeled, on grid paper. Includes measurements and notes for potential wall attachment.

Possibly, attachment to the wall on one side is an option.

The staircase is 900mm wide.
 
It is usually about 120mm at the narrowest point, but since it is so short you can probably go with less.

It's mainly the deflection that limits how thin you want to go. Do you have any reasons not to take the fattest rule on the shelf?
Is it going to be painted?
 
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FredrikR
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No no, I can go for glulam if necessary.

Since the plan is to cut out and place the steps on top, none of the stringers will be visible except underneath, and it doesn't matter there.
 
harry73
I made my own stringers for our outdoor stairs. I took the thickest beam at the hardware store and glued/screwed a 40x40 underneath. Worked for me.
 
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FredrikR
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Just under 40 degrees will be the slope if I think correctly.

Maybe it's not a problem if I go with 45x220 and cut out as planned, and possibly screw-glue as much as possible on the insides considering the cut-out? :thinking:
 
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One way to calculate it is to apply the same deflection criterion normally used for floor joists. Freely translated: a 100 kg person standing in the middle of the stairs should not cause a deflection greater than 1.5 mm on the stringer measured perpendicular to the stair run. To simplify, I only consider the lower free part of the stringer. With a length of 1244 mm and a slope of 40 degrees, the deflection is 1.1 mm if the lower part of the stringer (excluding the cutouts for the steps) has dimensions of 45x70 mm.
 
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Björn Melander and 2 others
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J justusandersson said:
One way to calculate this is to apply the same deflection criterion that is normally used for floor joists. Freely formulated: a 100 kg person standing in the middle of the stairs should not cause a greater deflection than 1.5 mm on the stringer measured perpendicular to the stair tread. To make it simpler, I only consider the lower free part of the stringer. With a length of 1244 mm and an inclination of 40 degrees, the deflection is 1.1 mm if the bottom of the stringer (excluding the cutouts for the steps) has dimensions of 45x70 mm.
Does this apply even if, like I'm thinking, you cut out for the steps from the stringer?
 
Yes, as long as it's 70 mm left the entire way.
 
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FredrikR
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J justusandersson said:
Yes, as long as there is 70 mm all the way.
Thank you (y)
 
I measured once more and now the angle is creeping down to 32.2'.

Where do we land on thickness then?

How much does the strength increase if I, for example, screw-glue a 45x95 or 120 (or whatever fits under the stairs) on the insides?

Greatly appreciated with the calculation help! (y)
 
The angular change is negligible in this case because I calculated a little roughly. If you screw-glue a 45x70 regel on the inside of the vangstycke, the stiffness increases significantly. The deflection decreases to 0.6 mm.
 
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FredrikR
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J justusandersson said:
The angle change is negligible in this case because I calculated a bit approximately. If you screw-glue a 45x70 regel on the inside of the vangstycke, the stiffness increases significantly. The deflection decreases to 0.6 mm.
Thank you very much!
 
harry73
This is what my vangstycke looks like. It feels stable.
White stair stringer with wooden steps, secured with metal brackets, leading to a porch or platform against a light-colored wall.
 
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FredrikR
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harry73 harry73 said:
This is what my stringer looks like. It feels stable.
[image]
The stairs I plan to build seem to match yours quite well in terms of measurements.
The difference is that you have 2 attachment points in the second step from the bottom, but probably it won't be an issue in my case without them. (y)
I will try to figure out a good solution for my landing, as well as the "cladding" of the side walls where the staircase will be, then the saw comes out. ;)
 
harry73
FredrikR FredrikR said:
The difference is that you have 2 anchor points in the second step from the bottom, but in my case, it's probably not an issue without. (y)
Having an anchor point in the second step can make a difference, having two doesn't make a difference. The pole is not that stable.
 
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