Stone house

Tommy_S · 28 Nov 2003 at 11:02 AM

The climate in a stone house is unparalleled, in my opinion. My father has something similar to what you're describing, except for the basement, and it works great. Another positive aspect of stone is that it makes for a quiet house and you have little outside noise to disturb you - road, train, or airplane.

I would reconsider the interior walls if I were you. Electrical installations, etc., become much easier in drywall.

Copper roof? Is it still allowed? Maybe it's just the city of Stockholm that doesn't allow it anymore. Unpainted, that is. Copper ions are released and follow the stormwater into our waterways...

Tommy_S · 30 Nov 2003 at 8:20 AM

A wall with OSB and plasterboard on both sides and a bit of insulation is at least as solid as a 10 cm lightweight concrete wall.
My opinion anyway.

roer · 2 Dec 2003 at 10:26 PM

I would probably also choose different materials for interior walls, except for bathrooms, other wet areas, and boiler rooms. Water damage is less extensive on stone

joen1 · 6 Dec 2003 at 7:20 AM

I don't understand why the electrical installation would be easier with a wood wall than with a lightweight concrete wall. With a lightweight concrete wall, you just need to mill a groove for the pipe, okay, it gets a little dusty. Then you just lay it in and plaster again. If you have interior walls of lightweight concrete, they insulate sound better between rooms.

For my part, I will have everything in Ytong except roof trusses and the outer roof.

Best regards,

Jörgen

Tommy_S · 6 Dec 2003 at 8:01 AM

joen1 said:
I don't understand why it would be easier with electrical installation for a wooden wall than a lightweight concrete wall. For lightweight concrete walls, you just need to cut a groove for the pipe, and yes, it gets a bit dusty. Then you just lay it in and plaster it over. If you have interior walls of lightweight concrete, they provide better sound insulation between rooms.

For my part, I will have everything in Ytong except the rafters and the outer roof

Regards

Jörgen

Yes, everyone does as they like

Honken_byggare · 9 Dec 2003 at 4:10 PM

The choice of materials in different parts of the house depends on the floor plan and design of the house. Large blocks or prefab blocks become very expensive with complicated shapes. I am currently building my own house in ytong. It is an octagonal 1 1/2 story house of about 200 m^2. I designed our house myself and am also building it entirely on my own. I am constructing it with small, thin-bonded blocks. There is a lot of sawing with eight corners. I have all the interior walls in ytong partly because two walls are load-bearing and to avoid movement between different materials, which can result in cracks. The roof frame is made of wood as it is not possible to construct a roof frame in ytong. Today, the frame is complete, as well as the underlayment and the roofing felt.

Honken

Honken_byggare · 10 Dec 2003 at 5:19 PM

Yes, I do everything myself. Well, not quite everything, not the excavation, not the installation of water pipes and heating systems. I've had many friends helping me as well as my father-in-law, who is a retired carpenter and spends much of his time on the construction. As of now, we have erected the load-bearing framework with joists, etc., and laid the siding and membrane and will now start with drilling for electricity, heating, ventilation, water, and sewage.

We started demolishing an old house on the plot on February 1st and began excavating on April 17th, poured the foundation on May 28th, and began laying the foundation blockwork 2 weeks later. So, yes, it takes a little time. The outer walls consist of 60x35x15 cm blocks, so about 20 tons were used for the outer walls, 55 tons for the joists, and a total of about 100 tons of lightweight concrete. The house won't easily blow away. Regarding moisture migration between the lightweight concrete and the wooden roof trusses, you always place tar paper between these materials. In certain spots, plastic film is placed.

Those interested in plans, pictures, etc., can email what is desired, and maybe I can email them to you.

Regards, Honken

KarlXII · 10 Dec 2003 at 9:01 PM

Familjefadern said:
Honken,

Hmm, they say not to mix dead and living material. How do the roof trusses handle moisture? I don't know if it's an issue, but I think I read about it somewhere.

There are no problems.
Feel free to compare it with a wooden house on a concrete slab.

Wooden roof construction on a stone house is by far the most common solution.

KarlXII · 10 Dec 2003 at 9:06 PM

Honken_byggare said:
Yes, I do everything myself. Well, not quite everything, not the excavation, not the installation of water pipes and heating system. I have had many friends who have helped me as well as my father-in-law who is a retired carpenter and spends much of his time on the construction. At present, we have erected the load-bearing frame with joists, etc., laid underlayment and roofing felt, and are now set to start drilling holes for electricity, heating, ventilation, water, and sewage.

We began demolishing an old house on the lot on February 1st and started excavating on April 17th, poured the foundation on May 28th, and began building up the foundation two weeks later. So sure, it takes a bit of time. The outer walls consist of 60x35x15 cm blocks, so approximately 20 tons have been used for the outer walls, 55 tons for the joists, and a total of about 100 tons of aerated concrete. The house surely won't blow away. As for moisture migration between the aerated concrete and wooden trusses and such, one always lays roofing felt between these two materials. In some places, plastic film is laid.

Interested in drawings, photos, etc., can email what is desired, and maybe I can email them to you.

Regards, Honken

Fun project! No, with a match weight of 100 tons, the frame won’t likely blow away. The classic is when the roof flies off like a frisbee.

What do you mean by "underlayment on the roof"? I haven't heard that term before...

Honken_byggare · 10 Dec 2003 at 9:53 PM

Haven't you heard that you swell the roof when nailing the roof sheathing?

By the way, we live on the construction site due to the high rent we had in the apartment. So, during the construction time, about 1 year, we live in 2 connected work cabins, 3 rooms and a kitchen with toilet, shower, and laundry room, 55m^2. So, any spare time is, in other words, dedicated to the construction.

Best regards, Honken

KarlXII · 10 Dec 2003 at 11:09 PM

Honken_byggare said:
Haven't you heard that you flood the roof when nailing the raw planks?

Never, actually... But I'm not a "real" builder either.

I've only heard about "nailing the raw planks." Construction is, like sailing, an activity full of peculiar terms that only the initiated understand... Even after 10 years as a leisure sailor, I stand on the floor in the boat and turn right, unlike a "real" boater who stands on the deck and steers starboard. So it will probably take some time before I handle/accept the builder lingo.

Honken_byggare said:
By the way, we live at the construction site due to the high rent we had in the apartment. So we live during the construction period, about 1 year in 2 connected work cabins, 3 rooms and a kitchen with toilet, shower, and laundry room 55m^2. So any free time is therefore dedicated to the construction.

Regards Honken

Luxury! We lived in 25sqm for a year without water

Oh well, now Jureit will probably come with his measly 14 square meters, and then it will start to sound like Monty Python's exaggerations and understatements...

Seriously, it’s the best - living at the construction site. You get a lot done during the time that would otherwise be spent traveling and "getting started."

Where are you building?

joen1 · 11 Dec 2003 at 6:50 AM

Honken!

Your floor slab elements! What are their dimensions? Because it's cellular concrete slabs that you have, right? Another question, have you done structural calculations on your house?
I am myself undecided whether to have wooden floor slabs or Ytong floor slabs.

Regards

Jörgen

Honken_byggare · 11 Dec 2003 at 7:36 AM

Absolutely, you should use aerated concrete flooring. That way, you avoid all the issues with drafts and the different materials moving differently.

I have aerated concrete flooring that is 250mm thick both upstairs and downstairs. Downstairs, it will also be additionally insulated with 100mm insulation under the flooring in the crawl space. Many of my elements are special-order 45° angles, which has been costly.

There are elements ranging from 1m to 6m in 10cm increments, and they are 60cm wide with tongue and groove.

Yes, I have done structural calculations, well, not me but an aerated concrete engineer.

Honken_byggare · 11 Dec 2003 at 8:00 AM

A hot tip is to visit Ytong's website and download the lightweight concrete handbook, where everything you need to know about installation and materials is explained.

ByggarBob · 11 Dec 2003 at 8:37 AM

We have just built a 1.5-story house in Finja ISO block 350mm and I must say it has turned out fantastic. Plastered walls on the inside with gypsum plaster that we also have on all framed walls on the ground floor. Then we illuminate with spotlights to highlight the structure of the walls. It turned out bold!

Paintings, curtain rods, and everything else the wife wants on the walls are super easy to mount. Just drill with a regular drill bit and plug it... done!! And if you change your mind, just fill in a bit of gypsum plaster and the hole disappears. Inner walls consist of 45mm mineral wool, 75 framing, 12mm chipboard, and 13mm gypsum. Chipboard is today's tip!!

A small cost but so much easier to attach things and a little extra soundproofing.

We are extremely satisfied with our stone house.