Working on the interior walls of the upper floor, I'm using 45*70 studs and then 12mm particle board and 13mm gypsum on top. Is 12mm particle board enough, or should I go for 16mm?

The thing is, the walls will be quite thick, but I want particle board as a material to make it easier to hang pictures, etc. Also, getting some soundproofing and reducing hollow sounds isn't a bad idea. Something I regret not choosing for the ground floor.

Is that a good idea, or what do you think?
 
Sure, it's a good idea!

However, personally, I would have chosen OSB or even better, Plyfaskivor, because screws/nails "hold" less effectively in the chipboard, and I don't know which types of glue the chipboard manufacturers are using today....
 
One tip is to glue and screw the chipboards to the wooden studs, so you get fantastically rigid and pleasant walls. The advantage of glue is that you can adjust crooked studs by putting them under tension while the glue dries.
This tip is from a carpenter, so it's not "home-spun." I have adopted this throughout the house.

Keep in mind that many manufacturers of interior doors also have 118mm thick frames. It looks much nicer than a 95-frame + trim.

There is a quality difference in chipboards among different price ranges.
 
Is OSB significantly better in this regard or?

Are they straight and nice, etc.? I've heard that some plywood can be warped and such.
 
Yes!

If it's not warped, then the boards have been stored/handled incorrectly! The downside of OSB is that you'll get your fingers full of splinters... :P so IF I ever build another house, it'll be with plywood :D
 
We have 12mm chipboard under the plaster and it's enough to secure most things satisfactorily, but it's clear that plywood or OSB is better if you're going to hang heavy items - like a 42-inch plasma...

We have glued and screwed/nailed the chipboard.

Hmmm... regarding the crookedness of plywood, they tend to look both crooked and saggy at Beijer here in town at least.

If you're going to install chipboard, I was given the tip that you shouldn't wait too long before closing the other side of the wall because the chipboards can warp and make the studs bulge.
 
I only have single chipboard here and it is only screwed. This will be fixed during the first renovation. Either they were careless with the insulation in some inner walls or it's the chipboard that is moving, but the soundproofing is non-existent. The plan is to open certain walls and fill them with insulation if needed, then glue and screw the chipboard, and then apply a layer of plasterboard.
 
Jesca_j said:
...If you're going to install chipboard, I got the tip that you shouldn't wait too long before closing up the other side of the wall because the chipboards can warp and cause the studs to bend.
I became aware of this tip too late when I was trying it on a wall with 120mm studs. The chipboard gradually gained a higher moisture content and bent these massive studs by 15mm in the middle. Luckily, we could take it easy and after six months, that wall had straightened itself out. The opposite can, as mentioned, be used to make a crooked stud straight.
 
I only have single chipboard here and it is only screwed. This will be fixed in the first renovation. Either they've been sloppy with the insulation in some interior walls or it's the chipboard that is moving, but the soundproofing is non-existent. The plan is to open certain walls and fill them with insulation if needed, then glue and screw the chipboard and then apply a layer of plasterboard
Do you need to glue plywood as well if you choose to use it, or is it only the chipboard that is glued?

Is there no better material for soundproofing inside the wall than Isover insulation? There should be plenty of other materials (damping mats) that can be placed inside the wall, right?
 
The only problem is probably the price of damping mats. I believe insulation has a good price/performance ratio here. However, I'm wondering if there's any difference between glass and stone wool in this perspective.
 
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