Hello,

I have torn down a decrepit basement wall, where wooden studs, chipboard, and fiberglass fabric were used. The fabric had started to come off, so I thought it would be easiest to tear everything down and do it properly. Besides, it's impossible to remove the fabric in places where it hasn't come off.

So I plan to use steel studs and gypsum board with slots for ventilation at the top and bottom.

Now to my problem. The wall behind was very unsightly. Much of the plaster has come off the aerated concrete because the wall has buckled slightly, probably due to rough backfill after drainage.

There are quite large gaps between the aerated concrete blocks, so I would prefer to re-plaster it. But since it's quite tricky and difficult to plaster the wall, someone suggested using gypsum because it adheres much better. It doesn't need to look nice since I plan to hide the wall with gypsum boards anyway. But could plastering with gypsum cause problems in some way? Would the wall become more sealed than if using traditional plaster?
 
  • Damaged basement wall with exposed concrete blocks and wooden studs, showing cracked and missing plaster, indicative of previous rough handling during drainage refilling.
Hi!
Welcome to the forum!

My advice is to find out why the plaster has come off. Is it due to moisture? Inadequate drainage, etc...?
First, remove the wooden battens pronto! ! !
Either you plaster the wall in the usual way...
Or you can use Finja's wall filler "360 vägg rot".
I've done this myself with very good results. Finja's filler is a diffusion-open product, so it allows your basement wall to breathe well. I haven't seen any problems yet with the wall I've plastered. And it's been about 1 year & 4 months since I plastered.
Good luck! :)
 
Yes, I have already removed all the wooden studs. I will replace them with 70mm metal studs.
And the reason the plaster has come off is probably because they compacted the refill too hard when they drained the house in 1990, so the wall is slightly bulging inwards.
It might also have been a bit more humid before the re-draining. Additionally, some type of carpet has been on the wall. The only thing left now was the fluff and the glue.

But now the wall is dry. None of the wooden studs there were discolored, and only one or two screws were rusty.
There was a downpour here last week, so much that there were puddles on the lawn. Then the lightweight concrete in the corner got a bit damp. But I think the drainage works well.

It feels quite unnecessary to replaster the wall when it won't be visible anyway. From what I understand, the plaster is purely cosmetic.
 
It's not magic to plaster! ;) Use regular plaster mix C or gypsum plaster. The latter is clearly more expensive but a bit easier to handle. I think there is a lot of money to be saved by LEARNING how to plaster! Plus, you'll have more to be proud of when it's done... My advice is: Don't be afraid to make some mistakes! Check online and in books how to proceed! The plaster also reinforces the wall a bit. If you have plastered walls, no studs will rot. :)
 
Gypsum plaster is not entirely suitable for exterior walls in basements, where pressing moisture occurs.
 
Milkshaken
I did the following in our basement: I removed the organic materials, wooden studs, and plasterboard, plus the insulation...
Behind it was simply an ugly plastered and painted concrete wall.
I took gypsum plaster, spread about 0.5-10 mm, then brushed the surface to create some texture. After that, I painted with paint used for outdoor primers... It turned out awesome, and there's no sign yet of any potential moisture penetration. The basement is about 170 cm below ground level, with the remaining 35 above ground.
 
jon_h said:
Gypsum plaster is not entirely suitable for exterior walls in basements where penetrating moisture occurs.
Good to know! (I plastered my basement myself with plaster mortar C.....)
 
jon_h said:
Gypsum plaster is not entirely suitable for exterior walls in basements where penetrating moisture occurs.
But why, does the gypsum disintegrate or is it too dense? Plastering the wall instead of furring it out is not an option since the old wall was made before the floor. Which means that with only plaster, the floor would end a decimeter before the wall.
So it is purely for functional reasons that I'm considering doing something about the plaster.
And from what I've heard, plastering walls is quite messy with half usually ending up on the floor.
But I have a bag of plaster C, so maybe I should try it on a section to see if it works.
Can the old plaster with paint residues be left, or do I need to clear the entire wall?
 
The Gipen does not have excellent moisture resistance. I don't really know much more than that.

I would go with cement-based plaster or Finjas väggrot, as someone else suggests. The latter is very easy to work with.
 
I could have settled for having painted plastered walls. But then I would have to empty the heating system and rebuild the radiators. Additionally, the wall bulges in quite a bit, so it would require 4cm thicker plaster at the top and bottom of the wall.

But back to my original question. Is it necessary to have plaster? Can I leave the wall as it is and cover it with drywall? Or does the plaster have another function besides being more attractive than light concrete blocks?
What would a mason charge to plaster 30m²? It usually says quite a lot about how much work it is.
 
From what I understand, the plaster strengthens the wall, which sounds reasonable.
 
I wonder if this is considered a hidden defect. The wall bulges in several centimeters in the middle.
 
Antracit said:
Wondering if this counts as a hidden defect. The wall bulges in several centimeters in the middle
Since it was visible from the outside, it can never be considered a hidden defect.
 
Now I became very pensive. We have just finished tiling a laundry room in the basement. The wall was plastered before, but it had started to come off here and there, and it was crooked and bulged a bit here and there. "Our" tiler filled the walls with gypsum to make them straight. Even the exterior wall. Should he not have done that??
 
No, he shouldn't have done that.
 
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