I was thinking of building the wall frames for my extension lying flat and then raising them. Has anyone else done the same who can give some practical tips? Sill plates and top plates should be half-lapped at the corners, how did you solve that in the smoothest way? Or did you skip it 
?
I was thinking of nailing one sheet of asfa-board per section to get some stability and raising the wall in sections no more than 5.5 m. The long sides will then be two sections, where sill/top plates should also be half-lapped. We will be about 3 people (two a bit weaker), but I can probably get one or more people there if necessary. Or is three enough?
I do NOT plan to nail on all the asfa-board because my assessment is that it becomes too heavy, even though it would of course be easier for the assembly itself. Or has anyone tested that and thinks it was piece of cake?
What worked/troubled you in general?
?I was thinking of nailing one sheet of asfa-board per section to get some stability and raising the wall in sections no more than 5.5 m. The long sides will then be two sections, where sill/top plates should also be half-lapped. We will be about 3 people (two a bit weaker), but I can probably get one or more people there if necessary. Or is three enough?
I do NOT plan to nail on all the asfa-board because my assessment is that it becomes too heavy, even though it would of course be easier for the assembly itself. Or has anyone tested that and thinks it was piece of cake?
What worked/troubled you in general?
I've done what you're planning to do, but inside a barn. It wasn't possible to insulate and make it nice with the existing walls of planks and logs, so I built a house inside it
I didn't worry much about the joints, but I've nailed the corners properly with nail plates and into the standing studs, so I don't think there's any risk of it sliding apart. I made the sections less than 5.5 meters since it was just the two of us, and sometimes just me. However, I had to nail everything on the "outside" as you can't reach it later once the wall is up because the barn's outer wall gets in the way. I didn't find it to be a problem getting the walls up as long as you're careful with the height, so all sections are equally tall when you raise them next to each other; otherwise, the wall plate becomes a bit awkward.
I didn't worry much about the joints, but I've nailed the corners properly with nail plates and into the standing studs, so I don't think there's any risk of it sliding apart. I made the sections less than 5.5 meters since it was just the two of us, and sometimes just me. However, I had to nail everything on the "outside" as you can't reach it later once the wall is up because the barn's outer wall gets in the way. I didn't find it to be a problem getting the walls up as long as you're careful with the height, so all sections are equally tall when you raise them next to each other; otherwise, the wall plate becomes a bit awkward.
Building sections while lying down and then raising them is pretty much the standard procedure. It's nothing unusual. I've raised sections of 4.8 meters by myself, so having two helpers makes it really luxurious. Just make sure to prepare with supports and clamps before you start. It's so tiring to run around looking for things while you're trying to keep a wall block in place. If you're doing an extension, it means there's already a fixed wall to attach to, which makes it even easier. However, I have never bothered to halve anything. It feels unnecessarily complicated on a house frame.
I would definitely build the entire wall at once. In the corners, I would do it simply and just place stud against stud, so the wall plate follows its section. Just make sure to be precise with the cross-measuring to ensure it stays straight.
Cross-measuring is perhaps best done when the wall is in place before it's completely nailed down. It is usually possible to adjust the framework as long as the corners are not nailed. Also, check with the level to ensure everything is straight and plumb.
No, wait with the board until it is erected. Not because of the weight, but it becomes a terrible wind catch. Additionally, you will probably need to adjust the sections a bit after they are erected, and that becomes impossible with the board.
Can someone explain to me "half and half" ...?Crebel said:
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· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
You saw off half the thickness of the plank and overlap.
If you have the option to bring in a mobile crane, you can build a complete wall with insulation and outer paneling up to about 10 m. The mobile crane is definitely worth the money as you can work horizontally at ground level.
Then came the finesse in my little garage build, I built the roof 21x6m on the ground, it was an impressive sight to see the roof complete with sheet metal and gutters lifted onto the building framework. Then all that remained was to put on the ridge cap.
Protte
If you have the option to bring in a mobile crane, you can build a complete wall with insulation and outer paneling up to about 10 m. The mobile crane is definitely worth the money as you can work horizontally at ground level.
Then came the finesse in my little garage build, I built the roof 21x6m on the ground, it was an impressive sight to see the roof complete with sheet metal and gutters lifted onto the building framework. Then all that remained was to put on the ridge cap.
Protte
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· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
Now it's from memory:haavard said:
Due to my assistants having jobs that day, there was a little extra pay for the crane operator. It took almost 1 hour to rig the crane that lifted 55 tons and had a boom of 55 meters. We rigged up an 18-meter long square tube to distribute the load from the roof trusses to 4 lifting chains.
The lift took about 15-20 minutes and then the roof was maneuvered into place to the centimeter.
I haven't bought a single scaffolding plank, nor set up scaffolding. My dad, then 82 years old, helped lay the roof sheet. We could lay the entire side with one screw in each sheet without it blowing off (good to be able to do if you see it starting to shift).
As for the cost, I think the crane lift cost 4000 including VAT.
The crane was rated for 55 tons, but the roof weighed 3200kg.
Protte
Half-and-half sill/plate?
One goes past the other, nail together.
Recently built the garage by building entire wall sections, 7 x 10m, 45x120 + 45x45 + exterior gypsum + air gap + cladding.
I think I covered most of it, careful measuring is important, because once you have put on the board/bracing, there isn't much room for adjustment later.
One goes past the other, nail together.
Recently built the garage by building entire wall sections, 7 x 10m, 45x120 + 45x45 + exterior gypsum + air gap + cladding.
- Place blocks (concrete pins) on the slab that you use when standing up, to lay the wall flush against (these are removed when the standing is complete).
- Cut/install the sill and top plate, mark/calculate where the studs should be. Lay sill and top plate edge to edge. Use a square to mark both the sill and top plate simultaneously.
- Attach a board (to build on) for the sill and one for the top plate on the surface where you will build your wall.
- The surface should be flat and level.
- Nail the studs together with the top plate and sill.
- Attach the sill at each end.
- Align the sill using a guideline, set it 1 cm out, check that the sill is straight, adjust with hammer blows if not straight.
- Secure with nails into the board you are building on. Check that the sill is straight, secure with another nail a bit further away.
- Cross measure the frame, important to be accurate, as you don't want the other walls you nail to this one to tilt. Knock the top plate sideways if you need to adjust.
- When the cross measurements are equal, secure the top plate at the ends.
- Insert any standing board in the top plate.
- Attach straps to the frame, up through the top plate.
- Build outwards on the wall, depending on the construction, horizontal studs, exterior gypsum/asphalt board, nail battens, and cladding.
- Remember to raise the cladding to the future sub-roof (on long sides) minus the air gap. On short sides/gables, take the cladding to the truss.
- Build the remaining walls similarly.
- Build two gable peaks of trusses, studs, and cladding.
- When erecting, prepare bracing, and fastenings for these, hire a crane truck. Nail together.
I think I covered most of it, careful measuring is important, because once you have put on the board/bracing, there isn't much room for adjustment later.