50,843 views ·
18 replies
51k views
18 replies
Screw exterior panel instead of nail
I'm considering screwing the outer panel to the Friggebod instead of nailing. Does anyone have any good tips and experiences? Pros and cons? What types of screws are available? So far, I've only come across Grabber screws.
The idea of screwing is mainly to avoid having to nail the panel again after a year. Ref here: http://www.tenico.nu/tips22.htm
Since it's a small object, I can tolerate the additional cost.
The idea of screwing is mainly to avoid having to nail the panel again after a year. Ref here: http://www.tenico.nu/tips22.htm
Since it's a small object, I can tolerate the additional cost.
Not compared to nailing by hand if you're using one of these..mats_o said:
http://www.jula.se/Butik/docs/Mallar/mall6.asp?OrderId=223832763&pf_id=SE-000131&dept_id=
I screw the panel with 2 screws (high up/far down) to attach it. Then I can still adjust if/WHEN I have measured wrong
Then the nail gun comes out and does the rest ;D
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/panel/
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/panel/
the idea with screwing...... But if you use galvanized nails as you should outdoors,,, well then there hardly needs to be any re-nailing after a year,,, maybe 20 years....ClasseClas said:I'm considering screwing the outer panel to the Friggebod instead of nailing. Does anyone have any good tips and experiences? Pros and cons? What kind of screws are there? So far I've only come across Grabber screws.
The idea with screwing is mainly to avoid having to re-nail the panel after a year or so. Ref here: [link]
Since it's a small project, I can tolerate the extra cost.
I think if so the screws will rust before you need to re-nail...
Well, Grabber claims that the screw holds the panel better in place than nails, and therefore you avoid additional nailing. Check out the ad talk here: http://www.grabber.se/websites/grabberse/filbank/PTS_panel_A4.pdfMilkshaken said:
Or maybe the panel will crack more instead, what do I know...
No, the panel doesn't crack! It is an amazingly good but expensive screw..... I have also advantageously used it to mount angled/twisted window trims, and with the drill tip, it's possible to screw close to the edges without cracks 
I don't think there are any problems at all with screwing in the panel until the day you need to remove it for some reason. I believe that unscrewing the screw after x number of years will be difficult, and I don't want to think about how much you might damage the framework by prying them off.
-Åke
-Åke
Reviving an old thread.
I will soon be attaching shingles to my shed. I'm considering iron vitriol, tar vitriol, wood bleaching with acid, etc. One reason to use acid-resistant soft stainless steel screws. Regular decking screws might work. What are the alternatives?
I've found decking screws with a small head from Spax (Bauhaus) but usually 5x60. Are there equivalents in 4.2 or 4.5x55?
I will soon be attaching shingles to my shed. I'm considering iron vitriol, tar vitriol, wood bleaching with acid, etc. One reason to use acid-resistant soft stainless steel screws. Regular decking screws might work. What are the alternatives?
I've found decking screws with a small head from Spax (Bauhaus) but usually 5x60. Are there equivalents in 4.2 or 4.5x55?
Hello1977bjorn said:
Reviving an old thread.
I will soon be attaching mountain panels to my storage. I'm considering iron vitriol, tar vitriol, wood bleaching with acid, etc. One reason to screw with acid-resistant soft stainless screws. Regular deck screws might work. What are the alternatives?
I've found deck screws with a small head from Spax (Bauhaus) but mostly 5x60. Is there an equivalent in 4.2 or 4.5x55?
I'm just an amateur, but I'm planning to replace the house facade that can't be sensibly renovated and replace it with Siberian larch from a smaller sawmill nearby.
And I also plan to screw, to be able to unscrew later. In my case, it requires even better screws than the ones you're mentioning, "premium screws" as the carpenters call them, to handle the forces that larch can exert in all possible ways.
I've received tips about special variants from NKT, or check with Ejot which have worked well in other projects with larch, and you don't need to think much about this with mountain panels.
But everyone I've talked to about screws, who understands that I want to be able to remove the screws in x decades, agrees that only the above will do. Deck screws are completely out of the question if it will be exposed.
(I'll also use iron vitriol and that doesn't protect the screws.)
But if it's a storage like in your case, you'll probably never need to remove the panel, so does the long-term durability matter?
However, I asked both at a local skilled building supply store, as well as with specialists, and if buying in large quantities, I could quickly get screws at a good price, often a better variant than deck screws, so do check around if you want better quality.
I'm not a screw nerd, but Bauhaus themselves should be able to answer on the size you want.
