Hi,
I am about to start the project of building a wardrobe section in the living room. It may sound a bit odd, but it will probably turn out fine. The problem is that I don't have space for regular doors, they get in the way. So the solution seems to be sliding doors, and there will be 4 of them, 2 pairs. They will be narrow doors, 2 of them are only 350 wide, and the others are 500, so there is no standard solution, and I'll have to come up with something myself.
My current idea is to custom order a 25-30 mm MDF board and then cut out about a 120 mm wide groove, about 1200 long, to route and inset a window glass. Then the edge will be covered with a laser-cut stainless steel plate. Now to the question. I am currently searching for carriages and tracks for these doors, but I quickly discovered that they are quite expensive. So, is there anyone here who knows where to turn if you don't want to shell out 3000 pix just for tracks and carriages? Grateful for any tips!
I am about to start the project of building a wardrobe section in the living room. It may sound a bit odd, but it will probably turn out fine. The problem is that I don't have space for regular doors, they get in the way. So the solution seems to be sliding doors, and there will be 4 of them, 2 pairs. They will be narrow doors, 2 of them are only 350 wide, and the others are 500, so there is no standard solution, and I'll have to come up with something myself.
My current idea is to custom order a 25-30 mm MDF board and then cut out about a 120 mm wide groove, about 1200 long, to route and inset a window glass. Then the edge will be covered with a laser-cut stainless steel plate. Now to the question. I am currently searching for carriages and tracks for these doors, but I quickly discovered that they are quite expensive. So, is there anyone here who knows where to turn if you don't want to shell out 3000 pix just for tracks and carriages? Grateful for any tips!
I also want to know this. I emailed the major hardware stores (bauhaus, K-rauta, Hornbach), but they all just replied that I should come in to talk about it. No one wanted to provide information and prices via email. Is it because they're afraid of scaring away the customer before they are in the store? Does it really have to cost 3000:- ???
I need three doors (reusing some old panel doors that were in the house).
I need three doors (reusing some old panel doors that were in the house).
Hello!
I bought a cheap one at Bauhaus, I believe, a few years ago when I converted a regular wall and door into a sliding door embedded in the wall.
That track was cheaper than the expensive brand-name ones at the "regular" hardware stores. After a while, it started to run roughly. It seemed like the wheels were worn out. Since everything was built into the wall, which was wallpapered and finished, it was never fixed before I moved out.
I'm going to build some sliding doors in my new house again. This time I will buy the expensive ones. I'm not going to be foolishly economical again. Also, make sure the tracks are a bit over-dimensioned for the weight of your doors.
(If you're planning on making an external sliding door, this is probably less of an issue, since you'll have easier access to repair if it breaks.)
/pinebar
I bought a cheap one at Bauhaus, I believe, a few years ago when I converted a regular wall and door into a sliding door embedded in the wall.
That track was cheaper than the expensive brand-name ones at the "regular" hardware stores. After a while, it started to run roughly. It seemed like the wheels were worn out. Since everything was built into the wall, which was wallpapered and finished, it was never fixed before I moved out.
I'm going to build some sliding doors in my new house again. This time I will buy the expensive ones. I'm not going to be foolishly economical again. Also, make sure the tracks are a bit over-dimensioned for the weight of your doors.
(If you're planning on making an external sliding door, this is probably less of an issue, since you'll have easier access to repair if it breaks.)
/pinebar
Bought my tracks at Flinksjärn.
1150:- ex VAT maybe a little construction discount.
Habos K-50 fittings 2.5-meter tracks and
fittings for 4 doors.
Available to order from K-rauta but their service
went so far that they suggested I call and check the price myself.
So I didn't get a price from them.
Regards Putte
1150:- ex VAT maybe a little construction discount.
Habos K-50 fittings 2.5-meter tracks and
fittings for 4 doors.
Available to order from K-rauta but their service
went so far that they suggested I call and check the price myself.
So I didn't get a price from them.
Regards Putte
Putte, would you like to make a bullet point description of exactly what you used and in what orderByggPutte said:
Picture too if you have
I just called and asked Beijer and they want 9000 kronor for an exterior Swedoor double door. Of which the cost of the doors is about 3500 kronor, the rest is tracks and cornice :eek:
Do they think you're made of money
Ok, Favorite in rerun .
I bought Habos K-50 2.5m tracks, fittings, and tracks for 4 doors.
It was a complete "kit".
Then I bought 10mm MDF at a hardware store, Bauhaus,
which they cut on-site.
I would have done it myself if I had the space.
Since my doors are 65 cm wide, I had to
buy 4 boards.
I told them to cut the boards into 65cm widths.
From the rest, they cut strips of 10 and 15 cm width.
I used the 10 cm pieces as a frame around the boards on
both sides. So the door panels became 30mm.
And some 10 cm pieces for the box at the ceiling together with the 15 cm pieces.
Installed spotlights in the box.
I bought a 20mm chipboard which I used as the
finishing wall on the sliding door wardrobe.
For the doors, I drilled with a 35mm drill if I remember correctly.
And sawed out the rest to fit the wheels.
It was easy to make the doors.
Cut the strips to the length of the door panels and glued
and stapled them, then a short piece in between
so it became like a frame.
The tricky part was fitting the wheels and the top guide bracket.
To get as small a gap as possible between the doors.
But it worked after some measurements and adjustments.
The price for the MDF was around 1200 with cuts, just
the cuts cost 300.
Tracks 1150:-
Then I had some furniture brackets for the wall finishing
plus double-sided tape for the floor track.
I will try to include some pictures.
However, no sanding or painting has been done
in the pictures.
Best Regards, Putte
.I bought Habos K-50 2.5m tracks, fittings, and tracks for 4 doors.
It was a complete "kit".
Then I bought 10mm MDF at a hardware store, Bauhaus
, which they cut on-site.
I would have done it myself if I had the space.
Since my doors are 65 cm wide, I had to
buy 4 boards.
I told them to cut the boards into 65cm widths.
From the rest, they cut strips of 10 and 15 cm width.
I used the 10 cm pieces as a frame around the boards on
both sides. So the door panels became 30mm.
And some 10 cm pieces for the box at the ceiling together with the 15 cm pieces.
Installed spotlights in the box.
I bought a 20mm chipboard which I used as the
finishing wall on the sliding door wardrobe.
For the doors, I drilled with a 35mm drill if I remember correctly.
And sawed out the rest to fit the wheels.
It was easy to make the doors.
Cut the strips to the length of the door panels and glued
and stapled them, then a short piece in between
so it became like a frame.
The tricky part was fitting the wheels and the top guide bracket.
To get as small a gap as possible between the doors.
But it worked after some measurements and adjustments.
The price for the MDF was around 1200 with cuts, just
the cuts cost 300.
Tracks 1150:-
Then I had some furniture brackets for the wall finishing
plus double-sided tape for the floor track.
I will try to include some pictures.
However, no sanding or painting has been done
in the pictures
.Best Regards, Putte
When it became winter and they turned on the heating in the house, the boards "flexed," but it may have been because they are not painted And they haven't been yet because I'm going to rebuild the closet. Either I will move the spotlights to the outside because I can't unpack things at the top due to the fire risk, or I'll buy a light strip and embed it in a groove in the MDF. One more picture.
Best regards, Putte
And they haven't been yet because I'm going to rebuild the closet. Either I will move the spotlights to the outside because I can't unpack things at the top due to the fire risk, or I'll buy a light strip and embed it in a groove in the MDF. One more picture.Best regards, Putte
ByggPutte said:If you live in Stockholm, I can make them for you for only 8995:- incl. VAT
Best regards, Putte
But do YOU think I'm made of money :eek:
What should I do with the five thousand I save?
(I live in Helsingborg.)
A thousand thanks for the description. I hope I or someone with building skills can use this.
The frames are amazingly stylish. You see these frames in many kitchens, like Ikea's Ädel doors.
Is there any particular reason why you put frames on the back? For stability, or?
Regarding the wheels, should they be milled/lowered into the door leaf, or do the wheels sit on the track?
Are there wheels on the floor too, or is the floor trim just to guide the door?
What does picture no. 2 show? Looks like something on the back?
That's right, I need the five as a travel allowance to Helsingborg, so it becomes 9000:- even . I put frames on the back to make the doors a bit thicker and reduce the gap between the panels. Then they become heavier and roll better. I was considering making it so there would be 2 panes (door mirrors) on the panels or alternatively mounting mirror glass inside the frame. But it became just a simple style. I don't know if it's visible, but I just sawed out in the back frame for the wheels. Then I had to mill/drill down a few mm to adjust the gap between the panels. The wheels are mounted on the door panels and guided by the track. They can be adjusted in height. The last pictures show the track on the floor and the box on the ceiling with the chipboard that I made as a wall.
Best regards, Putte
. I put frames on the back to make the doors a bit thicker and reduce the gap between the panels. Then they become heavier and roll better. I was considering making it so there would be 2 panes (door mirrors) on the panels or alternatively mounting mirror glass inside the frame. But it became just a simple style. I don't know if it's visible, but I just sawed out in the back frame for the wheels. Then I had to mill/drill down a few mm to adjust the gap between the panels. The wheels are mounted on the door panels and guided by the track. They can be adjusted in height. The last pictures show the track on the floor and the box on the ceiling with the chipboard that I made as a wall.Best regards, Putte
Thank you so much for the inspiration. Now I have something to ponder !!!
I prefer having the doors hanging as they move very easily, no problems with dirt in the tracks for the wheels, and durable in the long run.
I bought my fittings at Välkommen till Specialbeslag AB
I bought my fittings at Välkommen till Specialbeslag AB
Thanks!!
You have a nice finish on yours.
Made in MDF?
Was the mirror glass expensive?
Smart solution with the floor track.
Placing the guide under the blade instead
of in the floor.
If the surface is a bit uneven, it's easy
to create gaps when it rolls on the floor.
Best regards, Putte
You have a nice finish on yours.
Made in MDF?
Was the mirror glass expensive?
Smart solution with the floor track.
Placing the guide under the blade instead
of in the floor.
If the surface is a bit uneven, it's easy
to create gaps when it rolls on the floor.
Best regards, Putte
The frame is made of pine and joined "half and half" or whatever it's called. A groove is routed on the backside where the mirror glass is placed. Then there's a strip that holds it in place.
I use "regular" 3mm mirror glass which works great. If you have children, you might want to buy a slightly thicker one and the type that doesn't shatter if it breaks. I recall something about 700:-/m2, but with some connections, it was cheaper...
Do you have pictures of your painted ones? I find it difficult to get a perfect finish on MDF... ...but it's been a few years since I last painted MDF, back in the old speaker-building days! ;-)
I use "regular" 3mm mirror glass which works great. If you have children, you might want to buy a slightly thicker one and the type that doesn't shatter if it breaks. I recall something about 700:-/m2, but with some connections, it was cheaper...
Do you have pictures of your painted ones? I find it difficult to get a perfect finish on MDF... ...but it's been a few years since I last painted MDF, back in the old speaker-building days! ;-)