Hello

I want to improve the sealing around the windows in our house.

Basically, the horizontal cross-section of the connection between the frame and the wall looks as follows. The only thing missing is 3. Backing rod and 4. Sealant. Since everything is built and needs to be completed afterwards, I obviously want to demolish as little as possible. The easiest thing should be to loosen the trim board from the outside, remove the insulation (caulking), and somehow create the same function that a backing rod and sealant would have, i.e., a vapor-tight seal connecting the vapor barrier to the frame. You must then be able to insert this from the outside, which is why I'm considering either a sealant or a vapor-tight expanding tape. It's not just a few millimeters gap, rather 10 sometimes 20 mm.

Cross-section diagram of window and wall connection showing components like frame, insulation, and missing caulk and backing rod for improved sealing.
 
An image from outside a river and from inside helps. Swell bands are good but only some are diffusion-tight.
 
Matti_75 Matti_75 said:
A picture from outside the stream and from inside would help. Swellable tape is good but only some are diffusion-tight.
Plastered niche on the inside, wood around on the outside. Sheet metal above and below the window.
 
  • Window with plastered interior niche, surrounded by wood exterior, with metal above and below, overlooking a garden.
  • Gypsum niche inside with wooden framing outside; metal above and below the window.
Outside seems the easiest to attack from but the hardest to do it from.
 
Are you going to add soft sealant and backing rod at the top and bottom of the window as well? You will probably get a good result by opening up from the inside. It might be doable from the outside too, but tricky to get the sealing right.
 
A
A Aneda said:
Plastered niche on the inside, wood around the outside. Metal above and below the window.
Hi,

What is the reason you want to tear it up for the sake of a soft joint?
 
  • Like
J Vos
  • Laddar…
Centano Centano said:
Are you going to supplement with soft sealant and backing rod at the top and bottom edges of the window as well? You'll likely get a good result by opening up from the inside. It might be doable from the outside too, but it's tricky to get the sealing right.
I'm only after the function of sealing; the seal won't be visible if you do it from the outside.
 
Rejäl said:
Hello,

What is the reason for wanting to tear up for a mjukfogsskull?
To get it right and tight.
 
A Aneda said:
I'm only interested in the function of density, the joint won't be visible if it's done from the outside.
Is it leaking air or water?
 
What you can do from the outside is to replace the mineral wool with foam, it becomes airtight.
 
J J Vos said:
Is it leaking air or water?
Negative pressure in the house tends to draw in both
 
A
A Aneda said:
I'm only interested in the functionality of sealing, the joint won't be visible if done from the outside.
Ok, but you are unlikely to achieve a 100% seal from the outside because it's hard to see the diffusion barrier from that side, and if you don't get it completely sealed, the idea falls apart.
If you want it sealed, you need to do it from the inside, even if it means a lot more work.
Personally, I would ignore the absence of soft sealant.
 
I understand that it's the density you are aiming for and think it's easiest to ensure from the inside. It might be possible to access from the outside with an extra long nozzle for the soft sealant.
 
Karl-Ove Qvarfordt Karl-Ove Qvarfordt said:
What you can do from the outside is replace the mineral wool with foam sealant, it will be airtight.
Sounds easiest. Any disadvantages with foam sealant? Feels like it has a bad reputation for some reason.
 
A
A Aneda said:
Negative pressure in the house tends to draw in both
If it draws in air then it's poorly insulated..
 
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.