I have spent a whole weekend now, and no matter what I do, the calculation becomes invalid. Is there a mistake in the program or am I missing something?
The house is 5.5m wide and should have a framework at 45 degrees. Currently, there are no load-bearing walls inside the house.
Best regards, Kristian
The house is 5.5m wide and should have a framework at 45 degrees. Currently, there are no load-bearing walls inside the house.
Best regards, Kristian
I can add that regardless of whether they were frameworks or regular rafters, it made no difference, it still resulted in invalid calculations.
Either it is a splice close to the corner
nail joint is not sufficient, etc.
Either it is a splice close to the corner
nail joint is not sufficient, etc.
Anyone who got this program to work or is it just a scam?
No matter what you do, the calculation is wrong. Knot too close to splice, timber must be spliced, increase current timber widths and larger nailing plates in the assortment.
Doesn't matter what type of truss I choose.
No matter what you do, the calculation is wrong. Knot too close to splice, timber must be spliced, increase current timber widths and larger nailing plates in the assortment.
Doesn't matter what type of truss I choose.
Member
· Stockholms Län
· 702 posts
I've only tried the program a few times, and if I remember correctly, it worked. Take a screenshot, and maybe someone can help.
I don't have it installed on this computer.
But I'll try to take a look at it over the weekend.
Have you chosen where the wood should be spliced? I remember having problems myself when I forgot to specify this ...
But I'll try to take a look at it over the weekend.
Have you chosen where the wood should be spliced? I remember having problems myself when I forgot to specify this ...
If it's the program I think it is, then it's a calculation template for MS-DOS on a floppy disk. Really old stuff 
. Maybe your computer is too modern? I've used the program quite a bit myself and get understandable instructions as long as I input everything requested in the form.
Try to ignore the roof angle and use the standard with a roof angle of 27 degrees. Each degree of increase up to 45% reinforces the structure.
You probably need to look at "open frame with middle support" to get a calculation for the span of 5.5m. This is likely because Bjerkling assumed that standard timber isn't longer than 5.4m, and therefore a joint is needed on the underframe. Then, a completely open frame becomes unreasonable. Upgrade to class 30 timber and you should get the template to accept the question.
If you buy laminated beams or 6-meter scaffolding plank, you'll maintain the nail plate and nail count at the ridge and eaves junction. You can ignore the joint and support.
The underframe is likely to feel a bit springy to walk on, but doubling up with an additional beam between each truss and cross-bracing should sort it out. If it's an Attefallshus you're building, you won't have to design a framing monstrosity to meet unnecessarily large strength requirements. Trusses according to the Truss Book should work fine, and a 5.5 meter floor is also fine in practical reality as long as you don't think you can have a disco up there with an old-fashioned gramophone without the needle skipping.
Best regards, Findus
. Maybe your computer is too modern? I've used the program quite a bit myself and get understandable instructions as long as I input everything requested in the form.Try to ignore the roof angle and use the standard with a roof angle of 27 degrees. Each degree of increase up to 45% reinforces the structure.
You probably need to look at "open frame with middle support" to get a calculation for the span of 5.5m. This is likely because Bjerkling assumed that standard timber isn't longer than 5.4m, and therefore a joint is needed on the underframe. Then, a completely open frame becomes unreasonable. Upgrade to class 30 timber and you should get the template to accept the question.
If you buy laminated beams or 6-meter scaffolding plank, you'll maintain the nail plate and nail count at the ridge and eaves junction. You can ignore the joint and support.
The underframe is likely to feel a bit springy to walk on, but doubling up with an additional beam between each truss and cross-bracing should sort it out. If it's an Attefallshus you're building, you won't have to design a framing monstrosity to meet unnecessarily large strength requirements. Trusses according to the Truss Book should work fine, and a 5.5 meter floor is also fine in practical reality as long as you don't think you can have a disco up there with an old-fashioned gramophone without the needle skipping.
Best regards, Findus
Thank you for all the answers.
After some trial and error, I finally got it right. Reinstalled the program a few times, and almost never encountered any issues except for the "warning - timber should be spliced," but other than that, it works.
Unfortunately, the trusses aren't completely 100% as the house is slightly narrower. I vaguely remember it being 5.5m inside, but it might be a bit wider in reality since it's framed on the inside with a new interior wall.
The big question is the lack of load-bearing interior walls and how much it affects the future upper floor...
After some trial and error, I finally got it right. Reinstalled the program a few times, and almost never encountered any issues except for the "warning - timber should be spliced," but other than that, it works.
Unfortunately, the trusses aren't completely 100% as the house is slightly narrower. I vaguely remember it being 5.5m inside, but it might be a bit wider in reality since it's framed on the inside with a new interior wall.
The big question is the lack of load-bearing interior walls and how much it affects the future upper floor...
The house is not an attefall but a typical Skånelänga. Just over 5.5m wide and 23m long, it should try to be somewhat modern while retaining its charm. After all, it is a Skånelänga no matter what.
Raising an old thread as it feels relevant.
I have used the program several times without issues.
As recently as a month ago, it worked flawlessly, but now I get "spikplåtsdimensioneringen ej godkänd" on ALL calculations.
I have tried all four plate manufacturers, both 1.5 and 2.0 in thickness, as well as both standard and extended range.
I have reinstalled it and also installed it on another computer with the same result.
I have used the program several times without issues.
As recently as a month ago, it worked flawlessly, but now I get "spikplåtsdimensioneringen ej godkänd" on ALL calculations.
I have tried all four plate manufacturers, both 1.5 and 2.0 in thickness, as well as both standard and extended range.
I have reinstalled it and also installed it on another computer with the same result.
I have the exact same problem... have not found any solution yet.D duell said:
I have exactly the same problem. A shame!D duell said:
Bumping the thread since I have encountered the same problem with my program. However, I discovered that if you set back the date on the computer to before the problem occurred, like around 2016, the program works again.
//Patrik
//Patrik