I'm not quite following how you mean. My bookshelf will have side panels that the shelves are attached to. How are you thinking with a bracket and how would you make it? Just a regular L that supports the shelf in the middle?Milkshaken said:
The thing is, I didn't plan to have a back on the shelf, so the wall will be visible, which is a plastered brick wall. It's tricky to precisely place brackets as I will certainly hit right at the edge between the brick and mortar. The rule of life's perversity, or what's it called?
If you're not going to have a backside, I wonder how you're going to screw together a couple of particle boards on the short side? Are you going to use the same solution that Ikea uses?
If you had used MDF, it would be possible to screw them together right at the short side.
If you had used MDF, it would be possible to screw them together right at the short side.
Use "the sagulator" to see how much deflection you get with different materials, thickness, depth, and load.
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
Good thought! Do you mean that Ikea's solution with pegs in predrilled holes doesn't work so well with MDF? I haven't thought that far yet. Fixed shelves become more stable, but not flexible.TheStills said:
I might think that a few shelves will be fixed for durability's sake and some will be movable.
You can make them triangular, L-shaped, in a traditional style, or however you want to cut them out to look..... Have you never seen a window sill bracket from the side? I certainly don't recommend an L shape.... As it will be the weakest......nimhed said:
No, I didn't say that. I said that nailing and screwing on the edge of a chipboard is really difficult unless you use those special pegs that IKEA has. But they cost as well, and you approach the cost of an MDF. Everything that works for chipboard works for MDF, but you can use simple screws to assemble MDF. You might want the wooden dowels in both cases.nimhed said:
Ok, I understand what you mean, but I don't really think it's that difficult to screw into particle board if you pre-drill first. And I have to do that regardless of whether I use particle board or MDF.TheStills said:
But it's still strongly leaning towards MDF.
I say without hesitation MDF...
There's nothing in favor of particle board in such cases.
Sure, MDF costs a little extra, but it's worth every additional penny!
If you want a painted, smooth surface, particle board is worthless as you'll get some fiber raising and have to putty the entire board (after priming, so there's an extra priming after that) to achieve a somewhat smooth/porous-free surface.
I have built a custom closet in the bedroom entirely of MDF - side panels, partitions, sliding doors. Side panels in 19mm and partitions/sliding doors in 16mm. I've also built a couple of kitchen cabinets and a few other things, once you've started with MDF you won't go back to anything else.
But as mentioned earlier, be sure to pre-drill and countersink for all screws - MDF gives no slack like regular wood and "pushes out" the material - that is, if you drive a screw into a short end without pre-drilling, you'll get a bump on both sides of the board. That behavior isn't unique to MDF, but it's very noticeable.
Another plus with MDF is that it is dimensionally stable, meaning it doesn't swell/shrink with changing humidity and retains its shape. Unlike, for example, particle board, which moves quite a bit.
And a nice way to avoid sagging shelves is to place a small strip at the front/under the shelf and place, for example, a light strip behind it.
A nice detail in the shelf that also adds functionality. LED strip is a good choice.
There's nothing in favor of particle board in such cases.
Sure, MDF costs a little extra, but it's worth every additional penny!
If you want a painted, smooth surface, particle board is worthless as you'll get some fiber raising and have to putty the entire board (after priming, so there's an extra priming after that) to achieve a somewhat smooth/porous-free surface.
I have built a custom closet in the bedroom entirely of MDF - side panels, partitions, sliding doors. Side panels in 19mm and partitions/sliding doors in 16mm. I've also built a couple of kitchen cabinets and a few other things, once you've started with MDF you won't go back to anything else.
But as mentioned earlier, be sure to pre-drill and countersink for all screws - MDF gives no slack like regular wood and "pushes out" the material - that is, if you drive a screw into a short end without pre-drilling, you'll get a bump on both sides of the board. That behavior isn't unique to MDF, but it's very noticeable.
Another plus with MDF is that it is dimensionally stable, meaning it doesn't swell/shrink with changing humidity and retains its shape. Unlike, for example, particle board, which moves quite a bit.
And a nice way to avoid sagging shelves is to place a small strip at the front/under the shelf and place, for example, a light strip behind it.
A nice detail in the shelf that also adds functionality. LED strip is a good choice.
Yes, one more thing regarding the price of MDF. Byggmax is actually quite expensive for MDF, if you have a Beijer nearby, check there, they have the lowest price I've found (so far at least). 19mm MDF costs 157kr/sqm at Byggmax, at Beijer 131. And if you have an account there, I assume you'll get some discount on that as well. www.beijerbygg.se, they have a decent product catalog there with prices.
My experience is that both MDF and particleboard sag when used as shelves. They look straight and nice at first, but after a few years, they droop. Look at all the old Billy shelves with books, for example. I think that about 60 cm with 19 mm is the maximum shelf length if you want it to stay straight even after a couple of years.