Hello!
I'm not planning to use plastic behind the panels in my small shed that will be partially/periodically heated. The usage might change in the future to a dog house/chicken coop/storage.
Yeah, the usage will probably change, but the building is insulated.
No plastic, I guess?
I'm not planning to use plastic behind the panels in my small shed that will be partially/periodically heated. The usage might change in the future to a dog house/chicken coop/storage.
Yeah, the usage will probably change, but the building is insulated.
No plastic, I guess?
Is there ångbroms fabric if you want something in between?
doesn't the gips brake as well?
no one who has built similar ones with varying uses?
That is why manufacturers recommend steam brake fabric for cottages and garages.
vapor barrier a 25 meter roll costs 3000:- :eek:
http://www.fresks.se/sortiment/tatskikt-tejp-tatningslist/plast-byggfolie/855154
43:- per m2
more expensive than osb
expensive as hell to put it mildly
http://www.fresks.se/sortiment/tatskikt-tejp-tatningslist/plast-byggfolie/855154
43:- per m2
more expensive than osb
expensive as hell to put it mildly
Yep, all too expensive. Some people here on the forum have used regular vindduk. But whether it's a fully adequate solution, I don't know. It's not as tight as ångbroms.
Byggmax has a cheaper 17kr per m2 for the large one.
https://www.byggmax.se/tak/takpapp/underlagstak
https://www.byggmax.se/tak/takpapp/underlagstak
But search here on the forum and you'll find more info about unplasticized garages. But be prepared for a lot of talking/opinions about whether or not to use plastic/vapor barriers.
byggmax does not have in store....
Gypsum board itself is quite vapor-permeable. It is primarily the paint on the boards that, together with the board, can achieve roughly the same vapor resistance as a vapor retarder. It is impossible to know the total value reached with the construction, but in practice it will be something in this range.
If the vapor pressure inside the shed is greater than outside, water vapor is pushed out in/through the walls, and plastic or a vapor retarder can be beneficial. If it is cold inside the shed or there is no "production" of moisture, there will be no vapor pressure and vapor migration to manage. A person "produces" 1 liter of water per day just by being in the building, we exhale 1 kg of water vapor per day (a little over).
Thin walls are generally much less sensitive; they reach moisture equilibrium with the environment much faster and thus dry out quickly when conditions permit.
If the vapor pressure inside the shed is greater than outside, water vapor is pushed out in/through the walls, and plastic or a vapor retarder can be beneficial. If it is cold inside the shed or there is no "production" of moisture, there will be no vapor pressure and vapor migration to manage. A person "produces" 1 liter of water per day just by being in the building, we exhale 1 kg of water vapor per day (a little over).
Thin walls are generally much less sensitive; they reach moisture equilibrium with the environment much faster and thus dry out quickly when conditions permit.
In terms of diffusion, wind barrier is almost completely open. But it stops air convection.OXYD said:
Convection is the mechanism most capable of carrying large amounts of water vapor into the construction, so it can be a good idea to seal leaky walls and constructions with wind weave if it is the simplest way.
Good answer Mikael_l. 👍
"Bison Steam Brake works excellently together with Bison Wind Shield and also with Bison DiffRoof. This creates a condition where the inner fabric is more than 5 times as tight as the outer fabric on the wall. In the ceiling, you get a condition where the inner fabric is more than 10 times as tight as the outer fabric. This is in accordance with guidelines that advocate these specific conditions."
"Bison Steam Brake works excellently together with Bison Wind Shield and also with Bison DiffRoof. This creates a condition where the inner fabric is more than 5 times as tight as the outer fabric on the wall. In the ceiling, you get a condition where the inner fabric is more than 10 times as tight as the outer fabric. This is in accordance with guidelines that advocate these specific conditions."
the walls are 95mm
the ceiling 145mm
maybe I'll put a wind barrier inside as well =)
the ceiling 145mm
maybe I'll put a wind barrier inside as well =)
there will be plastic under the roof insulation too, we thought.
then the roof will look like this from the inside
gypsum
sparse panel 20mm
plastic
trusses 170mm (with 145mm insulation and a top 25mm air gap = 170mm)
underlayment/walkable felt, unfortunately diffusion-tight as we saw after the roof was installed
batten 38mm
roof sheet tp20
so there will be 2 layers of diffusion-tight in the roof... with an air gap under the upper layer...
believe in this construction anyway
then the roof will look like this from the inside
gypsum
sparse panel 20mm
plastic
trusses 170mm (with 145mm insulation and a top 25mm air gap = 170mm)
underlayment/walkable felt, unfortunately diffusion-tight as we saw after the roof was installed
batten 38mm
roof sheet tp20
so there will be 2 layers of diffusion-tight in the roof... with an air gap under the upper layer...
believe in this construction anyway