Paneling together with skirting board and door lining

[caril]

That's exactly what you do. Buy a planed board in a suitable dimension, e.g., 22x120, and then cut out the strips you need from it. I usually do it in the table saw; it's easiest. After that, I usually first glue the rebate strip into the frame and attach it with the nail gun (t-brad nail) and then glue-nail the trim into the strip. Then it stays forever.

Hmm, there must be a better way than buying a table saw

Why not use the material of the bead board as a smyg? It has the right thickness. Just need to tidy up the cut. Diluted wood glue (PVA) a few times with sanding in between, and it will look nice.
It might even be possible to lay out the bead board all the way to where the smyg would go and place the trim on top?

Tip for TS: If you're considering filling the gaps that appear between the skirting board and the bead's edge on the bead board; avoid it. It "looks" completely wrong and wasn't something done back in the days when bead board was widely used.

That could certainly be done, but since the bead board is made of MDF, I'm doubtful about how well it would turn out. In that case, you almost have to fill in with filler or caulking, and even then, there's a risk it will crumble over the years considering all the movement that can occur. It feels safer with some form of timber to cover it with. But I do like the simplicity of your solution, it is quite appealing indeed.

 

[caril]

[image][image]
[image]
Here, the trim, floor, and top molding were installed first and then the beadboard was fitted in, because having the transition on the backside of all the trim around doors and windows extending out to the beadboard would have looked odd; it would have sat 30mm+ on top of the beadboard.

And when you have a top molding and then come to a door trim and lay the bottom part on 15mm beadboard, you get a backside of the trim above the top molding that is between 40-50mm thick. I'd install trim and moldings first any day of the week rather than have a trim sticking out into the room that you hit your head on later. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Looks really nice 👍 For me, this seems like a good alternative. However, there will be quite a bit of sawing on the beadboard to make it fit the wall. Considering whether to finesse with the paneling or if I should move the finesse to the small edging instead and have the paneling under all the carpentry.

Our paneling is, as mentioned, only 6mm thick and made of MDF, so it might be a bit tricky to cut patterns in to make it fit all the carpentry.

 

[Mazen]

Finish the MDF panel with a pine moulding for a natural trim against the frame and casing.

It can also be placed behind the baseboard, meaning you set the panel on it and avoid the gap at the bead.

For example..
https://www.panelochlist.se/shop/product/6x21-plh-furu-a?tm=produkter/planhyvlat/furu

 

[caril]

Finish the mdf panel with a pine trim for a natural transition to the frame and casing...

For example..
[link]

That's exactly the trim I'm looking for, but unfortunately, the shipping cost is incredibly high (650 bucks!!!). I've been searching like crazy for a 6mm thick trim to cover this area but have only found down to 8mm at the larger hardware stores. I might have to check with my local lumber store. That trim would have solved all my problems, thanks for the suggestion!

 

[MathiasS]

Hmm must be a better way than buying a table saw

It is the only sensible way to produce such a molding. If you don't have one, you may have to rent one for a couple of hundred. Or go with one of the other solutions discussed in the thread.

 

[Mazen]

That is exactly the trim I am looking for, however incredibly expensive shipping (650 bucks!!!). I have been searching like crazy for a 6mm thick trim to cover this area but have only found it down to 8mm at the larger hardware stores. I might have to check with my local lumberyard. That trim would have solved all my problems, thanks for the suggestion!

An alternative is to check with a local carpentry if they can slice down some strips of planed pine for you..

 

[useless]

So it is difficult to find a molding that is narrow enough to cover the small gap.

There are plenty of moldings that are 6 mm thick. Search for "foglist".

https://www.xlbygg.se/produkt/foglist-furu-obh-6x21mm-2/

 

[caril]

There are plenty of strips that are 6 mm thick. Search for "foglist".

[link]

Yes the only thing I don't like about them is that they have a rebate that creates a gap against the door frame. Though it might be a good thing as you have some surface to caulk and fill in.

 

[Mazen]

Yes the only thing I don't like about them is that they have a rebate that creates a gap against the door frame. Although maybe that's a good thing because you have some space to seal and fill again.

Hm, no it's the other side, the one with the beveled edge that you place on the frame, then the trim a few mm in after the beveling.
It creates an extra profiling between the trim and the frame ..

 

[useless]

Exactly. Just move the lining 5 mm. Or you can saw your own strip/find a planed strip in a store or with a neighbor with a saw.

 

[Johan Gunverth]

...
Of course, you could do that, but since the beadboard is made of MDF, I'm doubtful about how well it will hold up. In that case, you almost have to fill it in with filler or construction kit, and even then there's a risk it will crumble over the years considering all the movement that can occur. It feels safer to cover with some form of timber. But I do like the simplicity of your solution; it's definitely appealing.

No risk with MDF in this situation. Nowadays, people are installing entire jambs and even trims of MDF without any problems. Surface-treat the cut edges of the MDF with diluted 1:2 white glue (wood glue), sand, and then apply cover paint. It holds just as well and is used in lacquered furniture. Everything depends on the standard you want. Some have knot-free beadboard painted with the right linseed oil paint, while others use pre-painted MDF paneling. I'm hopelessly stuck in the do-it-right-to-the-death swamp myself but cheat with polyurethane paint. 🤓😉

 

[Småbrukaren]

heel lining

Heel linings are usually completely smooth. Doesn't match the time period, I would say.

 

[Småbrukaren]

klossen

I want to object to the choice of skurkloss, they are too wide for the trim. There are skurkloss for 70mm trim, is it possible to fit 90mm.

 

[Testarn]

Heel mouldings are usually completely smooth. Doesn't fit chronologically, I would say.

If you check the thread starter, it looks like they have a smooth frame, and in my first post about heel mouldings, I wrote "if you want" about smooth frames...
I also don't like smooth frames with wood paneling, but I would never buy the profiled MDF board... but it's not my house. 😁

 

[Småbrukaren]

You're actually right about that. I think it's a strange choice. TS has skirting with a quarter round profile. It is also available as casing.

Casing Funkis white 15x69mm S 0502-Y (NOTE! Random lengths 2.4-4.8m) https://www.hornbach.se/p/foder-funkis-vit-15x69mm-s-0502-y-obs-fallande-langder-2-4-4-8m/8543437/