Have excavated the floor in the log house and now plan to start framing a new floor structure with 45x195 but have hit a snag on how to smartly set it up for the best load capacity etc... how would you do it? Tear out everything or build on the existing joists? There is a strong beam in the middle that is quite crooked... Replace it with a 45x195 and stone in the middle?
The entire space is 4x6 meters with a partition at 2 meters where there was a door, do you think the remains of the doorpost have any major load-bearing function, the beam they stand on is very thin..? there are three layers of log beams left in the ceiling...
Attaching some pictures and grateful for tips on how to proceed...
No thoughts on this?
It's basically just a beam that's securely attached to the wall and untouched, the long one in the middle (about 6m), crooked and probably too high if I need room for a new floor on top.
The beam next to it was previously cut and hangs in the air on one side, with part of the stairs resting on the other part.
The crossbeam is heavily cut and probably shouldn't carry any direct loads...
How would you place the new joists? I have several sturdy boulders to support if needed...
if you are not a rabiat byggnadsvårdare and don't intend to keep any part of the wall where the door was, I would have removed everything old and framed up new completely. You'll probably need a support beam in the middle which you'll have to prop up, I suppose. Additionally, you should consider whether the old wall is carrying anything that needs to be supported in some way. Also, if the timret above holds the exterior walls together, you can't just saw away everything indiscriminately.
if you are not a radical preservationist and do not intend to keep anything of the wall where the door was, I would have removed everything old and framed it up entirely new. You probably need a support beam in the middle that you have to prop up, I suppose. Additionally, you need to consider if the old wall supports anything so you have to brace it in some way. Also, consider if the timber above holds the outer walls together so you don't just saw everything away recklessly.
No, there is no question of preservation...
The wall where the door was will become a new wall with a new door 2/3 of the way, and the remaining part under the stairs will become a small toilet.
That looks good! Frame up new as suggested. It looks dry and nice, but how did you plan for the crawl space in terms of moisture management? Now that you are insulating the floor joists, it will be much colder in the crawl space. A setup for moisture problems. A minimum is plastic on the ground. How did you plan the ventilation of the crawl space? Since you have such a low height, it's good to think about how you will do this before you frame up too much. It will be difficult to access afterwards.
That looks good! Frame it up new as suggested. It looks dry and fine, but how are you thinking further with the crawl space from a moisture management standpoint? Now that you're insulating the floor joists, it's going to get much colder in the crawl space. A setup for moisture problems. The minimum is plastic on the ground. How did you plan for ventilating the crawl space? Because you have such low height, it's good to think about how you're going to do this before you frame everything up too much. It will be difficult to access afterwards.
Well, I'm tearing everything out and framing new. The plan is now to put a frame around the entire room with 45X145 and replace the long one in the middle with two nailed together 45X195 and a stone in the middle for some stability, then set 2-meter joists in joist hangers from the middle beam out to the frame on the walls. Or are there smarter/better ways to frame it up?
Regarding the moisture, the ground is enormously dry, so I hope it will work with construction plastic on the ground and then a couple of ventilation holes in the foundation and about 20 cm height between the plastic and joists...
The house hasn't had a chimney to heat the foundation during the past 50 years and has at times been both unheated and heated alternately (including kiosk operations), so it seems like the conditions are good since it looked great when I ripped out the old, but I could be wrong...
Yes, it certainly looks dry now which is good, but that will change once you insulate the floor. I recommend leaving space for an inspection hatch somewhere. Adding a sensor for a hygrometer doesn't hurt. Then you'll have a good sense of how the crawl space is doing.
Should be age-resistant plastic, but you probably know that.
Normally, you would want an underlying beam on the length, but you don't have space for that. I would like to have a few more supports on your center beam. I know it's a bit more work, but cast some square concrete slabs about 40x40 and prop up from there (don't forget the joint tape).
I've basically torn out everything and framed the new structure, an inspection hatch sounds like a good idea, I'll put one under the stairs. Age-resistant plastic purchased, so check on that. Considering the casting... I agree that it's safer with multiple supports, but it would be nice to skip the casting step. I have several large flat stones left over, shouldn't it be just as stable if I lay a few of these under the central beam instead of casting? The stones are at least 40x40x15cm.
I would pour support for the floor structure. It's definitely worth the effort. Remember to make plenty of ventilation holes, ideally one on each side of every junction (should provide good airflow), and a few more along each wall. It's not just ground moisture you need to consider. This time of year, moisture also comes from the air. Make sure there is good ventilation between different spaces in the foundation, if there are any. Don't forget the sill paper between concrete and wood.
How should I pour in the best way? How big, how deep? Preparatory work? Type of concrete? I have no experience with pouring, so please guide me.
Should you cast fastenings for the studs or are you thinking of a flat surface to place them on?
Build a mold or casting tube?
why bother with casting? It has been on stone since it was built and the ground looks compact and nice so I would just lay out some garden paving slabs and prop up with a few millimeters under tension.
why complicate things with casting? It's been standing on stones since it was built, and the ground looks compact and nice, so I would just lay out some garden slabs and prop up a few millimeters under tension.
Yes, I'm in two minds about how I should do it... I've tried digging a bit and it's sand all the way through, and I'm wondering what I gain from casting versus stones/slabs?
At the same time, I'm a bit worried that I'll burden the sill/foundation too much if I don't relieve it sufficiently, previously the floor was on the ground and held the house together, whereas now it will hang on the sill. It would be foolish to take a shortcut and have the house settle... but if it doesn't get stronger with casting and stones suffice, it would be nice...
If the house has stood there for 100+ years, you probably don't need to worry about it settling. Furthermore, it seems to be on good ground. Place 50x50 slabs where support is needed.
If you only need a couple of supports for the beam in the middle, placing concrete slabs (as others have recommended) is sufficient. When I recommended casting, I thought you would have support for the entire joist structure, including along the walls. I'll read more carefully next time.
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