Would you choose plywood as wall panels if you had to choose between MDF and plywood?
Are there different types of plywood and which one should be used?
Are there different types of plywood and which one should be used?
Plywood comes in many different shapes and types. There is the most expensive variant called K-plyfa where K stands for construction... it is layered laminated, which makes it very rigid and can be used for load-bearing constructions where one desires rigidity... I have installed it in my entire garage as it can support "heavy" shelves, etc...
Then there is regular plyfa, which is cheaper but you lose the rigidity and it is a bit more porous, but still fully functional in walls, preferably with gypsum on top.
I probably wouldn’t use MDF as a wall construction due to its moisture sensitivity, weight, and price... however, it is good to use if you want to build, for example, recessed shelves or furniture constructions..
...
I am no professional though... but my vote goes to PLYFA!!!
/
M
d^_^b
Then there is regular plyfa, which is cheaper but you lose the rigidity and it is a bit more porous, but still fully functional in walls, preferably with gypsum on top.
I probably wouldn’t use MDF as a wall construction due to its moisture sensitivity, weight, and price... however, it is good to use if you want to build, for example, recessed shelves or furniture constructions..
...I am no professional though
... but my vote goes to PLYFA!!!/
M
d^_^b
Will use them as wall panels inside the house, they will be primed and then puttied before wallpaper.
-will replace a few masonite panels
-will replace a few masonite panels
Why not plaster?
because there is only outdoor plasterboard available in the correct thickness, which no one, not even the manufacturers, dares to advise me to use indoors. (the thickness of the hardboard is 9.8mm)
The painter grumbled about this too but admitted that it was possible, after all, all older houses contained such boards and it's possible to get a finish on them as well.
The painter grumbled about this too but admitted that it was possible, after all, all older houses contained such boards and it's possible to get a finish on them as well.
Member
· Norrbotten
· 3 390 posts
If thickness is crucial, why not plywood 4 mm + 6 mm ROT plaster = 10 mm. You won't get much hanging capability for heavier shelves with that solution, but it might work.
Some have written that such thin layers do not turn out well.
Also - why should I complicate things? This plaster obsession "just because." My whole house is both painted and wallpapered, along with many other houses that consist of "living" walls. It works, so I could just buy a 10mm MDF or plywood.
-according to an old discussion, people wrote that plywood was better because screws didn't crack the boards in the same way as with the others. Are there other differences to consider?
Also - why should I complicate things? This plaster obsession "just because." My whole house is both painted and wallpapered, along with many other houses that consist of "living" walls. It works, so I could just buy a 10mm MDF or plywood.
-according to an old discussion, people wrote that plywood was better because screws didn't crack the boards in the same way as with the others. Are there other differences to consider?
You don't have MDF on the wall.
Plyfa or OSB, on the other hand, is used to improve the hanging capability (avoiding plugs), however, these are usually always complemented with plasterboard.
Particleboard is available in 10mm and can be wallpapered.
Plyfa or OSB, on the other hand, is used to improve the hanging capability (avoiding plugs), however, these are usually always complemented with plasterboard.
Particleboard is available in 10mm and can be wallpapered.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 024 posts
Yrrol, I HAVE a "spånplattehus" but have grown tired of how difficult it is to get wallpaper to stick (you have to apply paste to both the wall and the wallpaper) so I have initiated a "sanitation" and am adding gypsum board to the particle board OR recessing plywood between the studs and then adding gypsum on that. It IS so much nicer to then apply some sort of surface layer on the gypsum.
I understand your painter who grumbles. One might wonder why gypsum is used
Protte
I understand your painter who grumbles. One might wonder why gypsum is used
Protte
9.8mm masonite.... plus some wallpaper and gypsum...
then I should buy 9mm plywood and prime and fill in the rest, instead of tempting fate with a 10mm board that costs twice as much - I assume...
And with the wallpaper, it's not exactly that the wallpaper is attached to the board, it's attached to the filler, and the filler doesn't change depending on what it's attached to, right? In other words, the wallpaper should adhere just as well regardless of the board since it's the filler the wallpaper goes on...
then I should buy 9mm plywood and prime and fill in the rest, instead of tempting fate with a 10mm board that costs twice as much - I assume...
And with the wallpaper, it's not exactly that the wallpaper is attached to the board, it's attached to the filler, and the filler doesn't change depending on what it's attached to, right? In other words, the wallpaper should adhere just as well regardless of the board since it's the filler the wallpaper goes on...
4 mm + 6 mm ROT gypsum = 10 mm...
Such thin layers... does the plywood serve any function at all then? And you had to glue between the sheets, right?
Isn't there a risk that 6mm gypsum easily breaks apart?
Such thin layers... does the plywood serve any function at all then? And you had to glue between the sheets, right?
Isn't there a risk that 6mm gypsum easily breaks apart?
Just make sure, for God's sake, that you don't use an oil-tempered board for the surface layer. I would go with particle board in your situation. Use screws with a "finish nail head" to make the filling more enjoyable.
We have particle boards throughout the ground floor and once you learn how the material behaves with the seasons, it becomes easier to wallpaper. One thing is to ALWAYS join the wallpaper at the board joints, otherwise it will crack or bubble. If you choose to paint the wall, regular acrylic sealant works well for joint filling. When wallpapering, it looks best to NOT fill the joints at all.
We have particle boards throughout the ground floor and once you learn how the material behaves with the seasons, it becomes easier to wallpaper. One thing is to ALWAYS join the wallpaper at the board joints, otherwise it will crack or bubble. If you choose to paint the wall, regular acrylic sealant works well for joint filling. When wallpapering, it looks best to NOT fill the joints at all.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 024 posts
That's exactly why I apply plaster.
Protte
Protte