76,695 views ·
30 replies
77k views
30 replies
Material in the subfloor panel?
Do you need to glue the foam plastic in the rebate?
Hello!
I have used oil-hardened masonite. It has worked perfectly. Since I have an old house with greater stud spacing than cc-60, I had to buy 240x120 cm boards and cut them myself. Otherwise, you can use trossbottenboard. Ready-made boards with standard dimensions. I contacted Masonite to check if it was okay to use oil-hardened masonite and got the response that it works excellently. If you cross-lay them, they are guaranteed to hold up for walking on!!! Previously, I only had sapwood as trossbotten. It has worked for 78 years without any issues, but if you're going to insulate the floor, it might be just as well to replace it.
Regards / Niclas
I have used oil-hardened masonite. It has worked perfectly. Since I have an old house with greater stud spacing than cc-60, I had to buy 240x120 cm boards and cut them myself. Otherwise, you can use trossbottenboard. Ready-made boards with standard dimensions. I contacted Masonite to check if it was okay to use oil-hardened masonite and got the response that it works excellently. If you cross-lay them, they are guaranteed to hold up for walking on!!! Previously, I only had sapwood as trossbotten. It has worked for 78 years without any issues, but if you're going to insulate the floor, it might be just as well to replace it.
Regards / Niclas
The facade panel is good too, yes.. But I definitely don't think it's easier to get the seams tight. You noticed that I wrote "tongue and groove," right.. It's super easy to get perfect seams with it..
Then you have to weigh the risk of a fire starting down in an enclosed crawl space against the benefit of less moisture in the flooring.. If you look at what causes the most damage in crawl spaces, I guess moisture is more frequently occurring than fire.
Sure, moisture isn't as deadly as a fire can be, but on the other hand, I think the risk of fire down in the foundation feels quite small..
Then you have to weigh the risk of a fire starting down in an enclosed crawl space against the benefit of less moisture in the flooring.. If you look at what causes the most damage in crawl spaces, I guess moisture is more frequently occurring than fire.
Sure, moisture isn't as deadly as a fire can be, but on the other hand, I think the risk of fire down in the foundation feels quite small..
I didn't say that the fire should start down in the crawl space (unless you have the misfortune of something like a dehumidifier exploding). A fire can very well start in the joist or elsewhere, and then the cell plastic is toxic. The National Board of Housing, Building and Planning has warned about cell plastic in houses. Even if the boards are rebated, they must fit exactly, the slightest gap and a cold draft is a fact. Do not mix apples and pears. Do not mislead builders to use the wrong material!
/ Building Engineer
/ Building Engineer
What do you think my interest is in trying to "mislead" builders...???bo said:I haven't said that the fire should start down in the crawl space (unless you're unlucky enough for, say, a dehumidifier to explode). A fire can very well start in the joist or somewhere else, and then the foam is toxic. The National Board of Housing, Building and Planning has warned about foam in houses. Even if the boards are rebated, they must fit exactly, as the slightest gap will result in a draught. Don't mix apples and oranges. Don't mislead builders into using the wrong material!
/ Construction Engineer
Read up on these links..
Or are you implying there's a big misleading conspiracy going on...
http://www.viivilla.se/sitemap/sitemap/blindbotten?v=2
http://www.thermisol.se/pdf/golv_isoleralatt_okt02.pdf#search="blindbotten cellplast"
http://www.traguiden.se/templates/PopUp/Common.asp?id=2281
I think there are quite a few engineers also on the magazine/manufacturer/industry organization in the links above.
I almost question whether you're a construction engineer since you talk about thermal bridges arising from the slightest gap in the rebate... Uh, the foam is laid across the joist which is insulated with perhaps 200-250mm of insulation, not much risk for draught then, right... Besides, there aren't any gaps in the seams...
Construction veteran
· Åland
· 2 076 posts
This is a very old thread but I'm wondering if the mice like the expanded polystyrene boards (S80)?
Foam rubber is something they nibble on anyway
Old resurrected thread but the mouse question is interesting and I know the answer to it.
Mice LOVE styrofoam. There's no better material to build tunnels in. Ants too, by the way. However, mice also burrow around eagerly in regular insulation. Polyurethane foam (2-component) is not nearly as interesting to them.
Mice LOVE styrofoam. There's no better material to build tunnels in. Ants too, by the way. However, mice also burrow around eagerly in regular insulation. Polyurethane foam (2-component) is not nearly as interesting to them.
I definitely "vote" for Byggmax trossbottenskiva, which is made of fiber cement. It is easy to install and break into reasonable sizes if needed. It initially smells a bit of lye and seems strangely soft. But then it hardens in the outdoor air and becomes as hard as a roof tile. The only downside is that it's hard to find in the store and often out of stock. Then you have to take masonite instead, which is tried and works just as well. Neither of the materials is particularly flammable. Best regards; PerOF
Read this page to get a lot of good information about different solutions. http://www.lfs-web.se/olampliga krypgrundsatgarder.htm
Cellplast or other moisture-proof solutions on the underside of the entire joist system, for example, enclose the floor joists and do not allow moisture to escape from them, creating a risk structure.
Cellplast or other moisture-proof solutions on the underside of the entire joist system, for example, enclose the floor joists and do not allow moisture to escape from them, creating a risk structure.
Construction veteran
· Åland
· 2 076 posts
Fibercement boardP PerOF said:I "vote" definitely for Byggmax trossbottenskiva, which is made of fibercement. It is easy to install and break off into suitable sizes if needed. It smells a bit like lye at first. And seems strangely soft. But then it cures in outdoor air, and becomes as hard as a roof tile. The only downside is that it's hard to find in the store and is often out of stock. Then you have to take masonite instead which is tried and works just as well. Neither material is particularly flammable. Best regards; PerOF
Fibercement board hardly burns, wood fiber board burns explosively!P PerOF said:I "vote" definitely for Byggmax trossbottenskiva, which is made of fibercement. It is easy to install and break off into suitable sizes if needed. It smells a bit like lye at first. And seems strangely soft. But then it cures in outdoor air, and becomes as hard as a roof tile. The only downside is that it's hard to find in the store and is often out of stock. Then you have to take masonite instead which is tried and works just as well. Neither material is particularly flammable. Best regards; PerOF