I have now acquired 16m ceiling molding made of polystyrene that is 50x50 and has the profile: taklist3.gif

Now I am considering a few things:

1. Should I paint the moldings in place or on the floor?

2. I have painted the ceiling with white ceiling paint (matte). Should I paint the moldings with the ceiling paint or molding paint (water-based with gloss 40)?

3. Should I have straight joints or mitered (i.e., when joining in the middle of the wall)?

Anything else to keep in mind?

I should add that I plan to mount these with latex sealant.


Grateful for answers!!
 
No one??
:-?
 
Absolutely. 8-)
1. A coating before + a coating after installation.
2. ::) Matter of taste, I would have chosen the ceiling color.
3. Try with straight seams.
 
I usually splice straight and then putty and sand. Paint once before and then one time on site, as I said...
 
OK! Thanks for the response.

Then it's just a matter of testing, one coat with ceiling paint and straight edges.
(as I thought, but one has been wrong before...)
8-)

All other small tips on the subject are always welcome! :)
 
Does it really hold with latex? Otherwise, I would recommend construction adhesive. Latex also dries incredibly fast, so you have to be quick in that case.
/CC
 
C
Latexfog holds more than well, the moldings weigh practically nothing. The drying time is definitely not a problem either. I don't understand where you've gotten "incredibly fast" from???

If you plan to use something else, keep in mind that it's appropriate for it to be paintable and that it's easy to wipe off smudges and spills.
 
chris47 said:
Does it really hold with latex? Otherwise, I would recommend construction adhesive. Latex also dries incredibly fast, so you have to be quick in that case.
/CC
Water-based latex sealant was recommended by the manufacturer as well as by the paint store where I bought the moldings.
 
I have never installed polystyrene moldings, but when using latex you have to be quick to smooth it with your finger, otherwise it crumbles immediately. I use, of course, Byggmax and other cheap variants. Maybe it makes a difference?
/CC
 
C
I used Beckers latexfog. No problems with the sausages with it anyway.
Squeeze out a good bead (or two if the surface is wide) on the attachment surfaces of the strip, press the strip firmly into place and then immediately use a damp dishcloth to remove excess and smooth out the joint.
Keep in mind that a fair amount of sealant may be needed.

P.S. Do not fill the joints with latexfog as it sinks in a bit when it dries, making it very difficult to get a neat finish. Instead, use latexspackel. Apply it twice and sand with fine sandpaper after each application so the joints become invisible.
 
taking the opportunity to ask, how much do these polystyrene moldings cost per meter? Considering whether or not to put up ceiling moldings.
 
I bought the Sonja list in a pack of 2x2m, and I think the price per meter ended up somewhere around 37kr/m. (Purchased at Färgtemabutik)
 
C
lobbysleeper said:
taking the opportunity to ask, how much do these polystyrene moldings cost per meter? I'm considering whether to put up ceiling moldings or not.
They vary quite a bit in price depending on the size/profile you choose.
A notch more luxurious than polystyrene are the polyurethane moldings which are significantly more expensive, but which, at least in my opinion, give a completely superior result.
 
Be careful with which adhesive you choose; solvent-based products can dissolve your expensive moldings... latex sealant is no problem to use.
 
Now the moldings are in place! :)

They were mounted with latex sealant (from ÖB).
Usage: almost 1 tube for 15 m of molding and I've used latex on:
* Both attachment surfaces.
* In all joints (including tidying up the miter joint in 2 rounds)
* A bead towards the ceiling
I haven't had any problems with the latex bunching up or not sticking, it's a great material to work with if you use plenty of Yes+water on your finger when you're "tidying up" the seam.

The moldings were easy to cut in the miter box, the only thing I would have done differently in hindsight is to bevel the edges of the straight joints... but, oh well. >:(
 
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