Cut metal with miter saw

csam11 · 18 Jan 2011 at 6:24 PM

Hello. Has anyone cut metal with a Kapex 120? I'm thinking about gutters and downpipes. With the right blade and low speed, it shouldn't be a problem, right?

AndersS · 18 Jan 2011 at 6:35 PM

It is not made for metal.
There are better machines and tools for that, which are designed for it.

Västerhaninge 17 · 19 Jan 2011 at 8:59 AM

Have a miter saw bought at Coopbygg with a 255 mm blade (starting to get shaky now) which I managed to mount a metal cutting disc in

The biggest problem is that the holes in the cutting disc/blade are different

Eld · 19 Jan 2011 at 11:52 PM

Aluminum, copper, and similar metals can be cut with a wood blade, but the blade might not fare well if you cut downspouts and gutters made of steel sheet.

MaZtoR · 20 Jan 2011 at 7:50 PM

Feels damn unnecessary to cut gutters and pipes with a miter saw. As a tinsmith, I always use a hacksaw myself. It doesn't even take 1 minute to cut a gutter.

http://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bågsåg

csam11 · 20 Jan 2011 at 8:40 PM

I agree with you MaZtoR, I've cut lots with a hacksaw but with a newly developed tennis elbow http://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tennisarmbåge and about 70 details to cut, one gets creative. I've talked with the Festool salesperson and he claims that the saw can handle it, but it will be difficult to find a blade. When I built a drainage system, it was gold to cut all the underground pipes with the miter saw, thought it would be just as practical with gutters and pipes.

ToA · 20 Jan 2011 at 8:49 PM

Keep in mind that if it is a lacquered sheet, heat can cause the paint to peel. 70 details to cut sounds like a lot, big house or many buildings on the property?

csam11 · 20 Jan 2011 at 8:57 PM

There are some large buildings but the number is quickly increasing at: 3-4 pipe fittings per drop, 26 drops plus gutters (probably more than 70, definitely tedious to cut by hand). I wonder if the heat will be a problem. Definitely a problem with the angle grinder.

ToA · 20 Jan 2011 at 9:01 PM

How heat-sensitive the paint is depends on the type. There are those where the binder starts to release already at 60 degrees up to over 100 degrees. What brand is it on the gutters/pipes?

ToA · 20 Jan 2011 at 9:08 PM

here is ruukki's product info:

http://www.ruukki.se/www/materials....File/CFI00.000SE01.2009_Pural.pdf?openElement

csam11 · 20 Jan 2011 at 9:37 PM

Borga, now everything is in place but it would be interesting for next time.

prototypen · 20 Jan 2011 at 9:41 PM

Jigsaw with a metal blade for those with tennis elbow.

Protte

csam11 · 20 Jan 2011 at 9:53 PM

Tried both jigsaw and reciprocating saw but see the convenience in using the Kapex. Fence, laser, perpendicular,... Sounds lovely, doesn't it.

xl15 · 28 Jan 2011 at 11:51 AM

When I built the chassis for my car, I used a cheap saw from Jula and fitted a cutting disc for angle grinders. It worked, but the pipes got hot. 25x25x2 square pipes. Now, you don't have to grind as long on a gutter, but there are better blades.

Stefan Bengtsson · 28 Jan 2011 at 12:21 PM

xl15 said:
When I built the chassis for my car, I used a cheap saw from Jula and fitted it with a cut-off wheel for angle grinders. It worked, but the pipes got hot. 25x25x2 square tubes. Now you don't have to grind as long on a gutter, but there are better blades.

Off topic:

Do you have more pictures of that project that you would like to show us?